DIY regulator test/flow panel

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

If your talking about the manometer, it is used to check the cracking pressure and the exhaust pressure of the second stage. Using this gauge you can determince if the reg is preforming to specs. If your making changes to the reg (ie- tuning it), you take before and after measurements to determine if your changes made the desired result.
An example:Your reg seems to be breathing harder than it should. You test it on the manometer, sure enough it's cracking pressure is say 3 inches of water (Apex specs call for 1.3 to 2 in of H2O..too high IMO but that is on MY reg). You inspect it, the diaphram seem stiff so you drop in another one, test again and now it's at factory specs again. A major change is obvious but if your tweeking a reg to suit you, minor changes can be hard to determine without some instrument. There are gauges that do the same thing but the mamometer is inexpensive, easy to build and needs no calibration.
 
You can use it one of 2 ways. The mouth piece in the photos has been drilled out and the hose barb installed. I install it on the reg and test- no need for a tiewrap, it fits fine just for testing. If you already have a mouthpiece on the reg, you can work the hose in the side of your mouth along with the mouthpiece. It's somewhat of a PITA to do but it does work. If it's more that a quick check I go ahead and remove the mouth piece and use the manometer one.
hey how deep is that barb inserted into the mouth piece? or is it just the tip there? btw thats an awesome set up!
 
I just got an inline adjustment tool, IP guage for it, seperate IP that goes on the bc hose, reg handle, and spanner wrench for my Oceanic regs. Vance's books( reg and oxyhacker's) are on the way. My ultrasonic will be here Monday according to UPS tracking. I was goingto the shop to use all the specialty type tools but that gets to be a pain. Now with the other stuff I have I'm set. Just need to make a cutaway 3/4 socket for my sherwood regs( no biggie I work in a machine shop and can do it on the mill), I'll be cutting out a thin wrench on the waterjet as soon as I can get a few minutes on there, and I'll be set. I like Hermans set up as well. I have everything here at home to build one or there is some tubing at work I can use. Just need to pick up some of those fancy mounting clamps. Or ziptie through the board!
 
I know nothing about working on regs, but I was wondering what you use this device for??

A manometer or magnahelic is a pressure or vacuum gauge for measuring very small values of either pressure or vacuum. Some magnahelics are compound which means it will do both pressure and vacuum with out any valves or such. Compound means that it has a scale on it that would show positive pressure and negative pressure on it's scale (face). Some magnahelics have a zero on the left side of the face and increasing numbers going to the right , just like a typical analog voltmeter would. The way you hook your tubing up will determine if you will be doing vacuum or pressure. It has ports on the back that you either plug or utilize.
What it's used for is determining what is referred to in the industry is work of breathing , often WOB for short in magazines or technical specifications.
The magnahelic or manometer is just a way of giving that inhalation a measureable value.
How people do that at the factory , LDS, and home varies greatly.
By the way , the manometer is a very simple tube that is U shaped that has distilled water in it. The water always seeks equilibrium with itself on each leg of the U. A tube is attached to one side and either pressure or vacuum is applied. It is usually less expensive than a Magnahelic (which is a brand name). The magnahelic is usually prefered that's all.
A magnahelic is attached to the reg second stage at the mouthpiece with a small barb fitting. The operator then either inhales with his mouth or a vacuum generator (preferred) and you watch a pressure gauge that is attaced in some way to an intermediate pressure (IP) port or hose. The operator keeps his eye on the IP gauge and watches for it to drop a little bit. This drop shows when the regulator first and second stage seats have opened allowing air to move(inhalation). He then quickly looks at the value on the magnahelic to see if it is within desired inhalation specs .
In a reg manufacturers facility these of course are highly sophisticated often electronic instruments connected to pc's for recording and evaluation. Look up ANSTI breathing machine on google or something for details on that.
The value that you will see for inhalation effort is given in inches of water not psi as the psi value is so tiny they use water column instead. Just a set standard is all.
That value could be something like 1.2 inches water column (1.2"W.C. for short)
different manufactures wil specify different values but close to that. Often times exact same second stages , one as your primary and one as your secondary or octo will have different W.C. specs. This is because they intentionally detune the octo to minimize free flowing.
A simple way that many people use to check there regs is like what was mentioned above, the bucket of water.
With the bucket of water , and you can do this in the kitchen sink as well, you take your pressurized second stage regulator and hold it so that the diaphragm is as close to perfectly parallel to the water surface and slowly push it down into the water. Most regs will start to hiss (passing air) when the reg is approximately an inch to inch and a quarter deep. This typicalyy is before the lowest portion (the part that touches your teeth) of the reg is submerged. This is on typical regs. Having zero experience with Poseidon or Poseidon style regs I don't know how you would go about the bucket test with them.
If your reg doesn't flow around that point it may need to be checked. It would mean that it might breathe a little more effort than the human body likes if it didn't open up the seats.
Maybe a little long winded but it wasn't a quickie answer. There is alittle more involved but this was it in a nutshell.
Randy
 
