Fills dry or in water bath?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

don't come up to cave country then, it's SOP up there. The difference there is that the tank monkeys blow the valve and fill whip off, fully connect and start filling, but the valve is usually above the water
Which is the correct way. You'd probably find me dead in a gay bordello before you found me in cave country.
 
Why? Just to make sure, we're talking about putting the cylinder in a tank of water to remove the heat of compression... right
It's the easiest way to get water in the tank by mistake. And it's not necessary. In fact, it actually increases the stress across the tank wall, not that the cylinder can't take it, but still. So I guess the question is, do you add compressive stress across the tank wall, or overfill 300 PSI so that the cylinder cools to rated pressure? With the added chance of introduction of water to the cylinder, I choose to hot fill. I do not get condemn those who choose to water fill, but I don't shop there either.
 
It's the easiest way to get water in the tank by mistake.

Well, it does take someone who cares and knows how to use an air nozzle. That is how I learned to do fills. I'm not convinced about the metallurgical stress issue though... unless your tub is filled with LN2 (liquid Nitrogen for other readers). We used a lot of LN2 for reclaiming Helium on sat systems... fun stuff.
 
Opinions vary greatly on the topic. My perspective is I do not rush anything when it comes to diving. It is inherently expensive when you start to do a lot of diving. (that doesn't mean it has to be, but it can quickly become) I purchased a multitude of tanks years ago. The collection is somewhere in the 40 tank range currently. It allows me to dive multiple tanks in a week without having to worry about hot fills or wet fills. I just dive them and drop them off for a fill. I go home and pull some others and dive those. I always have a steady rotation going at the local shop and the fill logs will show that. To each their own though. It works for me. I have different tanks for different purposes, somewhat like shoes to a woman. Double fabers for freshwater, double worthingtons for salt, single pst's for loaner to a buddy, and almost every tank size you could imagine. From aluminum to steel, high and low pressure, and 6 to 120 cuft.

Now thinking about it, it gets out of hand quickly. But, you can't put a price on the enjoyment of diving. Btw I am local to you and if you want to borrow a tank to see if its weight characteristics and what not are suitable before you purchase something let me know. To save money on tanks, do not buy brand new. Browse Craigslist. I picked up a 1yr old set of double faber 100's last year for $300. There are deals out there you just need to be patient.
 
Which is the correct way. You'd probably find me dead in a gay bordello before you found me in cave country.

Well, you do have a beard....
 
Not to pour gas on this fire.... the profile picture might agree. Just picture a bearded man with flowers showing up to the local bordello.
In my horned viking helm and tutu?
Viking.jpg
 
LMFAO!!!!
 
My fill set up. Constant water flow enter at the bottom at water hose connection and overflows at the top. Impossible for valve or whip to be submerged.

IMG_2178.JPG
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

Back
Top Bottom