Do I want redundant gauges with dive computer?

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nope, I don't carry anything, I used to carry an SPG, but realized its not worth it. If my computer fails the dive is over unless I have an SPG, Depth Gauge, Bottom Timer, and my NDL's available. So carring an SPG is worthless as I would need the others as well. If the computer fails the dive is over, and I am heading up. Knowing how much air I have is pointless, as I knew when I had enough air to continue diving, so by definition I have enough air to safely ascend.

I'm a newbie compared to just about anyone, but hear me out please.
My SPG, Bottom Timer (diver watch), Depth Gauge, NDL's (air/nitrox tables), all cost me , less than $250! All are new, proven, and high quality pieces of equipment that I use as my primaries. I then bought a Nitek Duo to use as my backup, not the other way around. If my computer fails, the dives still happening! And anyway, it's my backup only. And at $80 -$130 for a two tank boat dive, I don't risk my or my buddies safety, or the lose of money from a thumbed dive.

All the best,
Geoff
 
I use an AI computer for recreational diving and I have hundreds of dives without ever having an issue; especially during a dive. However, I have an SPG primarily because I don't know when the battery will finally die. It has given out twice; both times before the dive, not during the dive.

The main reason I keep my SPG on my first stage is because my tech instructor stated I had to have it. Nonetheless, it was nice to have the SPG already on my first stage which saved me from having to add a hose while it was cold outside or while I was on a rocking boat.

I have seen many posts about how equipment (especially the transmitter) can fail. Any piece of equipment can fail. Does that mean I (we) should bring a redundant set of gear (everything) with me (us) while on a dive "just in case"? Not a bad idea, but what about practicallity?

I have seen regulator's free flow during a cold dive, inflator hoses fail (warm water), plastic break (in cold water), o-rings (in the pool and on the surface) give out but I have yet to see a trasmitter fail during a dive. Having said that, it doesn't mean it will not happen. I'm simply stating it has been rare in my diving experience.

In fact I can say I've seen the barametric change in pressure at altitude affect (drain) my battery faster than daily/repetitive dives at sea level.

At a minumum I would at least bring along a hp hose, with spg, along with an extra mask strap, o-rings, and fin straps (if you don't have springs) just in case.

Chris
 
PotableWater- don't take this the wrong way. but that is the mindset of a beginer. The cost of the dive is meaningless. If you are that worried about computer failure then you shouldn't bother with them at all, they are not required and hundreds of thousands of dives have safely been made, and continue to do so, without them. The cost of the dive and the cost of the equipment that I carry is meaningless when I have an emergency and I'll dump every cent I have to ensure that I stay alive. Since I have selected to use a computer to tract my depth, time, air, etc... if it fails then I consider that an emergency (yes, a very minor one) and thumbing the dive means I live to dive another day. I have done enough dives that thumbing a dive means nothing to me, its just another dive.

Now if you a tech diver, trimix, cave etc... this mindset doesn't apply to you. backup is critical in those types of environments. I am purely speaking to true recreational diving.
 
I just purchased a bc and reg, when the owner asked if I wanted depth gauge I told them that even though my friend had given me his old Aladdin wrist comp I wanted a backup, just in case. I would rather have an extra gauge at a small cost than have to call a dive because my comp had a problem.

I would say have a backup, you never know when you might need it.
 
There is nothing wrong if you want to have a back up gauge. If it makes you feel better, then go with it, and use one. The extra weight of a compact gauge is maybe 2lb at most with the hp hose. Dive with what you feel comfortable with. If you feel more comfortable with having a back up gauge, then do it.

There are 4 hoses on my rig, 2 lp for the reg and octo, 1 hp for my decor console. The other hp port holds the transmitter for my t3. Does that extra hose bother me, I do not even notice the it or the extra weight. I do plan my dives with rdp prior to my dives. I count on the computer, but if it fail during my dive. I still have my gauges and dive watch, so I can continue my dives. This is a extra precaution, and I really do not need cancel the dive. This is my Army training, have a back up, military operation do not get cancel when the primary systems go down.

Some trust the computer completely an want to eliminate the extra hose. If they like it, and can give them the extra 5 min. That fine.
 
I bring a ScubaPro mini-spg/depth gauge and cheap dive watch with me and leave it in my bag. It has the same quick disconnect as my SmartCom, so if my computer fails, it just means the dive is over, and I can swap it for the next dive.

Unless you're doing some sort of overhead enviroment (deco obligation or actual overhead), there's no reason to bring both a computer and a backup on the dive.

Every bit of extra cr** you bring underwater is more drag and something else to snag, break or lose.

Also, even if your computer failed and you had an SPG and depth gauge (and tables) with you, it would all still be useless, since there's no way to figure out where you should be on the table unless you also happened to know how long you had been down and what your max depth was and which group you were in from any previous dive(s).

A spare on the boat is nice, but I never bring it on the dive.

Terry

You make really good points, and you are 100% right about not being able to switch to analog gauges and table during the dive if you have not kept track of your depth and time, and the depth and time of the previous dive.

For me, it is second nature to keep track of that info during and between dives (depth, time, surface interval, and NDL's for repetitive dives).

I think this is probably because I began diving in the '70's, and until recently did not use a dive computer... maybe when I've used it more I'll be "weaned" from my dive watch, depth gauge and tables completely :D

Until then, I still refer to my dive watch and analog depth gauge along with the computer throughout the dive.

Safe Diving!
 
Carry a mini spg in your save a dive. From what I've seen the major failure point on wireless rigs is the transmission. If that goes you still get nitrogen loading and depth data. So if the trans goes, swap in the SPG and continue to dive as a non-integrated computer.
 
Twice on the same day my hoseless AI computer took its sweet little time communicating with the transmitter on open-ocean dives off Hatteras. On one dive I was about two breaths away from aborting the dive when it FINALLY started communicating. All other computer functions worked as advertized. I would have been really plucked had I had to abort those dives. It got me to thinking and the pilot in me came out and I decided I wanted some reduncancy.

Later that week, at home, I bought a used SPG for $20 which I clip onto the right side of my BC. I do that because the transmitter is mounted on the left HP port of my regulator so as to have the shortest line-of-sight to the wrist unit. Since then, my computer has never failed to communicate on a dive.

My original computer crapped out on me after annual service one year, and we sent it back to the manufacturer. They had identified a problem with this model of computer and offered me a rebuilt unit for $225. After long thought I took that offer and have not had a moment's trouble with the refurbished wrist unit. The transmitter is original.

Anyone who has a backup SPG has probably noticed that the pressure reading on the SPG tends to run higher than the computer. Since I started working in my dive shop, I have noticed this on just about every single AI computer that comes across my bench. Lots of them read as much as 200-300 psi low at mid-range, and 100-200 psi low at low pressures. This is a good thing; it means you have more air in your tank than you think you do.
 

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