Diverite wing failure

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For sure, I am an absolute fan of Dive Rite. It's made my diving experience exponentially enjoyable, I just was concerned about this failure point. How many dives did your wife's wing have on it before this happened? Was Dave concerned about it? Or did it seem like it was a no big deal sorta thing?

It was about a year old, maybe 40 dives or so. We got onto a sailboat the following day for a week, and there wasn't much in the way of O-ring availability in the Abacos. I made an O-ring out of rescue tape one afternoon after a few cocktails and it worked fine, so a simple fix.

Dive Rite (can't remember who I talked to) said the caps are usually on really tight and a wrench is needed to remove. Maybe they thought the caps were getting over tightened and backed off a bit

I definitely agree Dive Rite gear has made diving exponentially more enjoyable, for both my wife and me. She couldn't care less about dive equipment, but will rave on about how great her Dive Rite gear is :) We got certified in 1994, got our Dive Rite rigs in 2011, and have over half our career dives since getting into Dive Rite setups (we did dive every year since originally getting certified)

...Pull dump- too many failure points. If that diaphragm at the back gets a nick in it, or you are going through a silty situation or it gets sand in there and doesn't seal properly, then you have a leak the whole time of both incoming water and outgoing air. Bad news bears.
Technically yes, the elbow can crack, but there is a lot less plastic, and the plastic is a lot thicker so it is less likely to crack given the same forces.

The convenience factor is negated when you learn to dump your wing properly which is when people realize they don't need to pick the damn thing over their head. Also puts a lot less strain on your wing since you aren't yanking on it to dump.

The Dive Rite web site for their wings says "Comes equipped with choice of 16-inch or 12-inch elbow or 16-inch rapid exhaust (pull dump) ...". If I was in to technical diving, I would eliminate failure points, but I'm a recreational diver, so I just check the cap for tightness periodically and enjoy the convenience as a conscientious tradeoff I make
 
this is not a failure.....

the failure was in checking equipment pre-dive.....
 
I don't own a wing - but for those talking about glue and locktite - I am not sure that is the right answer. I unscrew my BCD hoses after every dive and flush the hose as well as the bladder - and I am training my son to do the same. I am not saying you could not use glue (it is your equipment) - but I am thinking gluing something that was not meant to be permanently locked in - IMO is not the answer to this problem.
I think a check is in order and a cleaning after every dive is a good thing and check after you put it back together.
 
yeah, this thread title needs to be understood as an inflator problem, the wing has no issues. Also, be VERY careful with gorilla glue as it expands when it dries, blue locktite maybe on the bottommost threads, but there is really no added convenience, at the beginning of the dive you're heavy enough that you don't need to dump all of the air out anyway, and you shouldn't be using it underwater ever. On ascent when you are venting, you shouldn't use it either because it causes you to slinky up the water column instead of maintaining a stead ascent rate. The only time it should ever be used is on the initial descent, but even then, it doesn't do a whole lot.

No point in removing wing hoses, doesn't do anything. Just stick the hose in the oral inflator and fill the wing about 25% of the way with water, slosh it around, and bleed out of the rear dump. Much better way of ensuring all the water is out and that the dump and inflator button is clean.
 
so, you never answered the question.. It was not a Dive Rite failure at all. It was a loose fitting that you failed to check.. Very common to happen and other components can come unscrewed as well. Rather than gluing something, why not just learn to check it?

Actually, that is not at ALL what I said. I have no clue if this was a loose fitting since, as I DID say, I have zero clue when it happened. All I DID know was that it wasn't there when I went to put together my gear. There was no reason for me to unscrew it and open that mechanism up and, after 30 dives, I can't see how that piece could have possibly come off on it's own. As I DID say in an earlier post, I really enjoy their gear. I own two diverite wings so when I got home and looked at my other wing I was able to unscrew and screw that piece and it's not like it's 2 threads. It would take a lot of work to unscrew it until it fell off. I assume that someone, in some place in the world is screwing these things on and my concern was that someone with less experience might not have fared so well in this dive situation simply because an assembler didn't take another minute to screw that piece in the remainder of the way.

You can rest assured that this certainly has taught me a lesson to check the tightness of any parts that unscrew prior to diving. The locktight/gorilla glue suggestion was from the dive shop that regularly services gear. It wasn't just something I pulled out of my ass and to be honest, it's not really that bad of an idea.

---------- Post added August 5th, 2014 at 05:29 PM ----------

Also, I'm just going to get rid of the shoulder dump. I never use it anyways. Makes sense to just get the ebow like everyone has suggested and just not have to worry about it.
 
You can rest assured that this certainly has taught me a lesson to check the tightness of any parts that unscrew prior to diving.

Also, I'm just going to get rid of the shoulder dump. I never use it anyways. Makes sense to just get the ebow like everyone has suggested and just not have to worry about it.

If you do a proper sequence of checks prior to every dive, you will discover almost any problems likely to encounter. Assemble all gear and attach inflator hose. turn on tank. listen for leaks. observe SPG for correct starting PSI. Inflate BC. Check that BC is actually inflating. Inflate until OPV activates. Momentarily pull each dump valve to make sure it A) dumps and B) re-seals. Listen for leaks at elbow and LP connection. deflate wing with inflator button to check it works too. Put main reg in your mouth and takes several full breaths while watching your SPG. Do it again with your Octo. If the SPG needle moves you have either a 1st stage problem or your tank valve is only turned on a little bit. Look at each buckle and make sure it connects, locks, and isn't cracked or broken.

