Duet 2 Tevo Tornado upgrade advice...

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I had to PID tune my bed heater using m303 h0 s100

I got this final output after about 15 minutes. I replaced the code with the correct one and no more heater errors.

Auto tuning heater 0 completed after 3 idle and 5 tuning cycles in 998 seconds. This heater needs the following M307 command: M307 H0 R0.532 K0.167:0.000 D13.56 E1.35 S1.00 B0 Edit the M307 H0 command in config.g to match this. Omit the V parameter if the heater is not powered from VIN.
 
First print... no, it's not Benchy, it's Ghost Benchy. Other than the Heaters, I've not calibrated a thing and I'm using filament that's been sitting out in the open for over 2 years. I didn't yet to get Cura to speed things up, or make any tweaks to the file. It's all default at this point. To be candid, I told my sister that I was expecting it all to fail, and at any moment.

It didn't.

It hasn't.

I'm actually pretty happy with what I see.

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About 60% done and looking eerie. @ 60% done

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The reflection in the glass looks cool... @80% done

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Finished!

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That reflection is just awesome! You can even read "Benchy Ghost" on the stern.​

I'm going to start the cube print just before bed to see how my xyz axis are doing. I'll also run a filament cal in the am.

But I'm excited. The combo direct drive extruder and Duet 2 Wifi have simplified printing, or so it seems. I want to finish the CR Touch so I can really trammel the bed. The second z motor really made it easy to get it all straight, but I want it done right. I also have a filament sensor coming so I don't have to sweat running out and I want to add z axis supports while I'm there. I do need to design/print a case for the Duet 2 Wifi as well as try to get the touch panel to work. This is good!
 
20mm cal cube printed mostly fine last night: 20.11, 20.56, and 19.04 respectively with distinct elephant's foot. Changes were made to the config.g file and now it's time to calibrate the extruder and then print something fun.

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Then it all went to crap. Yesterday morning, as I was posting I hit "Home all" and heard rude noises from my Tornado. It seemed that a wire had broken to Z0 and it became obvious that I was crimping too tightly. I re-crimped the ends and got a "short message" in phase A. Phase A??? Did they mean Z0? I ohmed out the cable and found no shorts. In the next hour or so, I figured out that being wired in serially, meant I had to divide and conquer, removing B's lead screw and jumping the header as if she wasn't there. It turned out that the 42-40 servo on phase A had an internal short, so I replaced the motor with a 42-34 and reinstalled B.

Somewhere in all of this, I rewired a cable backward and when I went to re-terminate, and then followed that sequence for all the stepper motor cables. I was uber frustrated, wasn't having fun, and had plenty of other stuff to do. When I got too frustrated, I simply did something else or moped a bit and came back to it. Late in the day, I finally arrived at this...

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I figured it out after a lot of trial and error and then relying on the following two documents, which I can now easily find since I'm posting them here...

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The kicker? After all of that, the Z motors were going bassackwards. So I learned how to edit the config.g file to change that. I just hit "Home all" again after 24 hours have passed, and it all worked just fine. Le sigh. I probably don't need to match the z motors any closer than I have, but I just ordered 2 42-38 motors. I want the extra ooohmp because that direct drive extruder is a bit heftier than the stock hot end.

Oh what a tangled web we weave when we try to upgrade our printer 3D. -Anon
 
Back on track, and I solved the elephant foot issue and am printing at 80 mm/sec.

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Now it's fun again...

I designed this bracket bask in September 2019 when I was having issues with my printer. I printed it out today but the socket didn't fit. A bit of measuring and it was apparent the printer faithfully executed my poor design. I had designed this in Onshape, and as I tried to adjust the sketch, all the extrusions became unworkable. So Ideleted most of it and in just a few minutes had a much better redesign with support in the corner. The original was prone to breakage with a small bump but this feels solid. The first print was a tad small, but I designed it so I only had to adjust two values to change the entire opening for the socket. I added a bit more beveling on all of the inner holes and this print was perfect. A quick tapping of two holes and this will be ready to mount. I use an LED bulb with an NC momentary switch, so it will illuminate when I open a cabinet or closet door. The socket is a couple of bucks, the bulb just a dollar, and I have about fifty cents in the switch. It's a cheap solution to aid aging eyes and it's a piece I cannot buy.

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The one on the left broke with just a bit of pressure. The one on the right is solid.

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The socket slides in with just a bit of friction. Perfect.​
 
Nice.

In Fusion360 I normally model the threads then offset them 0.1mm outwards.
For FDM and SLA that's normally enough to get a working tolerance off the machine.
 
Nice.

In Fusion360 I normally model the threads then offset them 0.1mm outwards.
For FDM and SLA that's normally enough to get a working tolerance off the machine.
Thanks for the kind words.

I haven't figured out threads yet in Onshape, but the two are quite similar. However, I do own a rather extensive set of taps, dies, and I'm not afraid to use them. I used a 3x12 socket head screw to attach the socket. Here are the fiiles on Thingiverse: G9 Socket Bracket by NetDoc

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https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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