Diverite back dump valve string broke

[Schwim]

Was dumping air and the string pulled right out of the valve assembly. Not to worry, it stayed competent. It would seem like a simple fix but I can't get into the assembly after I unscrewed it from the (Venture) wing. Any hints on how to disassemble the valve housing, or do I need to bring/ship it in?

Thanks,
Schwim

 

[cool_hardware52]

Was dumping air and the string pulled right out of the valve assembly. Not to worry, it stayed competent. It would seem like a simple fix but I can't get into the assembly after I unscrewed it from the (Venture) wing. Any hints on how to disassemble the valve housing, or do I need to bring/ship it in?

Thanks,
Schwim

Schwim,

Over pressure valves have three threaded parts. Starting from the outside there is the cage or outer cover, next is a "nut" that has male threads on it's outer diameter, and female threads on its inner diameter. Last is a flanged "T" nut that is inside the bladder sticks through the bladder and outer nylon bag.

It is quite common for the first to pieces, the outer cage and the nut to stick together and unscrew as a unit from the "T" nut.

It is possible to grip the lower edge of the nut with a large pair of chanel lock (water pump pliers). Use care as it's also quite possible to scar up the lower sealing surface of the nut.

Frequently salt crystals can form in these threads, soaking in hot fresh water can help.


Once you get the cage loose from the nut the internals are pretty simple. Make sure to test after reassembly.


Good luck, feel free to PM me if you have other questions.



Regards,




Tobin

 

[Schwim]

Schwim,

Over pressure valves have three threaded parts. Starting from the outside there is the cage or outer cover, next is a "nut" that has male threads on it's outer diameter, and female threads on its inner diameter. Last is a flanged "T" nut that is inside the bladder sticks through the bladder and outer nylon bag.

It is quite common for the first to pieces, the outer cage and the nut to stick together and unscrew as a unit from the "T" nut.

It is possible to grip the lower edge of the nut with a large pair of chanel lock (water pump pliers). Use care as it's also quite possible to scar up the lower sealing surface of the nut.

Frequently salt crystals can form in these threads, soaking in hot fresh water can help.


Once you get the cage loose from the nut the internals are pretty simple. Make sure to test after reassembly.


Good luck, feel free to PM me if you have other questions.



Regards,




Tobin

Thanks Tobin, That's all I needed to know. Wasn't sure if there was another set of stuck threads or a permanently fused unit. I'll do as you suggested and report back.
Schwim

 

[Schwim]

As you said. The repair was easy once I got the housing unscrewed. Just tied a new knot in the end of the string.

 

[cool_hardware52]

As you said. The repair was easy once I got the housing unscrewed. Just tied a new knot in the end of the string.

Glad to hear it, makes me feel occasionally useful.


Regards,


Tobin

 

[RICHinNC]

schwim...
One thing I have added to my save a dive kit is a can of "plastic" lubricant.

I have a DR Rec wing and both the lower dump and inflator hose plastic pieces
had "FUZED" together. Ended up destroying the plastic piece that screws to the bcd using channel locks to get it off.

But on the dump valve...I went to Lowes or Home Depot and looked around for a plastic friendly equivalent to penetrating oil. Found it. I sprayed that stuff on the dump valve and let it set and sprayed some more and it came off pretty easy. It may be over kill...but I plan to spray that pretty good then use one turn of plumbers tape to see if that will help prevent sticking. Plus clean realllllll good after every dive.

rich

 

[cool_hardware52]

schwim...
One thing I have added to my save a dive kit is a can of "plastic" lubricant.

I have a DR Rec wing and both the lower dump and inflator hose plastic pieces
had "FUZED" together. Ended up destroying the plastic piece that screws to the bcd using channel locks to get it off.

But on the dump valve...I went to Lowes or Home Depot and looked around for a plastic friendly equivalent to penetrating oil. Found it. I sprayed that stuff on the dump valve and let it set and sprayed some more and it came off pretty easy. It may be over kill...but I plan to spray that pretty good then use one turn of plumbers tape to see if that will help prevent sticking. Plus clean realllllll good after every dive.

rich

Rich,

Sounds like good ideas, but it's very hard to prevent the large "Nut" from becoming stuck in the outer cage. The problem is the relative size of the threads. The inner flanged piece has threads on it about 1" in diameter, and the Outer cage has threads of about 1.85" in diameter. The likelyhood of the smaller threads turning before the larger threads, even if all is lubed and not frozen is small. That's been my experience anyway.

The same fitting is used for the fill hose, but here the elbow can be used to prevent the smaller threads from turning.

I'd be interested in your results.



Regards,



Tobin

 

[RICHinNC]

Hey Cool....

Understand all you say. Just gotta give it a try. I know the results if I leave it status quo !! I will keep you posted....thats the good news....but ...and the bad news...with my job it will be a long time before I do a lot of dives in a row.

Take care...
rich

 

[RICHinNC]

Thats interesting..... I just noticed....my first post was listed as post 943....and so was my second post listed as 943....

Doesnt seem like I am moving along in time...arggg
rich

wonder what # this post will be????

 

[RICHinNC]

ok...sorry schwim...but this is starting to bug me...

I post an answer to a previous post and the numbers are the same. I make comment and as i save the post # changes....

Then, I go out of the thread all together...to a completely diff web site...come back and all the DIFFERENT posts have the same number.....whats up with that.??

rich