Dust cap left off while soaking Reg

[Sas]

Sounds like you will be able to pass the Zeagles to your grandchildren...

Haha I have had experienced divers tell me that the way they've kept their ancient regs in great condition is running freshwater through the first stage... I don't really want to try this myself but it seems to work for them

Everyone seems to have a different idea. I've never had any problems with my regs so I'll keep doing what I do.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Haha I have had experienced divers tell me that the way they've kept their ancient regs in great condition is running freshwater through the first stage... I don't really want to try this myself but it seems to work for them

Wow!

I guess I'm old fashioned, but I still think water belongs on the outside, and clean, dry air (and properly-lubed o-rings) on the inside of the first stage....

Best wishes.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

That's alot of caveats. My method is 100% guaranteed to work...

Heck, my life seems like a series of caveats Scuba is the only simple thing I do.

But yeah, not soaking should insure you'll never flood it.

For what it is worth regarding soaking a Mk25: The local dive instructor/shop owner/ reg tech soaks his after each day of diving.... which probably equals five or six "soakings" a week...

Best wishes.

 

[Sas]

I guess I'm old fashioned, but I still think water belongs on the outside, and clean, dry air (and properly-lubed o-rings) on the inside of the first stage....

Yea... me too

 

[Hatul]

Take it in to get it serviced. Fresh water intrusion is not a huge deal, you have not done any damage, but if any water remains in the 1st stage gets blasted into the SPG it will likely ruin it (the SPG). Other than that, fresh water intrusion may just shorten the interval between services (by removing some lubrication from internal o-rings).

A "field repair" is to remove all hoses and port plugs, put the regulator on a tank, and run air through it (tank air is super-dry, will quickly dry the first stage), then replace all hoses and again put the first stage on a tank, and purge the 2nd stage(s) to get water out of those hoses.... then you should be good-to-go until you can get it serviced.

Salt water intrusion = immediate service after the dive.

Fresh water intrusion = ASAP service, after the dive trip /vacation pehaps.... if I knew the water was 100% clean (not a dunk tank on a dive boat), I personally might skip the service after doing the "field repair" (but I do service my own regs, so I'd just keep an eye on it, and if it started to act up would just rebuild it....).

Regarding soaking.... I very respectfully disagree, Valhalla. If the reg has a good dust cap, and the cap is used properly, soaking is the single best thing you can do to keep your regulator (and most gear) happy. The key is making sure the dustcap is on properly (and not to forget to put it on).

Best wishes (and good luck with your reg.... but it should be just fine!)

I keep reading conflicting advice about soaking. My Oceanic manual recommends long soaking. I think the Atomic manual recommends rinsing.

Adam

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

I keep reading conflicting advice about soaking. My Oceanic manual recommends long soaking. I think the Atomic manual recommends rinsing.

Adam

No need to be "conflicted" Do what your reg manufacturer recommends.

I've heard/read (but do not know for sure) that the Atomic 2nd's have a "seat saver" feature that makes unpressurized soaking a no-no (water can pass up the 2nd stage hose if it is not pressurized?).

Best wishes.

 

[knowone]

Pressurized, depressing purges, twisting spg and knobs inc valve. Dislodges possible dislodgables and ensures no water ingestion. Soaking statically precludes mechanical movement and should be reserved for men's underpants.

 

[redacted]

Pressurized, depressing purges, twisting spg and knobs inc valve. Dislodges possible dislodgables and ensures no water ingestion. Soaking statically precludes mechanical movement and should be reserved for men's underpants.

How do you remove salt water from unprotected threads and other areas where the pressures during a dive displace the air and forces salt water to infiltrate? An example would be the yoke/din retainer threads where the o-ring is installed at the end of the retainer below the threads. Another would be the HP hose connection to the SPG where only the HP channel is protected from SW incursion by the spool o-rings. And the device end of any std LP hose connection.

 

[ozziworld]

I have a 23 year old SP MK10/G250 that I soak each time out. I also have AL Conshelf SE2 that is around the same age. Never had any problems reported when I have them serviced.

The Sherwood octopus I have on the MK10/G250 has one of those "seat savers". Not a feature that I would miss at all. It kinda holds the purge button down when in storage to relieve the pressure on the seats. I can see how soaking the regs in this condition is a "no-no" but has never been an issue. I never ever use it.

I can see the point made about the rinse vs. soak. I am a soaker when I have the time and I just rinse the regs when on a live aboard or doing multiple days. but I notice that this tends to result in a lot more visible salt build-up in the nooks and crannies of the regs. Before long term storage - a really good soak is the best thing to make sure slat-build up is minimized.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

Pressurized, depressing purges, twisting spg and knobs inc valve. Dislodges possible dislodgables and ensures no water ingestion. Soaking statically precludes mechanical movement and should be reserved for men's underpants.

Good advice about the underpants.... next spring when it is time to wash mine I'll give it a try!

To soak or not to soak..... a question for our times.

I'm an admitted "soaker", but I'll happily accept that others may not be inclined to "Baptise" their regs.... tolerance of other faiths and belief systems is a virtue, afterall

Best wishes.