DPV rigging

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The tow cord is just one small part of a mechanical force vector system, that includes your hand, arm, back, fins, boltsnap and DPV. Where the tow cord attaches to the DPV is also relevant. Most are attached near the plane of thrust and symmetrical across the axis of thrust. Mounting the tow cord forward of the plane wound make it unstable and mounting too far behind it would make if very stable, but difficult to maneuver.

Assuming symmetrical tow cord attachment near the thrust plane and no user input, the (white) tow cord will naturally be pulled to intersect the thrust axis. The ring/boltsnap however, has friction with the tow cord and that friction changes with tension and angle between the tow cord legs, so the ring/boltsnap does not freely migrate to the thrust axis. The larger the included angle of the tow cord created by the boltsnap, the more tension there is on the tow cord between the attachment points (for those geometrically challenged Forces and Tensions in Ropes due to Angle ) and more force is placed on the DPV structure to react it. Running a short length of cord between the tow cord attachment points on the DPV and then running a straight cord (blue, in your example) back from it, is the worst combination of factors to unnecessarily increase stress. At a 120 degree tow cord angle, 40lbs of thrust would create 80lbs of (white) tow cord tension (40lb along the thrust axis and 40lbs squeezing the attachment point together) At 150 degree tow cord angle, 40 lbs of thrust would create 154lbs of tow cord tension. (40lb along the thrust axis and 114lbs squeezing the attachment point together). At 170 degree tow cord angle, 40 lbs of thrust would create 460lbs of tow cord tension. (40lb along the thrust axis and 420lbs squeezing the attachment point together). If you try shortening the white cord in your link that much, please have someone video it and post it here!

For reference, with a standard tow cord looped back to the divers waist with around a 30 degree angle, 40lbs of thrust only creates about 2lbs of "squeeze" force on the DPV structure.

Horizontal vs vertical orientation has been covered in those other threads listed above. Simple fact is that you will never be able to ride "hands free" (straight at a constant depth and no other contact with DPV) with a horizontal tow cord, but you can with a vertical tow cord, by taking advantage of the small amount of friction between the tow cord and bolt snap. Other than that, it's personal preference.


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The main advantage of the 6/12 position tow cord position vs the 3/9 is that it allows you to adjust buoyancy without coming off the trigger. If the lower part of the cord is tighter, then the scooter is trying to pull you up, so you are heavy. If the upper part of the cord is tight, it is trying to pull you down, so you are light. We often do pretty long scooter runs in Mexico and the vast majority of divers prefer a simple boltsnap on the tow cord, rather than anything more convoluted.
 
I think the ideal for maneuverability would be a single rope pulling from the motor shaft....

But not extremely practical.
 
Heres what I have done on my modified
Farallon.
Tried different positions and ways and was not happy, this seems to work the best for me.

Granted the shroud is alot smaller in diameter then newer dpv
 

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Heres what I have done on my modified
Farallon.
Tried different positions and ways and was not happy, this seems to work the best for me.

Granted the shroud is alot smaller in diameter then newer dpv

Only attached at one point? The underside of the shroud?

Am I correct in thinking that if you totally relax your grip on the handle while driving, it will go nose down? It’s actually towing you via the cord AND your hand/arm?
 
Not as much as you would think....
Your arm becomes the top of the tow rope. I don't have cruise, so your hand it always on it.

It did seem counterintuitive to me as well, but gives lots of manuvablity. And I have tried different ways and this seems best for me.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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