I'm just starting my UW setup with my E-M1 Mk3 AOI housing and Backxcatter MF-2. For those who have been shooting olympus for a while, are there any specific custom settings that you've found helpful or resources you've found helpful?
E-M1 Mk3 settings/setup
- Thread starter hancockks
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I shoot the same setup. The first thing I will tell you is to avoid getting GAS (Gear Acquisition Syndrome). Think about what you want to be shooting and build around that. If you're thinking macro then you'll be looking at the 60mm and/or 30mm macro lens. Rather then getting two ports, you can get the FLP-04, made for the 30mm, and then add a 24mm extension ring when you want to use the 60mm. This will also allow you to use the 12-50, the 14-42 II (not the EZ) and the extension ring can be used with the DLP-06, should you decide to get the Olympus 8mm for wide angle. The DLP-03/04 will let you use the 12-50, the 9-18 and the 12-45 PRO lenses.
As far as custom settings, I set up the AEL/AFL button for back button focusing. The Exposure Compensation button, on the top right, is set up to magnify and the wheel in front of it controls the magnification. I find this especially useful for macro.
I'm still getting used to the camera myself so hopefully I'll find some more settings along the way. On a side note, if you are interested in astrophotography the E-M1.3 does a good job on that too.
As far as custom settings, I set up the AEL/AFL button for back button focusing. The Exposure Compensation button, on the top right, is set up to magnify and the wheel in front of it controls the magnification. I find this especially useful for macro.
I'm still getting used to the camera myself so hopefully I'll find some more settings along the way. On a side note, if you are interested in astrophotography the E-M1.3 does a good job on that too.
Wobbegong_th
Registered
I'm using Oly EM5III with following accessories:
Lens: 7-14, 12-40, 30 Macro, 60 Macro, and a wet dioptor lens (+10, if I recall correctly)
Housing: Ikelite Housing for EM5III, 6in" dome port with extension (for 7-14 and 12-40), Flat port for 30 Macro, Flat port with extension (same one use for wide setup) for 60 Macro
Light: Ikelite DS-161 (about 10yrs old) and DS-162. Connection using Ikelite TTL convertor unit and dual Sync chord.
Tray & Arm: Generic brand that I found on local online shopping store - delivery origin from somewhere in China
I'd usually set camera to M (manual) mode, Speed 1/250 (max sync speed), Aperture f/8. Strobe set to "Fill-in" to make the strobe fired on every shot. Then I set the two Ikelite Strobe on "TTL". Camera flash RC mode to "off". (this is as recommended by Ikelite - if you use fiber optic connection flash setting may be different)
Then I shoot, and may be lower speed if I want more background light, or have wider/smaller aperture to control foreground (strobe) light. ISO typically set to 200.
Also, I'd set AE-L/AF-L butting for "back button focus. compensation button (right-front) to Whitebalance - this is to allow for quick custom whitebalance. I'd do a custom white balance on a sand patch at a couple of depth, stored them separately as custom 1,2,3.
LCD display set "Liveview boost" to on. Turn off the proximity sensor for the EVF (as the back of the housing make the sensor think that it's always at eye-level)
Also, set the arrow pad at the back to allow to use them for shutter/aperture control. (Can't recall what's the function is called) I prefer this as it's easier than turning the knob for the top dial on my housing.
If shooting macro/supermacro, I might adjust flash compensation to lower value.
Lens: 7-14, 12-40, 30 Macro, 60 Macro, and a wet dioptor lens (+10, if I recall correctly)
Housing: Ikelite Housing for EM5III, 6in" dome port with extension (for 7-14 and 12-40), Flat port for 30 Macro, Flat port with extension (same one use for wide setup) for 60 Macro
Light: Ikelite DS-161 (about 10yrs old) and DS-162. Connection using Ikelite TTL convertor unit and dual Sync chord.
Tray & Arm: Generic brand that I found on local online shopping store - delivery origin from somewhere in China
I'd usually set camera to M (manual) mode, Speed 1/250 (max sync speed), Aperture f/8. Strobe set to "Fill-in" to make the strobe fired on every shot. Then I set the two Ikelite Strobe on "TTL". Camera flash RC mode to "off". (this is as recommended by Ikelite - if you use fiber optic connection flash setting may be different)
Then I shoot, and may be lower speed if I want more background light, or have wider/smaller aperture to control foreground (strobe) light. ISO typically set to 200.
Also, I'd set AE-L/AF-L butting for "back button focus. compensation button (right-front) to Whitebalance - this is to allow for quick custom whitebalance. I'd do a custom white balance on a sand patch at a couple of depth, stored them separately as custom 1,2,3.
LCD display set "Liveview boost" to on. Turn off the proximity sensor for the EVF (as the back of the housing make the sensor think that it's always at eye-level)
Also, set the arrow pad at the back to allow to use them for shutter/aperture control. (Can't recall what's the function is called) I prefer this as it's easier than turning the knob for the top dial on my housing.
If shooting macro/supermacro, I might adjust flash compensation to lower value.
OP
Can the E-M1 mk3 do greater than 1/250 sync speed? I tried setting the flash to HSS, but in manual mode and X-Sync settings it's limited to 1/250.
Furnari
Contributor
I believe you need to be shooting with the flash in RC mode to get faster than 1/250. There's another thread from the last couple of days about settings for the OM-1, and someone linked to an old article from Bluewater Photo about setting up the old E-M1. The info there is still useful for the M1mkIII; I went from the M1mkI to the M1mkIII, and now I shoot the OM-1, all set up for underwater with the help of that article. The only significant different underwater between the M1mkIII an OM-1 is subject detect AF.
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