DIY Conshelf XIV

[mkgriesinger]

To start off... I am new at DIY regulator repair. Until i get more advanced, i always carry a pony /second setup that has been professionally maintained.

The Conshelf XIV TECHNICAL Manual states there is "Conshelf XIV Tool Kit (PN 108110)". But that cost almost 800$. It seems like most the tools can be bought from hardware store.

Question 1: What tools do you use to repair AquaLung Regulators?

Question 2: Is there any special tool i should be aware of?

In addition, I see that ebay has separate "overhaul kits" for the first stage and second stage. However, i can get the Overhaul parts kit for the Military from a aqualung dealer.

Question 3:Is there any difference in standard vs Military parts kits?

Question 4:If so, are the parts interchangeable?

Thanks!

PS. I pretty sure my regulators are pre-1997. I know there are slight differences between the new XIV and Old XIV.

 

[herman]

You can fairly easily do Conshelfs with standard tools. The only one that is a little out of the normal is the clip ring tool. A common tool but not one everyone has, still it's $10+- for a good one at most tool stores.....and get yourself a good one. There are a couple of other things you need like an IP gauge and it is helpful to have some way of measuring cracking pressure. A simple manometer does nicely and you can make one for a few dollars. Then there are a couple of other tools that can substituted for/worked around but are a big help. An inline adjustment tool for the second stage and a HP assembly tool for the first are the major ones for a Conshelf. Both you can do without but they make life easier. An ultra sonic cleaner is also high on my makes life easier list, those can be had at Harbor Freight for $50-60.
I would not bet on being able to buy Mil parts, if the dealer will not sell you standard ones, it's unlikely he will order and sell you Mil parts. The difference between them I am not sure of, materials most likely....and more cost to be sure but in any case a Conshelf is a Conshelf so the parts will work.

 

[Hallmac]

Question 1: What tools do you use to repair AquaLung Regulators?

The conshelf can be serviced reliably with a crescent wrench, a screwdriver, an o-ring pick, an IP gauge, split ring pliers and a couple of open ended wrenches.

Question 2: Is there any special tool i should be aware of?

See answer to question 1.

Question 3:Is there any difference in standard vs Military parts kits?

I believe the Military kits also include the environmental seals. I would have to double check that been a long time since I ordered one that way.

Question 4:If so, are the parts interchangeable?

yes.

 

[mkgriesinger]

You can fairly easily do Conshelfs with standard tools. The only one that is a little out of the normal is the clip ring tool. A common tool but not one everyone has, still it's $10+- for a good one at most tool stores.....and get yourself a good one. There are a couple of other things you need like an IP gauge and it is helpful to have some way of measuring cracking pressure. A simple manometer does nicely and you can make one for a few dollars. Then there are a couple of other tools that can substituted for/worked around but are a big help. An inline adjustment tool for the second stage and a HP assembly tool for the first are the major ones for a Conshelf. Both you can do without but they make life easier. An ultra sonic cleaner is also high on my makes life easier list, those can be had at Harbor Freight for $50-60.
I would not bet on being able to buy Mil parts, if the dealer will not sell you standard ones, it's unlikely he will order and sell you Mil parts. The difference between them I am not sure of, materials most likely....and more cost to be sure but in any case a Conshelf is a Conshelf so the parts will work.

haha I'm going to try to find most my tools from harbor freight. I saw an Intermediate Test Gauge from LP for a good price. What is a manometer? For cracking pressure i was going to use a bucket of water. What would be the common replacement for the 'Poppet Wrench'? And is there any homemade remedy for the HP Spring Block? The place i would get the mil kit only sells the mil kit. (they normally only deal with the military.)Thanks again for all your help

 

[herman]

I would suggest better tools that HF, honestly they are cheap. Cheap tools are just that cheap. Get a good mid range tools, the cheap ones just do not work as good as quality tools.
Here is my manometer http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/218961-diy-regulator-test-flow-panel.html

If the "poppet wrench"is used for removing the LP seat holder, I just use a set of thin needle nose pliers to hold it.
As for the HP spring block tool well yes and no. I make them but you need a lathe to do so. PM me for more info.

 

[mkgriesinger]

Whats a good torque wrench to use on the XIV? I can't find one small enough to do 15 in pounds torque for the Box bottom port plug. I know i will probably need a in/lbs and ft/lbs wrench. The lowest value is 15in lbs for port plugs. The Highest value is 25 ft/lbs for spring retainer. Preferably i would like to spend less than the cost of a regulator

 

[Fishpie]

Torque wrench is not necessary.
Hallmac nailed it, his list is complete.

 

[herman]

Whats a good torque wrench to use on the XIV? I can't find one small enough to do 15 in pounds torque for the Box bottom port plug. I know i will probably need a in/lbs and ft/lbs wrench. The lowest value is 15in lbs for port plugs. The Highest value is 25 ft/lbs for spring retainer. Preferably i would like to spend less than the cost of a regulator

The big thing to understand is when Orings are doing the sealing, it is their contact with the mating surfaces that does the sealing, not the torque or pressure you put on them. Hose connections only need enought torque to keep them from coming loose. Cranking down on a leaking oring joint is always a bad thing. The big reason to use a torque wrench in the in-lb range is to keep you from over tighting the connection. Just snugg the connection and then a little more.

 

[bj139]

You could use a spring fish scale hooked to the wrench. 15 in-lb equals 15 lbs at 1 inch or 1 lb at 15 inches. If the hook on the scale contacts the wrench at 5 inches from the fastener then apply 3 lbs. (5 X 3 = 15). You could just estimate the 3 lbs which I think is what most people do.

About the poppet wrench: I put my finger in the reg inlet resting on the LP seat which prevents it from turning while you adjust the nut on the other end. I don't know why a poppet wrench is even necessary except to make the tool sellers more money or maybe to save wear on your fingertip.

I have only rebuilt a US Divers Prodiver first stage with Conshelf second stages. The parts from the Conshelf-Titan kit fit just fine. I did not replace all the o-rings, just the bad ones. I used a wooden dowel against the inlet filter to press the HP assembly down and the circlip pliers to put the circlip back in place. The second stage LP seats can be removed from their recess and turned around to expose a fresh surface.

Most of the time I spent adjusting the lever on the second stages. If you adjust the lever for a minimal amount of freeplay, when you pressurize the reg this seems to change and must be readjusted.

Before I did this I bought a paper copy of the Conshelf SES service manual from Ebay ($10). US Divers wrote a really nice manual back then even describing the use of common tools if you don't have the specialty tools.

What criteria would the experts use to determine if a reg needs rebuilding? When buying a used reg do you just rebuild it because you don't know when it has been rebuilt? Certainly it would be needed if IP creep, a leak or free flow problems are noticed after testing cracking pressure in the sink. I did find that the used regs I bought worked fine when hooked to a tank and breathed to test. When the second stages were dunked in the sink they free flowed like crazy. Some had a groove in the LP seat and some needed adjustment.

Bill