DIY LED lamp

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

You have a point.
What are you planning to make with that small of a lathe? If is is a 3"x8" you can only spin parts that are less that 3" in diameter by 8" long, right? Of course, that depends on the size of the chuck. I assume the chuck is 1.5" or so. Right. I don't know much about lathes, but I know I want one. So this will help me decide what to get. I have been looking at a 7x12 (which is cheaper than the 8x14 I really want), but don't want to buy something that is too small. I would like to spin custom canisters and light heads.
 
I can just fit a maglite head on it. I cant do a cannister though.

So far I have made the lens holders, heatsinks (although I got someone else to make the latest 7 as its very time consuming with a small lathe) and various other parts.

I have also used it to mod the IST dive lights. You can read more about those on the SODs site under DIY.
 
Pack, question on chuck size on lathe. If a chuck is rated at 3", does that mean it can hold a 3" piece from the inside and the outside? How are lathe chucks rated? I am looking at an 8x12 with a 4" chuck and was wondering if I can turn a 3" cannister with it?
Thanks
 
Hi 350xfire,
I have the HarborFreight 8x12 lathe, and mounted a 4" 4-jaw chuck on it. You will be easily able to turn a 3" wide canister, though I think the problem will be the length, rather than the width. For boring a hole, the length of the lathe has to encompase the length of the canister, plus the length of the drill bit in a chuck. I think when I measured a year ago, I concluded that the max canister that I could bore out was somewhere in the ballpark of 7".
-Todd.
 
I have been running my maglight,2 d cell light with 3 c cell nmh batts for 6 months without using a driver,has been fine,I have never put a meter on it to see what the amp draw was. my meter only does ac amps,need one for dc.
 
Thanks Todd. Exactly the info I was looking for.

Mark, I have been running my P7 with 3D alkalines and have had no issues. Roughly 4.5 volts.
 
Hi 350xfire,
I have the HarborFreight 8x12 lathe, and mounted a 4" 4-jaw chuck on it. You will be easily able to turn a 3" wide canister, though I think the problem will be the length, rather than the width. For boring a hole, the length of the lathe has to encompase the length of the canister, plus the length of the drill bit in a chuck. I think when I measured a year ago, I concluded that the max canister that I could bore out was somewhere in the ballpark of 7".
-Todd.

Could you bore some out with a shorter bit and then install the longer one?
 
Could you bore some out with a shorter bit and then install the longer one?

Yeah, I've had the same thought, but haven't tried it.

While the Harbor Freight 8x12 (14) is a good lathe at a great price, I've regretted not spendng the money to get a Grizzly 10x22 lathe. G0602 10" x 22" Bench Top Metal Lathe It seems like the extra length would be better for boring out canisters. The lathe also comes with a 5" 3-jaw and a 6 1/2" 4-jaw chuck, versus the 3" 3-jaw chuck that the 8x12 comes with.

BTW, a lot of folks recommend using pvc schedule 40 conduit, and just turning an end cap to glue onto the bottom, rather than boring out a canister from a single piece of stock.
 
Yeah, I've had the same thought, but haven't tried it.

While the Harbor Freight 8x12 (14) is a good lathe at a great price, I've regretted not spendng the money to get a Grizzly 10x22 lathe. G0602 10" x 22" Bench Top Metal Lathe It seems like the extra length would be better for boring out canisters. The lathe also comes with a 5" 3-jaw and a 6 1/2" 4-jaw chuck, versus the 3" 3-jaw chuck that the 8x12 comes with.

BTW, a lot of folks recommend using pvc schedule 40 conduit, and just turning an end cap to glue onto the bottom, rather than boring out a canister from a single piece of stock.

OUCH! That one's $1200 vs, $600 for HF.
Yeah! That's what I've been doing. Using PVC pipe and making ends. It is pretty cheap, but not as nice as a custom turned piece. Of course, turning your own means wasting a lot of PVC by hollowing out the bar and it's pretty expensive.
 
Yeah, it is a lot of money, but then again lathes are a lot of money. After the initial cost of the lathe, I think I spent probably $400 in tools or upgrades. My upgrade to a 4" chuck was $100, and I also bought a $50 following rest, both of which are included with the grizzly. Just something to think about. :)

I haven't built a light yet, but I alternate between thinking about the pipe vs solid piece approach. All of my thoughts around the solid piece then revolve around how to I get past my short lathe.
 

Back
Top Bottom