OldNSalty - I apologize for the bs/drama that has derailed your thread.
James, let's bury the hatchet.
I think we agree that doubles are a great tool even for rec diving if chosen and set-up properly. However, they can also be an aggravating curse if they are the wrong tanks for a certain physique or if they are rigged improperly on your back.
If a diver is head-heavy in a singles rig, we shift the tank towards the tail and the problem is solved. We cannot do that with doubles as we would not be able to reach the manifold anymore. This, plus the fact that doubles are a little head heavier due to the manifold makes the choice of tanks and proper set-up critical.
The most common problem is when people go from vertical to horizontal in doubles they will reach a point where the 'fall on their head' before they reach horizontal trim. Ankle weights are a very poor way to solve this problem that should not exist in the first place. Obviously, many divers choose that quick fix and their instructors do not stop them and suggest better options. Diving in a 20 degree nose up position is also not an effective way to deal with the issue and becomes a serious problem if we operate in close, silty quarters or have to do tie-offs. (My personal goal for a great set of tanks is 10 degrees nose down and stable without finning) Again, too few instructors insist on full trim control.
I started the brew ha ha by suggesting to ask a GUE instructor for help as I KNOW that everyone of these will get it right. Obviously, there are many more instructors out there that understand the physics of the problem and can help OldNSalty and others who are interested in trying doubles.
Here is a recipe that worked for me and many others I dive with. YMMV, take this with a grain of salt as I do not have much practical experience, and double check with your instructor.
Firstly, pick the right tanks. Roughly speaking, tall people need tall tanks and short people short tanks. But there are nuances in the weight distribution of different types and manufacturers. An experienced instructor should be able to look at you and make a good suggestion of what works and what does not. Don't just buy something that is cheap on craigslist.
Secondly, the manifold should be approximately at the same height than the top of your shoulders. If it is lower, you will have grief reaching the valves. A reliable way to do this with multiple tank sets is to band the tanks with about 6" between the center line of the manifold and the top attachment bolt (I use a dollar bill as a gauge). Then, adjust your backplate harness to put the manifold at top of shoulder height. This way, all tanks sets will be positioned the same way.
To get the trim perfect, you can then experiment with a tail weight or with changes in your undergarments. Example: With my HP100s that are a tad head heavy (because I should really use longer 120s) I have to add a fleece vest to get them trimmed. Adding more lead on the tail does not make sense as they are already negative enough. But adding buoyancy to the torso solves the head heaviness nicely and keeps me warm where the 100s get me.
The fine-tuning requires that you can feel when the trim is right. Again, this is were a good instructor is invaluable. If at some point you prefer doubles over singles (except for humping them to the water) you have figured it out.
Now, we only need to understand the failure modes and practice the correct response to take advantage of the redundancy of manifolded doubles. Another job for a good instructor.