Epoxy/vinyl for DIY weights

[lucca brassi]

In our company we use plasti dip (green) for protective of electrodes by galvanization with Nickel.
There is so much agressive acids that I belive should work in salt water too , but lead must be clean (sanding).

I have see a page witha liqid silicone for making models....(I have weights for apnea in silicone rubber)
YouTube - Liquid Silicone Rubber

these a little too soft , but silicone rubber for making statues in plaster is right stuff

http://www.artmolds.com/category60.cfm

 

[*dave*]

12219 Plasti-Dip International
Performix 12219 Plasti-Dip is a flexible, synthetic rubber coating which exhibits excellent moisture, acid, alkaline, and abrasion resistance. It comes in a larger sized, fully resealable Plasti-Dip 22 oz can. It is perfect for outdoor applications. U.V. specific formula is also available, which is recommended for outdoor use

You can find it on Amazon.com

I use this on my fins and it works quite well. I use MEK to clean the surface and thin it out a bit to brush on, but the weights could be dipped.

 

[HenrikBP]

I use this on my fins and it works quite well. I use MEK to clean the surface and thin it out a bit to brush on

How long has the dip held up in the picture you posted?

Henrik

 

[jswantek]

I've been using the Plasti-dip on my weights, but I use the spray-on aerosol cans of it. Four coats, with adequate drying time between coats, and it wears like iron. Mine have held up for three years of solid use. Both Home Depot and Lowe's carry it, in with the rest of the spray paints.

 

[alphakry]

sorry to bump such an old thread, but as I'm looking into doing something similar with my shop's weights - i'm wondering how everyone's solutions have been holding up and if there are any new ones out there.

I have about 300lb in weights, across 4 different sizes - so color coating would aid the organization by our staff tremendously. most weights see 4 dives a day, 365 days a year - so I fear plastidip wouldn't be a viable solution due to it's durability and the fact that we'll be shedding this plastic into the ocean, a big no-no!

for the time being, i am trying out colored zipties, made extra secure by dabbing some superglue into the hole after cutting it to size. but ideally i'd love a reliable rubber/vinyl coating solution - should one exist.

 

[St John the Diver]

Why bother? I've got weights that my dad and myself cast in the mid 60's that look now like they looked then. Lead is lead.

If you really want to color code them (why?) just hit them with some bright spray paint. Repeat every few decades.

 

[JamesBon92007]

I probably already said this in this old thread but Plastidip did not hold up well for me. I have settled on spray paint, preferably black because it almost always matches. Very quick and easy to touch up. I just get any ol' quick-dry spray paint because the weights get dinged no matter what. I suppose if you want to color code the weights spray paint is a good option. The biggest problem I see with that is some people will want to color-coordinate and the colors they want will be the wrong weight

Why bother? If only to help reduce exposure to lead.

 

[Rred]

"The problem is that the weights tend to move around on the belt so some kind on non-slip somethingorother would be good." Solved that a long time ago. Set up your belt, then drill a small hole right through the belt and weight at each end (first and last weight on each side) Screw in one short wide self-tapping screw, like a license plate screw.
As long as you don't need to keep changing weight, it's simple, cheap, and strong.

Most people don't realize that lead quickly forms an oxide coat which makes for poor adhesion. If you're painting a lead yacht keel, the advice is to clean it with steel wool or similar material immediately before painting, and if you are applying an epoxy coating, to even scrub (lightly) the lead right through the epoxy, ensuring there's a direct bond with no oxide.

I'd expect Liquid Lectric or any similar plastic would work, including Plastidip, if the lead was oxide-free. There are a batch of new "vinyl" spray paints in the hardware stores now, those also should work, same need to minimize oxide problems.

 

[alphakry]

Spray paint will just chip off and fall into the ocean - something we absolutely wouldn't want to do. Not to mention the amount of weights and the use they see (as stated above) - it wouldn't last weeks, let alone "decades"

As to why I want to bother - it helps organization, significantly. We may have 40-50 customers on the morning trips alone - so the need to efficiently get their kit together including proper weighting is key.

I'll give the steel wool scrub and vinyl spray a chance - though I do fear it's durability over time. But it's gotta be better then a zip tie!

 

[St John the Diver]

Spray paint will just chip off and fall into the ocean - something we absolutely wouldn't want to do. Not to mention the amount of weights and the use they see (as stated above) - it wouldn't last weeks, let alone "decades"

Pop yourself onto any SoCal dive boat and methinks you'll find out it works just fine...

Theory is only void insofar as it reflects reality.

I tend towards the fluorescent green, yellow, and orange spray paint myself.

The fact that the original poster was talking about casting into tin cans tells me he has never done this before. Try that once and let me know how it works. Hint: you'll never get the lead outta the can.

I've cast many tons of lead in my time (we used to cast 1000 pounds at a time behind the dive shop). Good aluminum molds from Global, well heated, and a good melt pot are needed. Get yourself a good 5 pound mold and learn how to 1/4, 1/2, and full-fill it for the different weights you need. If you can't sort them by eye... Get better glasses.

For what you've got now? Trust me dude: this works and has worked for years. Spot paint them with florescent paint if you want to make it easy for customers. "Yeah you: grab two green ones for me will ya?" I'm not guessing here.

But what do I know. Financed starting my dive shop by casting recovered fishing weights into scuba lead and selling it outta the back of my car. Made enough to start my own shop. Our spot painted lead still is sortable after ten years of daily use.

Don't want them to slip? Put a half twist in the webbing after you slide the belt thru one slot and stick it thru the other slot. It'll never move.

Plastic dip? No need.





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