All of that only takes about a minute and will prevent most diving with problem gear.
 
Ditch the inflator hose pull dump. Think mayhem guy on Allstate commercial. Replace it with an elbow.
 
Actually, that is not at ALL what I said. I have no clue if this was a loose fitting since, as I DID say, I have zero clue when it happened. All I DID know was that it wasn't there when I went to put together my gear. There was no reason for me to unscrew it and open that mechanism up and, after 30 dives, I can't see how that piece could have possibly come off on it's own. As I DID say in an earlier post, I really enjoy their gear. I own two diverite wings so when I got home and looked at my other wing I was able to unscrew and screw that piece and it's not like it's 2 threads. It would take a lot of work to unscrew it until it fell off. I assume that someone, in some place in the world is screwing these things on and my concern was that someone with less experience might not have fared so well in this dive situation simply because an assembler didn't take another minute to screw that piece in the remainder of the way.

You can rest assured that this certainly has taught me a lesson to check the tightness of any parts that unscrew prior to diving. The locktight/gorilla glue suggestion was from the dive shop that regularly services gear. It wasn't just something I pulled out of my ass and to be honest, it's not really that bad of an idea.

---------- Post added August 5th, 2014 at 05:29 PM ----------

Also, I'm just going to get rid of the shoulder dump. I never use it anyways. Makes sense to just get the ebow like everyone has suggested and just not have to worry about it.


I didn't understand what you said. The picture showing the piece in place might have added to my confusion. So what happened was, a plastic threaded piece of your BC completely fell off the BC. You failed to notice this and then dove with the piece missing and then the BC did not work.

This seems to contradict with the statement that "it wasn't there when you went to set up the gear... wouldn't you set up the gear before the dive. If it was missing on setup.. then you shouldn't have dove with it and expected it to work, right?

I'm still confused, but if you don't use a pull dump on the inflator, then a simple elbow would make more sense..
 
WP_20140806_001.jpg

I think he's saying it ended up looking like that when he dove. This is a rather old version, so I don't know if the internals have changed, but that's what it looks like when the cap is removed and the mushroom valve falls out. Swap to an elbow and be done with it.
 
OK, if I understand correctly what happened (and tbone helped with the picture), you are saying that the cap on the inflator came unscrewed. Correct?

DR valve cap.jpg

1. Notwithstanding some of the comments, what you experienced WAS a gear (inflator) failure. It was compounded by human error, but it qualifies as a gear failure. That doesn’t necessarily mean the gear was defective. That doesn’t mean it was improperly assembled / tightened at the time of manufacture, although that is possible. As Jim Wyatt said, ‘s**t happens’. It is quite possible that the cap was damaged at some point (days, weeks) before it came off – a cylinder falling on the valve could cause a small crack to develop, and loosen the tightness of the fit. With the DR dump inflator, the cap simply coming unscrewed is EXTREMELY rare. Those caps are screwed on VERY tight. But, it is not impossible. Maybe the person assembling that valve suffered a hand spasm just as they were screwing it on. Maybe they cross-threaded it. As Jim also said, it would be good to let DR know, for quality control purposes. There should / may be a serial number on the wing, which may help DR track the assembly of the particular unit.

2. You have been appropriately beaten about the head and shoulders for failure to conduct a proper pre-dive safety check, during which you would have tested the wing, and (probably) the shoulder dump. I was off the NC coast last Thursday, turned back Friday before reaching the dive site, and didn’t get out Saturday or Sunday because of sea conditions. So, I feel your pain (or nausea, as the case may be) and I can see a situation developing where the pre-dive check was pushed aside in the rush to get in the water before the hurling competition got into high gear. Still, that failure was a good example of how serious accidents ultimately develop – it is not one ‘big’ thing, it is usually a series of ‘small’, seemingly insignificant, things that make up the accident chain. Lesson learned.

3. Loctite (Threadlocker) is not the answer. Gorilla Glue definitely is not the answer. Both are completely unnecessary with gear that is properly assembled and maintained in proper working condition, and not otherwise damaged. I see divers bring gear into the shop where I feel like I need a hydraulic wrench to get a part unscrewed – that shouldn’t be that difficult. When I ask them about it they often say, ‘Oh another shop where I had a problem fixed told me they used some Loctite.’ Maybe the customer actually did it themselves and wants to blame the other shop. Loctite may seem to be a solution when the cap is actually cracked, and doesn’t tighten properly, or when the threads have been damaged from misuse. In reality, it isn’t. The answer there is to replace the damaged parts.

4. Replacing the valve with a simple elbow is a reasonable recommendation. Shoulder dumps are unnecessary if a diver is properly trimmed, and has a corrugated hose of proper length. I do frequently use butt dumps, but they are simple, and I am not potentially damaging a corrugated hose when I use them, as I would be with the shoulder dump. In fairness, I still have shoulder dumps on a couple of wings (that I bought used). But, I never use them so I haven’t run the risk of damaging the hose, nor do I feel any necessity to pre-emptively replace them. But, newer divers, particularly student divers, seem to want to yank on the hose to activate the shoulder dump – to the extent that we have taken the wire out of most of our pool BCDs that originally come with shoulder dumps.
 
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