Undoubtely the best diving is Vanuatu is on Santo island. the pres Coolidge wreck is a must do in a diver's lifetime, although I am very much more of a coral reef diver and not at all a wreck diver, I was flabbergasted with the dives which can be deep and/or very deep.
I used Allan Power's which is the historical dive centre on the Coolidge, this is a relaxed dive center with that Vanuatu flavor for friendliness and happiness. If you want a more organized, bigger dive center, Aquamarine will be your bet. There is another dive center on Luganville which doesn't have neither the experience of Allan Power nor the organization skills of Aquamarine... pick your choice.
Resorts : Aore resort is probably one of the most comfortable a the problem might be that you are tucked on Aore island facing Santo, hence I personally prefer having my freedom to move around and downtown so my pick would be Deco Stop, which is less fancy though comfy enough overlooking segond channel.
The hosts Ben & Kim are very helpful and may give you plenty of tips for organizing trips around the island.
One of the major drawbacks in Santo is that there not many restaurants and the ones which are open are further from a hit than a miss. The french flair for cooking is missing since they are gone. Hence one of the option for dinner is going to the market to get a cheap plate of steak at one of the stalls.
You can rent good Korean 4WD at Laho car rental and go around to Champagne beacj or Port Olry where the beaches are truly magnificent, it takes two hours drive from Luganville. With detailed information you get from Ben, it is easy to drive yourself to the blue hole too.
Port Vila and Efate now.
Many of the australian owned hotels are overpriced. I like very much staying at european held places like the cozy Fatumaru lodge, the rooms are tastefully decorated, the people are really nice and their breakfast is delicious, I couldn't believe the quality of the croissants (I am french living in Paris btw, I think I am qualified on this aspect
). From Port vila you can go diving with Nautilus dive club, the oldest dive operation in Vanuatu, they were already there at the time I was a kid growing up in the ex-New Hebrides, more than 30 years ago. Paul's Rock is probably the best dive site.
I spent Three days in Moso island at Tranquility Dive Resort. My opinion : FORGET IT.
It is almost a scam on what they charge for what you get. The bungalows are REALLY basic, they are not cleaned up whie your stay, the food is incredibly mundane and unisnpired, steak sandwich at every meal. The diving was conducted amateurishly by newbie european/american instructors, only the local dive guides where of only experience but with the typical nivan shyness. I am asking : HOW IS THIS OPERATION SPENDING THE MONEY I PAID THEM????
In the middle of Mele bay 15 minutes drive from Port Vila, HideAway island resort is a professionnally organized dive center and a long time favorite weekend stay for the local middle class, unfortunately the dive sites are not very interesting totally devasted by a crown of thorns invasion, though it maybe a pleasant place to stay for two/three nights.
Another favorite not so far from downtown is Le Lagon hotel at Erakor lagoon, very nice settings. Probably the best resort on Efate an dthe closest to a genuine 5* would be Eratap resort. But it is quite expensive (say 400USD per Villa per night) and located quite far away from town (20 minutes drive), good if you want seclusion for a few nights.
What would I say about Vanuatu?
I love the country and the people, I grew up there hence I am a bit biased. I didn't go back for 30years until last year, although i haven't forgotten my bislama language. I was moved with how the country evolved, good or bad, on te good side, nivan people are always the same, on the not so good side, some expatriate people are obviously here to make money and rush back home, hence you might find very low price/quality operations if you are not selective (Won't name them). Others are respectful and striving to get the best out of a fantastic environment (Deco Stop, Fatumaru, Allan Power,..) .
I hate to say it but I don't think Vanuatu is a worldclass dive spot except for Santo and the Coolidge,though it's worth a visit as there are many other attractions like for instance the Yasur Volcano which is UNIQUE at night : staying for sunset on the rim of eh volcani is a moment you will remember all your life. bring a bottle of champagne and two glasses with your loved one, the first time you do it! The most comfortable options in Tanna would be Evergreen or Whitegrass resort.
hope this helps.
