DIY Canister Light and Lighthead

[Tiny Bubbles]

I should have said I finished the maglite head, except for the goodman handle... I haven't decided how to make that yet. And the batteries were not "fresh off the charger". They were charged but then sat around a few days while I messed with the paint.

 

[Padipro]

Nice job Tiny,

Looks very professional. As for the paint job just take it slow, one light coat at a time and let it dry inbetween coats. I first added a primer coat before starting the final color and then added about 4 coats of black. It will still scratch if it's bumped or rubbed across something but that's not to hard to touch up, note all the stickers I have on my canister. LOL

I wish I had a lathe and a press. It would have made things a lot easire. I have a table saw, drill press and lots of hand tools so I had to make due with that. If you get the chance, please post some pictures on the MSN site for others to see and give a little discription of what you did.

I finally did a full burn test of my 12v 7Ah battery last week on a night dive. I got about 60 minutes of full light and about another 15 minutes of fading light before I turned it off. I'm running a 50 watt lamp as well. I don't usually get that much bottom time on a normal dive so it was plenty for me.

Keep us posted on the results of the first dive test.

The Goodman handle is really easy to make. A flat piece of .063 Aluminum cut to about 1 inch wide and the length of the width of your closed fist. Lay the light head on the strip and mark two spots on each side of the light head, one near the front edge and the other near the back edge of the strip as far under the edge of the light head handle as you can reach. Drill these out to form two slots on each side wide enough for a zip tie (or wire tie). Drill another hole, one at either end of the strip that you can incert some sergical tubing and make a loop with the tubing to hold the strip to your hand. Place the light head on the strip and zip tie it in place nice and tight. The ties will hold the head to the strip and then you can slide it over you hand for hands free operation. It's simple and easy to make, light weight and can be removed easiely if needed. I'll post some pictures of the one I made when I get home. I'm out of town until Friday so I can't do anything until then.

 

[Tiny Bubbles]

........... I first added a primer coat before starting the final color and then added about 4 coats of black. It will still scratch if it's bumped or rubbed across something...............

I'm using a primer coat, then some aluminum-colored paint, and finally some clear coat for mag-wheels. The clear coat is what's so unforgiving. I didn't know this, but I do now, you can't 'touch up' anything after that clear coat dries. No new paint will stick to it. I tried sanding down just one spot, and shooting it again, and the new paint just crinkled up all over the old clear coat. Then it was a royal mess. It ALL has to be sanded completely off if any one spot needs repainting. The same thing happens if I try shooting a 2nd coat of the clearcoat, if the 1st coat has dried (takes a while for that though). Just roughing it up with sandpaper doesn't help any. The clear coat has to be completely removed before any new paint will lie down on it.

The mag-wheel clear coat is pretty durable. It will not scratch as easily as a plain painted PVC pipe. If I can ever get a satisfactory finish, that is. I've been told that baking it in the oven (at a conservative temperature like 120'F so as not to melt or distort the PVC) will make the finish even tougher. But I haven't tried that yet.

tiny-B.

 

[Padipro]

Tiny,

Sounds like you might be trying to spray Lacquer over Enamel. It seems that a lot of the clear coat paints are Lacquer based and this will cause the Enamel paint to "orange peal" or crinkle when the clear coat is spraid on. It may not happen over the entire painted area, it seems to depend on the thickness of the clear coat. Although when you apply the second coat of clear that will cause other areas to orange peal. You can spray Enamel over Lacquer but not Lacquer over Enamel.

 

[Tiny Bubbles]

Padipro, I could be wrong, but I don't believe that the clear mag wheel paint is lacquer based. The 1st coat of clear did lay down nicely on top of the enamel color coat every time. I just can't touch anything up after it dries because the next paint that touches it will crinkle. I'll try it again and just be more careful next time.

 

[Water Bear]

@PadiPro
I took a look at the pics on MSN...a really nice job!
I was wondering if you would be kind enough to post a list of materials and maybe a recommended source or two...specifically what those square batteries are and where to get them...and the stainless latches
Thanx

***UPDATED****
Never mind I found the messages on the MSN site

 

[Padipro]

@PadiPro
I took a look at the pics on MSN...a really nice job!
I was wondering if you would be kind enough to post a list of materials and maybe a recommended source or two...specifically what those square batteries are and where to get them...and the stainless latches
Thanx

***UPDATED****
Never mind I found the messages on the MSN site

Thanks,

Take a look in the documents section of the MSN site and the instructions are there for both the light and the camera housing along with the list of parts and a few web sites you can go to get them. Links to these sites are posted in the links section as well.

I got this info from another board member for the SS latches.

"I have since found an even better source and
would like to pass it on to you. There is a place just in the next town from me. It is called Ken R. Humke Co. the phone number there is 1-800-824-3369, ask for Roxanne. The stainless latches are the same as what we have both been using for various housings, part number HC204SST and I can get them for $3.03 each including the strikers (catches). Take care bro and have a great day!!"

Try this and see what they can do for you.

 

[Water Bear]

@PadiPro I can't seem to get that 683K .doc to open could u email it to me?

 

[Padipro]

For the hose clamp cover check out Reef Scuba Accessories. For the screw cover it's just a piece of clear vinal tubing slipped over the clamp. No sharp edges to cut or wear on the equipment with this installed.

 

[bcsean]

Well guys, I've been following this thread for awhile, and just got started in on it.

I built the head with a maglite, but had no issues with the groove up front. I've read padipro's document saying the o-ring should be about half way down in the groove with the light in there, and mine was. I am using a 50W Philips covered halogen. It's called teh Continuum FLOOD.

This was definitely a time saver. I cut the maglite in half yesterday and JB welded it together. I also found a friend who works with electrical stuff and he found me wire like the Dive Rite uncompressable wire. I'm picking it up today and then ordering the appropriat sealcon pieces.

Now time to start figuring out the canister. Heading to the local electrical wholesale store this week to rumage through and get the appropriate SLA batteries. Planning on building a battery pack that's 12V, 8-9 AH.