Doubles Recommedation - New Tanks

[simbrooks]

Do you know anyone you could borrow a set of the heavier tanks off? Also use the money you save on a better tank combo (usually running nearer 1000-1050 as a set) to help pay for a drysuit You are short, but not that short, so i would say 119's or 130's, but i am not in the majority here

As for the good old steel vs aluminium tank debate see Spectre's post I feel happier going down with a drysuit and a steel tank, but a liftbag might suffice as back up buoyancy with steel if your alternative is having AL tanks but no ditchable weight on a wetsuit. That is the only advantage of AL if you have some/enough/not too much ditchable weight.

 

[matt_unique]

OK, bubble buddies,
I've pretty much settled on neutral Al-80's, but I'm going to throw one more thing at ya and then leave ya alone.

I've the following options, each of which is immediately available. Keep in mind each is a turn key set up, bolts, bands and manifold:

Neutral Aluminum 80's - $660
PST HP E-80's - $660
PST HP E-119's - $760
PST HP E-130's - $800

Any changes in your recommendations?

"Regular" AL 80's with bands - $296. The shift in buoyancy is easily manageable.

--Matt

 

[Don Burke]

OK, bubble buddies,
I've pretty much settled on neutral Al-80's, but I'm going to throw one more thing at ya and then leave ya alone.

I would (and did) go for the regular 80s.

- The neutral 80 is actually a bit heavier (in air) than the regular 80 with enough lead to make it neutral.

- The neutral 80 is not nearly as good as a stage bottle as the regular 80.

- Explaining to people at dive shops that I need 3300 psig can be difficult.

The only downside is that you will need 7.25 bands, which may not fit your next set of tanks. The neutrals take 8.00 bands, which fit many steel tanks.

 

[Doc Intrepid]

Two quick comments, then I'm done.

1. The prices you quoted are jacked on the neutral aluminums. They go for $165 each in Virginia, and thats with a valve. Two of'em without valves but with manifold and bands shouldn't run you $660, unless you're paying top dollar for a manifold and bands. Compare here:
http://www.divesales.com/tanks/index.html

2. The set I own (Luxfer, new) fit into 7.25" bands. (But, they are not as useful for sling tanks, and if you want them to be more flexible then get the non-neutral and simply weight for them - V-weight, whatever.)

The huge benefit of steels to me is the capacity they offer. If you're going to be buying steels that offer essentially equivalent capacity to aluminum tanks, then there should be some other rationale (because generally steels cost more than aluminum tanks - those are decent prices on steel tanks). Hell, if its 'six of one/ half dozen of the other' price and capacity-wise (steel 80s v aluminum 80s) then go for the tanks that work best for you fit, weight, and trim-wise. You'll have to compare them in a pool or confined water, but if the guy wants to make a sale he shouldn't have too much trouble allowing you to compare and contrast before you buy.

 

[jerryn]

The real key is the in-water characteristics of the tanks.

Through calculation or experimentation it is easy enough to figure out what it would take, if at the beginning of the dive to say 5 ATA you tore your wing open on a wreck. Which set of doubles would one be able to swim to the surface with and after dumping whatever weight was being carried, which would allow one to tread water for five minutes?

I am 5'7' and 165lbs and I do not wear any weight with steel tanks...but always dive them in a dry suit.

My recommendation is to speak with an instructor experienced in diving doubles and get the appropriate training for this kind of wreck diving. (and don't do deep air).

Jerry