Electric vests inside drysuits

[_Ralph]

So does anyone have any experience with heated vests inside drysuits? How much layering are you able to reduce with heated vests? Thanks.

I have the SANTI and the DUI systems.

With the SANTI, I add the 200g heated vest (and gloves) to my existing thermals (400g) for longer dives, or dives colder than 40F

The DUI, its a full suit, but I do have to add an external layer (vest plus a thin 'jacket' and 'pants') for it to come back to ~400g (more on the torso)

I wouldn't reduce layers, if for any reason the heated part doesn't work (battery, failure, flooding), you are now at a serious disadvantage, unless I was going somewhere where the water temperature was at least 20F above what I'm used to


_R

 

[Gareth J]

I wouldn't reduce layers, if for any reason the heated part doesn't work (battery, failure, flooding), you are now at a serious disadvantage, unless I was going somewhere where the water temperature was at least 20F above what I'm used to


_R

Ralph has hit the nail on the head, I wouldn't reduce my layering. I've seen vest failure due to human failure (failure to charge the battery), and a mechanical failure of the connector.

In short, heated vests are a great bonus, but;

-Make sure you can disconnect the vest in the event of a fault (External battery and control).
-Make sure you have sufficient layers if the vest fails to operate.
-Be aware that a failure of the vest, and the fact that you are cold has an impact on your ability to off gas effectively.

Gareth

 

[tbone1004]

thanks for clarification on the blueheat. The 6v vests may not put out enough heat depending on what you're diving in though and tend to be less efficient than the 12v vests. Good to know that they at least hold their heat through the dive though

 

[TrimixToo]

thanks for clarification on the blueheat. The 6v vests may not put out enough heat depending on what you're diving in though and tend to be less efficient than the 12v vests. Good to know that they at least hold their heat through the dive though

The BH has been warm enough to be comfortable for 90 minutes in 38-42F water for the three of us who have them and dive together. I put it under a 4E Halo 3D until this year. The other diver has been using a Weezle Extreme for those dives (I got one this year). But of course the BH is not a vest, but an entire undergarment.

I'd love to try out the Santi and UWLD systems some time and compare, but I rarely have my BH above its middle setting unless I forget to turn it on in time and get chilled. I know one of the others usually just heats his gloves and boots; I don't know what the third diver does.

I am curious about why a 12V system would be more efficient. Can you elaborate? Watts are watts, so are you talking about voltage regulation losses? I would think that 6V systems would be safer even if less efficient, though.

 

[West.Coast.Diver]

I am looking at getting a Santi heated vest - would be interested in people's experiences with them. What battery did you choose and why? Did you use the Santi ThermoValve, the dry suit adapter, or something else? Did you get the gloves? Were they worthwhile or a bit gimmicky?

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

I have the Thermolution heated vest which is also designed to be used in a wetsuit,so flooding is not a cause for concern. I turn it on after I start to feel cold, usually just at its lowest setting. It has made diving much more pleasant.

 

[Chris H]

I used a BTS/typhoon vest for several years. It was warm but it didn't breathe at all, and more often than not it left my base layer drenched in sweat. I recently bought a Tourmaster Synergy 2.0 Motorcycle vest and it works well and breathes. It was $99. I used both with a Light Monkey 15Ah canister. I wear Patagonia mid weight base layer, the vest, 4th Element Xerotherm, and then Halo 3D. The Great Lakes aren't warm very often.

 

[CAPTAIN SINBAD]

So as someone who is totally alien to heating vest technology can someone explain ...

a) How does the external control system work? Would the drysuit need an additional seal tight outlet for the cord to go inside the suit while battery pack is situation outside it? Can anyone please send me a link?

b) Why are motor bike vests discouraged? Other than external on and off switch, is there anything else that they lack?

 

[tbone1004]

a. if they have external control it is voltage control. I.e. 12v is 100%, 10v is 80%, etc etc. This is only done in a few systems and most are just on or off.

they go through the suit with a few different options for ports. Most common is a combo inflator/bulkhead. This is one that Bobby helped design and is quite good.
Drysuit Inflation Valve
you can also have what amounts to a spacer block for the bulkhead and your existing inflator goes on top of it.
Combo Bulkhead connector for Q-vest - E/O version

there is also one that goes in as standalone which required punching another hole in your suit.

b. no reason to discourage them so long as they can be turned off externally as their construction is almost identical to that of the "diving" vests that are sold by various companies. Only so many ways to make these things and since none of them are truly waterproof for full saltwater use *including thermolution*, so may as well just use what works.

this is a standard motorcycle vest, but uses patented panels that are much better than the wire and fiber that everyone else is using. The carbon impregnated panels can be cut, slashed, etc. and will continue to work and not short.
Heating Vest

 

[decompression]

Tom, can you explain the deal behind some manufacturers stating wet is ok and the vest you posted is not wet safe.....I know your background so I trust your opinion.