Do you know how to dismantle this 1000 lumen Chinese light?

[raftingtigger]

I bought this light for about $50 and it initially worked great. A very bright light. It has a magnetic switch that quickly turned flaky. To make a long story short it is no longer worth my while to deal with the seller. I have tried to dismantle it - even at the risk of making it non-waterproof - to see if I can fix the switch.

All the electronics are contained in the light head and it looks like if I can get the front glass out I can remove the electronics to work on. So far I can't get the front glass out. With the front retaining ring and o-ring removed I have tried to press out the electronic package and glass. All this did was make the light work again for a while :depressed:.

Has anyone gotten this or similar light further apart? How?

VICTORY!!! (Indirectly thanks to 3D Diver). I used a raft hand pump to apply air pressure to the inside of the light head, and the glass popped out. For safety I had the light head glass down on a counter so the glass couldn't fly out. Everything dissembled easily. Now the question is can I fix the switch. Wish me luck.

 

[3D diver]

I've had my DRIS light open a few times tinkering with it, but not as far as you're asking. In the DRIS light, the reflector drops right out and you can see the LED circuit board. I'm not going to open mine up right now so will comment from memory: It appeared to me the circuit board assembly is threaded into the barrel. I recall seeing two small holes on the periphery that might be there to allow a tool like this to turn the assembly:

Professional Watch Case Opener - Worldwide Free Shipping - DX

I have a bicycle light that requires a similar tool to open it.

 

[Kilili]

What little I know...
Some of them have the threads glued because of leakage problems, and a bit of heat helps.
The general idea is to push the crown onto a pipe or wooden dowel that fits nicely with the crown curves, then twist, or have you managed that?
The other tip referenced by 3D diver is good. You can usually extract using long tweezers with pointed ends and twisting to unscrew, or build a tool with a block and nails to fit the two holes.
In general, I just tend to bang the light until the magnetic switch starts working again. I carry 3, and if one isn't working properly, I just grab another until I have time to look at it.

You will surely find more info on candlepowerforums. Those guys love to take this stuff apart.

 

[3D diver]

If you already have access to the magnetic switch maybe you should simply short out the switch so the light is always on. Just keep the batteries out till you're about to enter the water.

The DRIS light has a twist to turn on feature. My Q-light had the same feature, and recently flooded, either 'cause I twisted too far when turning it off or crud in the o-rings. Regardless it seems prudent not to do too much twisting in the water, so simply turn the lights on before submerging and turn them off on the surface heading back.

 

[Ed Palma]

From looking at photos of the head, there's a possibility that it isn't a single piece. I know I used to have a head which I thought was just one piece, but after a few tries, it actually came apart. Here's a possible seam where the front might come off:

 

[raftingtigger]

OK, light is fully dissembled A little air pressure loosened the glass and I didn't even need the tool 3D Diver suggested as the ring was loose. I will want such a tool to reassemble properly.

As far as I can tell the problem is that the magnet in the led module is broken into several pieces.

I removed the loose pieces and it sort of worked. I have used silicon caulking to glue the pieces all back together.


I'll post my results. I would really like to just replace the led module if I can find one. I will try candlepowerforums.

Lesson: I like the mechanical switch on the DRIS 1000 lumen light better.

 

[3D diver]

Browse some more in that link I posted---they have a bunch of LED modules for sale in their flashlight parts section. I've never actually bought anything from them but have snooped around wondering what I could do with all that nifty stuff.

 

[Ed Palma]

I don't think that was part of a magnet, but a bit of the inductor coil that you put back together with silicone. Most magnets in dive lights are located on the outside and influence a hall sensor located on the inside:

When you say the light "sort of works" - is it erratic? Dimmer?

 

[raftingtigger]

I don't think that was part of a magnet, but a bit of the inductor coil that you put back together with silicone. Most magnets in dive lights are located on the outside and influence a hall sensor located on the inside:

When you say the light "sort of works" - is it erratic? Dimmer?

Light flashes on occasionally. Thanks, I think the problem is the "hall sensor", but didn't know it's name to try to find a replacement. Shorting it (think I did at least) doesn't seem to help.


