Trip Report Dumaguete -Atlantis Resort stay May 2022

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Luko

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Paris, France
# of dives
1000 - 2499
Intro :
Skip to next chapter if you don't like reading or you're not interested with context.
It’s been 3 years I haven’t written a dive report the start of the year might be an opportunity to catch up with 2022 dive trips : Dauin and a few places in Indonesia. Due to different locations, I’ll have to split it in two different parts Phils and Indo.

I was worried I was given enough dry time to rust my diving and UW photo skills during the 2020-21 pandemic when the EU lock down offered quite limited options for traveling, almost none with diving opportunities. In the meantime I traveled countries I wouldn’t even have thought about, visited monasteries in Greece, hiked and had barbecues by -16C (4 F) in snowy Armenia, drank wine in Albania or Bulgaria, did all of these plus some paragliding in Georgia.

Before that early 2020 I won an international photo contest prize which was a stay at Atlantis Dauin, I couldn’t not make it until Philippines opened to tourism. I was getting excited from march 2022 when SEA countries started to lift most of the entry requirements, Phils was one of the first with no mandatory quarantine time. I felt Dauin had the perfect profile for a diving and UW shooting brush up. On the past 8 years I had done 4 trips to Dauin staying and diving with various resort from mid market to upmarket places. It’s a spot in the Philippines I like for its macro opportunities and a kind of laid back atmosphere, much less busy and packed with divers than Bohol/Panglao or Moalboal for instance and less secluded than Anilao... and the best part is that it was a prize Atlantis accepted to postpone until the pandemic was over, I only had to pay for my wife...

Though the flight route choice at the time was more limited from Europe, since both HongKong and Taipei were closed for transfering passengers, hence we had to overnight in Singapore then Manila onwards, and Dumaguete the day after..
Mid May, the entry procedures in Changi were easy peasy, while Manila airport authorities were handling them in a very military way. Passengers had to form lines of two, managed by MPs in uniform, led to waiting rooms for paperwork and vaccine verification. I really thought I was going back in time 30 years ago to my military draft, like an endless nightmare.
Since airlines hadn’t flewn for a long time we expected some operational troubles : the early domestic AirAsia Zest flight from Manila to Dumaguete confirmed our intuition. Just as we flew over the southern tip of Cebu with Dumaguete airport in view, the plane started to make circles over Sumilon for half an hour, the captain announced we should go back and land at Mactan Intl for technical reasons. The plane landed as smoothly as an anvil dropped on the ground then stopped its engines immediately. An hour after, the local engineers decided we were ready to go.

Finally we were transfered to Dauin, greated by Atlantis Resort staff.

On the resort itself :
(skip to next chapter if you're only interested in diving and photos)
At first impression when you enter the resort, Atlantis is nicely appointed along a stone alley going to the beach passing by the restaurant/dive shop along grounds planted with a lush and leafy vegetation which are giving more privacy to the rooms terraces . The dive shop area is spacious and well thought opposite side of the alley to a generous and comfortable camera room on the « dry » side.

Our ground floor garden room -located next to the swimming pool- was comfortable, with a wooden terrace, a huge bathroom and all the appliances necessary for a photographer (power sockets, large table, etc.).

The restaurant is breezy looking out to and 5m away from the beach, the food we had is certainly the best we’ve had in a resort in the Phils (even when compared to Atmosphere resort), for every meal, the chef displays a selection of 3 different starters, mains and desserts you can choose from, generally meat/fish/veggie sort. Since we were few at the time we could ask some « specials » the chef was happy to prepare (like the best gastro Kinilaw I ever tasted). It would take only a day for the staff waitress, barmen or manager to know and call you by your first name. In my experience of all Dauin resorts, I would rate very highly the restaurant and the hotel services.

As a comparison with all the resorts I’ve been in Dauin (Atlantis, Atmosphere, Azure and Mike’s), on the basis of my own satisfaction level grid, I would rate Atlantis Dumaguete best of all 4 for the food , resort/dive service efficiency & staff friendliness, first on a par with Atmosphere for resort installations and rooms, and although I was satisfied, only ranked second in guiding as I would give an edge to Azure for an incredible guide (although Azure’s owner is the ex Atlantis dive manager). Of course neither Atmosphere nor Atlantis are in the same ballperk range as the two other resorts more in the midmarket price zone. You get what you pay for, sometimes it's nice to enjoy the best...

... have to break up the report here for max character number reason... coming next : the diving
 
The Diving in Dauin :

On our arrival, I met my guide for the first house reef intro dive which was scheduled later in the afternoon. I only had to leave my stuff on my room terrace to have it carried to the dive shop (may be a service I was provided because we were only few divers).

This is where I met my fellow divers for the week. I probably was lucky with my timeframe as we were only few divers for the whole week (2 to 4 other photographers at the most, from UK, Argentina or Italy. Coincidentally 3 of us were also photo competition winners of different contests for the same prize at Atlantis resort) plus a small party of 3 californian senior citizens -as they liked to call themselves- back from a Tubbataha liveaboard, and 2 other non diving couples. All of us got along very well, as we knew we had the whole resort for ourselves so could ask for special requests or specific divesites, everytime Atlantis staff would do their best to accomodate our requests.

