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got to agree with you, I was in malta in August ,great place the people are very friendly and once you are Advanced or above you can hire tank and weight and do your own thing , had one 84 min dive ranging from 17m to about 5 on the Corolita, I would recomend anyong diving there get G Lemons bood "Diving Malta Gozo and Comino. also there is a lot of shore diving. I have seen more life in the canaries but I will be back to Malta esp when I get my 2 kids diving
I got all my tanks form Diveshack.
Yep as you say you are responsible for your own safety
Tip for diving abroad if you are going without the guide never leave the center without checking there is air in the tanks ,dive centrers get very busy and it only takes one customer leaving a tank in the wrong place an you get a 50 bar fill.