Faber Tanks?

[KGNickl]

So for $850 or so I can get doubles worthington HP tank that is hot dip galvanized which I'm more familiar with.

Now for $600 I can get Faber HP tanks that are zinc coated w/ some type of white primer and paint on them. Now my question revolves around the coating when when it comes to hydro and places strip off the paint and punch a new hydro stamp do you just paint over it? Losing the nice coating allowing rust to begin more easily if scratched, etc...? I'm almost wondering if it not better after 5+ years to strip the outside coating from these tanks and use the cold galvanize spray or roller stuff?

It just seems with hot dip galvanized tanks the hydro is just stamped over the coating and 20, 40, etc.. years later the coating is still great. But I just cant imagine how these white coated tanks will hold up in 5+ year with scratches and paint removed for the hydro stamps? On Fabers site they build it up like the hot dipped tanks are a safety hazard (heat weakens...) and the painted coating is a better choice (not really believing it)?

So what does everyone think? What is your experience for those who have steel faber tanks like this?

 

[Ken abucs]

It's an epoxy based paint, and really tough. A couple of my buddies have Fabers that are three years old, and they still look like new. These tanks have have there share of bumps and knocks along the way, the paint is really tough.

Fabers claims their spray galvanizing method is better than hot dip galvanized. See Faber scuba diving cylinders But it doesn't protect as well so they need to add the paint.

My problem with Faber is they are too heavy. I much prefer the weight of my PST tanks. Check out Scuba Cylinder Specification Chart from Huron Scuba, Ann Arbor Michigan for more info.

Ken

 

[Stu S.]

I have had five of these. The oldest one is painted, and needs touch-up from time to time. The newer ones have some sort of epoxy paint or coating and really take a beating. Every now and then, I'll have to use an "appliance touch-up" bottle on a newer one but that is no great effort.

The hydro guy usually puts some sort of paint over the stamp, but if it has to be white, I'd put that "range and fridge" paint over it.

My two FX-100's were $250 each. I really like my pal's Worthingtons, but they were over $400.

Happy diving.

 

[PhilEllis]

So for $850 or so I can get doubles worthington HP tank that is hot dip galvanized which I'm more familiar with.

Now for $600 I can get Faber HP tanks that are zinc coated w/ some type of white primer and paint on them. Now my question revolves around the coating when when it comes to hydro and places strip off the paint and punch a new hydro stamp do you just paint over it? Losing the nice coating allowing rust to begin more easily if scratched, etc...? I'm almost wondering if it not better after 5+ years to strip the outside coating from these tanks and use the cold galvanize spray or roller stuff?

It just seems with hot dip galvanized tanks the hydro is just stamped over the coating and 20, 40, etc.. years later the coating is still great. But I just cant imagine how these white coated tanks will hold up in 5+ year with scratches and paint removed for the hydro stamps? On Fabers site they build it up like the hot dipped tanks are a safety hazard (heat weakens...) and the painted coating is a better choice (not really believing it)?

So what does everyone think? What is your experience for those who have steel faber tanks like this?

Hi Kyle. While I only sell one brand, I think both brands will likely hold up well to careful use. If you are satisfied with the bands and manifolds included in both offers, neither could be considered a mistake.

I do find it strange that Faber attempts to cast "safety" concerns on the HDG process. They word that statement very carefully citing "some studies". I would like to see those studies. They understand the qualification process well and are certainly aware that an HDG cylinders passes every test to which their painted cylinder is exposed. It would also be interesting to see a comparative study on the environmental impacts of the entire manufacturing process of both cylinders.

In the end, no matter what your choice, you will have a good set of dual cylinders.

Phil Ellis

 

[Ken abucs]

I missed the fact that you'll be using doubles. You're likely to end up really negative with Fabers. You didn't mention what size you're looking for, but a pair of 120s with bands and manifold will be well over 100lbs. You can save nearly 20 lbs with Worthington.

Also I just found this on the OMS web site:
Ocean Management Systems Safety News http://www.OMSdive.com

 

[Scared Silly]

Actually, it all depends on which cylinders one is using whether they are too negative. The Faber 85s are more buoyant than the Worthingtons. Check the specs from each site:

XS Scuba

Blue Steel

 

[mike_s]

I missed the fact that you'll be using doubles. You're likely to end up really negative with Fabers. You didn't mention what size you're looking for, but a pair of 120s with bands and manifold will be well over 100lbs. You can save nearly 20 lbs with Worthington.

I've heard this argument before and it's not 100% correct.

The "older" Faber tanks (the 3180psi +10%) are really negative.

The newer FX series tanks are similar to the Worthingtons in buoyancy compared to the older Fabers.......

 

[pescador775]

scuba.com sells the Faber 100 for $315 and the Worthington 100 for $345, each with valve. I'm not an expert on pricing tanks or twin tank blocks, just saying.

 

[mike_s]

scuba.com sells the Faber 100 for $315 and the Worthington 100 for $345, each with valve. I'm not an expert on pricing tanks or twin tank blocks, just saying.

Divers Direct puts the Faber (Blue Steel) FX100's on sale every couple months for $249 to $259.

Plus you can get other bonus codes to work sometimes for 10-15% off or free shipping.

 

[Clammy]

So for $850 or so I can get doubles worthington HP tank that is hot dip galvanized which I'm more familiar with.

Now for $600 I can get Faber HP tanks that are zinc coated w/ some type of white primer and paint on them. Now my question revolves around the coating when when it comes to hydro and places strip off the paint and punch a new hydro stamp do you just paint over it? Losing the nice coating allowing rust to begin more easily if scratched, etc...? I'm almost wondering if it not better after 5+ years to strip the outside coating from these tanks and use the cold galvanize spray or roller stuff?

It just seems with hot dip galvanized tanks the hydro is just stamped over the coating and 20, 40, etc.. years later the coating is still great. But I just cant imagine how these white coated tanks will hold up in 5+ year with scratches and paint removed for the hydro stamps? On Fabers site they build it up like the hot dipped tanks are a safety hazard (heat weakens...) and the painted coating is a better choice (not really believing it)?

So what does everyone think? What is your experience for those who have steel faber tanks like this?

This isn't really answering your question, but hot dip galvanizing is also a zinc coating, just a different process with uh.. different results.. but still zinc!! ha ha ha. This helps not at all!