DIY Video Housing a success...

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Bobby's right, the paint can get a bit messed up after a few dives. I've always lightly sanded the housing and put a couple coats of a good primer on before the final paint and it's done ok. With my latest housing I used Krylon Fusion. The stuff is made for use on plastic and it's supposed to last longer the regular paint. It really seems to work and no primer is required so it saves a little time and money.
 
Worked the last couple nights for a few hours so I'm gettin g pretty close to assembly:

Parts: 6" PVC pipe 10.5 inches long
6" coupling PVC $$
6" 45 degree as could not get another coupling
2 pieces 7.5 inches square 3/8" lexan air craft grade
2 -1" NPT to PVC tube fittings (they have the hex end)
1 piece of 1/2" x 3" x 12" PVC for supporrts etc
1 piece of 1/8" alumunum X 10.5" long to mount the camera
3 stainless draw clasps
Miscelaneous screws etc

So far: Cut down and machined the coupling for the front of the housing. Left 1 inch proud ahead of the camera lense and 1.5 inches for the lense and attaching to the PVC pipe. Machined all ends square and faced off the surface to clean off the casting marks. Macined pipe to 10.5 " as required for the camera. Machined the 45 elbow for the back of the housing by choping it down to a straight piec and keeping the inner flange to support the back lense. Smooth faced a 1.5" section from the coupling to use as an o-ring sealing face and a place to mount the clips (very similar to bobby red housing with the white end caps)

Machined and fitted the lexan to the forward and after parts of the housing. Lenses are in but housing has not been glued up.

Questions:

1. Bobby mentioned at one point that the double o-ring did not work, one inside one out. Would a gasket inside and o-ring out work or is it best to let the one ring do its job?

2. Has anyone machined a 45 degree bevel on the inside edge of the back cover that would a. Capture the o-ring and prevent extrusion. b. force the o-ring tighter into the housing body and cap. The face of the collar that holds the clips and o-ring would remain flat. The 45 being just enough to capture the o-ring and not big enough to allow the collar and back cover to ever meet.

3. Camera position inside the housing: right up to the front lense? Would you install a soft rubber gasket at the front lense the camera would gently touch?

Thanks for any insight. Will put drawings up if that would help
 
It's not that a double O-ring can't work, just not where they're both competing for clamping pressure at the same time. My theory is that if you take a 70 durometer O-ring (hardness) and double it up, it's almost like a single 140 durometer O-ring. You have to clamp twice as hard to get the same seal. It gets even worse if the inner one touches first (no matter how slight). If you can get a second O-ring machined into the housing body itself so that it slightly protrudes the outer circumference of the body and seals against the inside wall of the coupling, that would not compete at all with the primary o-ring. Here's the thing, many of use used a single O-ring design with no problems at all but the one person that tried double rings had a leak.

The O-ring should have no tendancy to extrude. It should sit pretty tight around the outside wall of the housing body. Outside water pressure will push in on it, not pull out. I don't think putting a bevel on it would necessarily hurt anything as long as you can machine it perfectly. I'm not sure there is any real benefit though.

My cam is right up against the front window and there is a plastic lip around the whole thing that hits before the lense glass. It barely touches if at all. If it's too far away though, you can have light coming in from the rear window and reflecting back at the lense.

Good luck.

Bobby
 
Again Bobby's right. There is no need for a double O-ring seal if the single O-ring is done right. I've built 3 different housings as well as 3 canister lights, all with a single O-ring seal and not one has ever leaked around the O-ring even at depths of over 160 feet. Remember that the pressure will be pushing in on the O-ring as well as the lens and rear cover so the O-ring will not extrude out from the housing, depending on how you install the O-ring the deeper you go the better the seal as the pressure will press on the lens pushing it tighter against the O-ring.

The best advise anyone ever gave me for DIY stuff was the KISS principal, Keep It Simple Stupid. The more complex the design the more chance for failure.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
The materials list for my housing was quite a bit shorter.
6-in schedule 80 PVC pipe----11 inches long
Two faceplates of 1-in clear acrylic, routered to "top-hat" shape
6 springloaded latches and keepers
two 6 in o-rings (to fit ends of pvc pipe and faceplates)
1 piece of bar aluminum long enough to make a handle
miscellaneous small blocks of pvc and thin plastic/acryllic to make slide platform for camera

I chose to use an electronic "buttom pusher" using a solenoid and magnetic switch so that no holes would be in the housing.

Fabrication time is relatively short. I've had it to over a hundred feet, and it works perfectly.
 
Yes Guba your design is much simpler........

Finished assembly and I think It should do for several thousand feet. Might be a tad heavy in construction......

I have enough room for a mirror to reflect the image on the side screen. About 2.5 x 3.5 inches in this particular camera. Has anyone tried this?

I probably could have crammed it into 5" tube....hmmmmm :huh:

I'll allow a few days for all things to harden up and then the depth test. We are docked right now so I'll only get about 40 feet.......need to see how it floats....or sinks... Perhaps shoot a few unmanned video as I don't have the gear on board...

Had to make the o-ring so that is the one failure point presently known.....:shakehead
 
Hey Bobby, Just noticed your shirt in your Avatar....You play the drums?....if so Rock on brother so do I :D
 
Bobby_M:
Here's the thing, many of use used a single O-ring design with no problems at all but the one person that tried double rings had a leak.

Bobby


Ouch! That stung!

What can I say, seemed like a hell of an idea at the time.

Mark 2, Mod 0 in the works.

Paul
 
Threw the works over the side into 20 feet of water for 20 min. Hauled up and checked for leaks and found ..................none!!!:D Took apart and re-asssembled.

Assembled quickly and not worried about how the cover was placed

Next squared away a longer teather and dropped her to the bottom at 40 feet for 1 hour............no leeks:D :D

She floats about 3/4 submerged with a similar weight to a camera and at even keel. It even rolled over on the surface so that the handles were in the correct orientation. This is good so far. Next is to establish weight to obtain neutrality and video video......

will get some pics posted as soon as possible .............
 

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