Dry Suit Valves

[dave4868]

There's a tool for the Apeks valves, but the Si-Tech is much more rugged/better and shouldn't need one. They are usually not hard to take apart. But I'm really confused how all you guys put silicone in there when installing it. Never in my years in this business & hobby have I seen anyone doing that. I haven't pulled off the valves of a DUI though, because the're not really that common here. Valve ports does the trick for us anyways, with no glue...

Does the rubber valve port work without caulk on a woven external fabric, like the nylon fabric of a trilaminate?

Maybe the reason there's no water working in along the threads of the weave is that inward water pressure is rarely and minimally greater than the outward suit air pressure at the location of a shoulder exhaust valve.

It stands to reason that a shoulder dump will usually be under slight outward air pressure during the typical horizontal diving attitude.

Would an uncaulked wrist dump valve tend to allow a little water in because it's often held in a low position?

Dave C

 

[hydro1]

Please guys, it's not 'calk' or aquarium sealent -it's RTV adhesive. It only adheres to certain materials in certain conditions. In this case you are using it to 'make' a port, something for for the valve clamping surface to clamp to. If your valve does not have a substancial clamping surface (older Viking(sitech)as a case), you may need a dedicated port, or better -a different valve. The bottom line is if you can pull the material out from between the clamping surface -you need a port -adhesed to the suit. I have ports made from neo or buna rubber, neoprene cemented to the suit -and they are well clamped and the valves are not glued so I can remove them for inspection/cleaning -and checked for tightness -every dive.
Please be sure what your doing -your life could depend on it.