Atlantis diving package is an « all you can dive » formula, meaning up to 5 dives/day. Personnally, after two years drydocked, it was both a diveskill check and a « health recovery » trip for me, I limited myself to 3 dives/day which anyway was enough (One of the fearmongering physicians I visited wanted to limit me no dive or a maximum of a shallow one per day despite very good effort tests : Well scr** you doc and your fears, I am going very well!). Dives are usually done single tank out on a speedboat, except when going to spots located further south (Two tank dives) or day trips to Apo island on a large wooden Bangka possibily large enough to accomodate more than 20 divers. I personnaly requested a chargeable private guide but I never had more than 3 other divers on my boat, more than often only one diver with her guide (A british photog who was on a mission not to miss a single dive).

Dauin is known for muck diving and small stuff, although the profile of dives varies with the location. One of the closest dive site from Atlantis Resort, also one of the best, is San Miguel, pure Lembeh style flat black sand muck. Its home to a lot of critters golden gobies, crustacea of all sorts, seahorses, small froggies, lots of costasiella nudis on almost every algae.

Ubiquitous costasiella nudi (covered of 'em)


Mini juvenile painted froggie (1cm)


The glutton


Crinoid squat lobster


Golden goby sheltered in an urchin shell



Dauin sites also propose a mix of shallow algae, sandy rubble and small rocks, coral patches sites where you will find as many frogfish, blue ring octopus, crustacea like coleman shrimps or rarer sacoglossian seaslugs (Lobiger, oxynoe..) .

Coleman shrimps


Yawning frogfish


Blue ring octopus portrait


Oxynoe seaslug


Lobiger "crocodile" seaslug


On the southern sites next to Zamboanguita (40 minutes speedboat ride), macro dives have a more white sand/coral patches profile, these dives can be highly productive and quite different than Dauin’s : on one dive 3 flamboyant squids of which two trying to mate, various seahorses, froggies as well.

Flamboyant squid


Pregnant seahorse


Seahorse portrait


Mantis portrait


Next Side trips
 
Apo island and side trips :


On a week time I went out for a daytrip to Apo island which is more about coral slopes and walls. Like I wrote before Atlantis bangka was large and comfy. This is a very nice daytrip even for snorkelers or non divers, although it was forbidden at the time to set foot on land (COVID safety measures), therefore the local lady vendors came aboard from their paddle boat to show Tshirts or sarong. Divewise, I was expecting to find the jackfish shool which is normally cruising the currenty side of Apo, we only saw a glimpse of it in the distance too far out to reach because of the current in the open. Instead I had to point my wide angle lens on loads of turtles and corals in pretty good shape. Visibility was something like 20m, at some point of the dives a moderate current could run along the slope, just enough to look for sheltered patches when trying to get photos.

Bangkas moored in front of Apo island


Apo coral slopes


Apo most famous critter


Apo coral variety


Turtle and fellow diver


I was ever reluctant to participate to the Oslob whaleshark « show », I saw too many chinese snorkelers in yellow jackets lining to the water, expecting a selfie latched to the fin of the big fish or any other nonsense behavior. This time, my other fellow divers from Atlantis were looking for an additional guest so they could have a trip running to Oslob, they managed to convince me to join in with the reason « there were no tourists at all ».
Atlantis arranged the day after an early morning bus trip with a ferry crossing to Oslob, including the snorkeling part. What can I say ? This is more of Disney than nature activity, you’re taken to a file of small boats one of which you must swim around, you get a maximum of half an hour snorkeling with a mix of whale sharks and frozen shrimps thrown by fishermen to attract the giant fish.
While it's true the foreign tourists weren’t there at the time, the local schools also seemed to enjoy the show. Even though it was a fun trip with our group of 5, I’m not sure I would do it again…

Fellow photographer with whale shark


My only shot in Oslob without a snorkeler in the frame :



Hope that wasn't too painful reading.
Will post next reports for 2022 trips in the Indonesia branch. Bear with me for the write up.
 
Great trip report and pictures! I will be there in April. do you remember if the resort offered laundry service or if there was any place close that does laundry?
 
Great trip report and pictures! I will be there in April. do you remember if the resort offered laundry service or if there was any place close that does laundry?
Thanks!
Sorry I can't say, I didn't use any laundry service (I don't have large needs since I'm either in my wetsuit or boardshorts most of the time, I do it myself for what I need & let it dry on the terrace).
Quite jealous.. have a nice stay, April is the perfect time in Dauin for all sorts of juveniles esp. froggies.
 
Great trip report and pictures! I will be there in April. do you remember if the resort offered laundry service or if there was any place close that does laundry?
No need to worry.
Any dive resort would provide such a important but trivial service. It is just the charge that some people found objection to.
April will be hot.
 
Great trip report and pictures! I will be there in April. do you remember if the resort offered laundry service or if there was any place close that does laundry?
I believe the resort did offer laundry. There isn't ANYTHING close by.
 
Thanks for the TR...I hope to be in Dauin in a few months and it helps me plan the trip. Easy to see why you are a photo contest winner 🏆☺️
 
Great trip report and pictures! I will be there in April. do you remember if the resort offered laundry service or if there was any place close that does laundry?
The bathroom sink is usually my washing machine...add a bit of shampoo and I'm good to go 😉
 

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