BTW, I had bent it upward thinking I needed to to disassemble. The sensor fits flush in the larger casing groove. There is electrical continuity between the brass looking ring and the center contact of the hall sensor. I do not get continuity between the battery spring and either of the outside contacts. Oh, and yes the magnet is on the outside.

PSS. I loved classical physics but hated electromagnetism and beyond.

---------- Post Merged at 07:25 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 07:01 AM ----------


OK, things make much more sense. I was shorting the ground to each of the outside contacts. Of course that didn't work. I did include the case markings on my diagram.

ALL of you have really helped. This is what I like about SB

---------- Post Merged at 10:12 AM ---------- Previous Post was at 07:01 AM ----------

Taking the Halls sensor out by bridging the outer contacts doesn't seem to help. The red wire came un-soldered, which is something I can easily repair, but I'm beginning to think there is something wrong with the circuit itself. Easiest would be to replace the circuit. For this I have no clue where to look without just browsing at random stores. I will post this on candlepowerforums when I get permissions to do so. In the mean time any ideas? The flashlight can be found here 200m Underwater Diving CREE XML T6 LED Torch Flashlight | Sports & Outdoor | Linkdelight.com but I will not do business with them again.

I'm willing to replace parts or even the whole assembly with alternate items. Essentiallly I have a waterproof casing and battery holder that I'd like to put a working light emitter (1000 lumens or so - it's for my GoPro) into. I need to keep the cost low. If it starts getting much I'd be better off just getting a second DRIS 1000 lumen light for $90. I know $90 doesn't seem like much with regards to scuba gear, but I'm broke, supporting a family alone, and addicted -- so I need to keep the pennies to pay for the 3-1/2 hour one-way gas expenses to go diving.

For whatever it is worth here is my current set-up. 2 of 3D Diver's light mounts are in the mail to replace the hose clamps.

For that matter, I wonder if it would be possible to replace the 180 lumen led/star with a higher lumen one and just leave the light housing as they are. The switches are easier than a twist one.

 

[raftingtigger]

I'm learning more, but not there yet. I've tried Candlepowerforum and either I'm not waiting long enough for my first post to get moderated (it's been 2 days) or they aren't posting it. This is what I've gleaned so far about my broken light.

LED is a Cree XM-L T6 with a max output of about 1000 lumens at 3 amps, and about 290 lumens at 700 milliamps.
Batteries are 2 18650 cells in series for about 8.4 volts Figuring that the driver delivers 1/2 that voltage forward I tested the LED driven directly from 3 AA batteries in series (4.2 Volts). It worked - very bright. So my LED emitter is good.

The Hall sensor (magnetic switch) appears to be a Winson WSH315 (Linear Hall Effect Sensor IC: Features:z Wide operating range 3.0~12V, -40℃~125℃ z Wide output voltage range 0.2~4.8V (at Vdd=5V) ±1,500 Gauss on 5V supplied voltage). Center contact connects with the negative battery terminal. Vdd connects to the positive battery terminal sometimes. I then connected the negative battery terminal to the circuit board terminal and the positive battery to the emitter positive terminal. This gives me a weak light. Clearly something in the ground circuit of the driver board is lowering the current, but not the voltage (tests as 4.2V). I get no response to the magnet touching the Hall sensor either with or without the power on.

Conclusion: I have a bad driver circuit and possibly a bad Hall sensor.

Solutions:
1. Find a replacement driver board that has the same Hall sensor location (haven't found one)
2. Install a driver board that has the switch permanently closed and turn the light on/off by putting in the batteries - not my favorite idea, but the simplest to do.
3. Install a driver board and use the head for the start of a can light - intriguing idea - I could even mount the larger battery pack under the GoPro as a stabilization weight. Since this is a longer DIY project...
4. Install a driver board and install a mechanical switch into the tail cap. I'd probably have to find a waterproof push on/push off to fit in the space available, although a toggle with a waterproof cap is my preference.

IDEAS anyone??? Point me to other threads? Suppliers? (DX looks intriguing) I even thought about taking the Cree XM-L T6 and moving it over to the 180 lumen light (I have 4), but wonder about the heat dissipation and battery life. Might melt the plastic housing of the light even in the water but then again DX has a 1000 lumen diving light in a plastic housing for $15.50.