From a previous thread , this is my air flow bench. As stated in my post it is a little carried away but it was winter and spring was far off.
Seves me well. It has a valve on the bench that I can put the reg on that I'm servicing and everything is right in front of me .
On the right side of the bench is a tester called a Pro Chek. It was made by Peterbuilt (ScubaTools) and is a u tube manometer of sorts. It shows values of vacuum that are extremely tiny. Actually vacuum leaks. It is used to test reg second stages to see why they might be breathing wet when everything seems OK. Doesn't get used much but is handy.

Randy
 
I would like to make a reguletor test panel at home and was wondering if those of you who had done this would share any pictures, parts list, schematics, or other advice.
Thanks

A shortened hose protector can be used as an insert into the mouthpiece opening. The tapered or blunt end will seal either with a rubber mouthpiece installed or not. After you've figured out how much to cut off, drill a hole for a barbed fitting that attaches to the tube going to the manometer/magnehelic.

magnehelic mouthpiece tool.JPG

magnehelic mouthpiece tool 2.JPG

magnehelic mouthpiece tool 3.JPG
 
Last edited:
One simple but effective test item you can build for little of nothing is a U tube manometer. It's a simple U tube of water (1/4 in plastic) with a ruler attached. Cracking pressure is rated in "inches of water" and that is the scale a water filled manometer displays (or mm of water if you prefer). You can read both cracking pressure and exhaust pressure. It's not as cool as a magnehelic gauge but it's simple and effective. Total cost of this one was less than $10. All parts were purchased at Kmart or Lowes except for the used mouth piece. The can of spray paint was the most expensive item and I have enough clamps and tubing left over for a couple more. The mouth piece is shown connected to an old US Divers second stage.

While your at the hardware store you can also pick up parts for a $15 IP test gauge. The hose is an old LP hose. This one includes an overpressure valve rated at 150 psi. A really good addition but a little nerve wracking when it opens up the first time.

Maybe it's just my Asperger's talking but I'm not quite understand how this is connected to a regulator that you want to test. What's throwing me off is it looks like the cable tie is still attached to the mouthpiece. Are you adding and removing a cable tie each time you connect it to another regulator to insure that there are no leaks? The IP gauge I get :wink:

So, once you determine that the regulator cracking pressure is off a little, what second stage adjustments are possible assuming you have already adjusted the valve seat to optimum? Replacing the diaphragm seems to me to be about all that is left. My understanding concerning a piston-type first stage is that if the IP is low you add shims, too high you remove shims, and if it creeps there is a leak in an o-ring or the valve seat. Anything else?

And speaking of old US Divers second stages, are you able to get that one to free-flow using the bucket method? I have two of those and neither will crack open by immersing in a bucket of water. Would that be because the diaphragms are too old and stiff? I think they are dandy for an octopus because they won't ever free-flow :wink:
 
I'm not quite understand how this is connected to a regulator that you want to test.

Hi JamesBon92007,

I've edited my post above your's with pictures to save a few thousand words.

Couv
 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom