DIN vs. Yoke

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letterboy

I'm the reasonable one
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Ok so i have a couple of thoughts. . . first why is it that alot of fill stations charge a dollar more to fill a din than a yoke???

Anyway on to the real reason for this post, What are your feelings on DIN vs Yoke? i currently have a PST tank that can be made into DIN by removing the center piece on the valve. I get the whole yoke squezes the o-ring and that it is more prone to failure at high pressures, but how much more prone? And how much does it cost gennerally to convert yoke regs to DIN?

I hope my question is clear,

John
 
jhbryaniv:
Ok so i have a couple of thoughts. . . first why is it that alot of fill stations charge a dollar more to fill a din than a yoke???

Anyway on to the real reason for this post, What are your feelings on DIN vs Yoke? i currently have a PST tank that can be made into DIN by removing the center piece on the valve. I get the whole yoke squezes the o-ring and that it is more prone to failure at high pressures, but how much more prone? And how much does it cost gennerally to convert yoke regs to DIN?

I hope my question is clear,

John

I have never heard of that. Wow.

The price depends on your reg and the price for the kit. For a friends Scubapro, it was like $35 and we did it in 5 minutes. For my Atomic, it was a little more.

Its worth it, IMO. I have PST tanks, I dive DIN. Its easy to get on and take off, lower profile, less hardware, more secure.

Its just a better way to go. I hate (j)yoke fittings. Can you tell???

K
 
which atomic do u dive? (i have the B2) never heard of what them charging more? Thats the way it is in Pa, at bainbridge

John
 
jhbryaniv:
which atomic do u dive? (i have the B2) never heard of what them charging more? Thats the way it is in Pa, at bainbridge

John

Never heard of a place charging more for a DIN fill over a (j)yoke fill. Just keep the plug in, get it filled as a (j)yoke, then pull it out and dive it as a DIN. Me so smart.
K
 
jhbryaniv:
Ok so i have a couple of thoughts. . . first why is it that alot of fill stations charge a dollar more to fill a din than a yoke???

Anyway on to the real reason for this post, What are your feelings on DIN vs Yoke? i currently have a PST tank that can be made into DIN by removing the center piece on the valve. I get the whole yoke squezes the o-ring and that it is more prone to failure at high pressures, but how much more prone? And how much does it cost gennerally to convert yoke regs to DIN?

I hope my question is clear,

John

There are a million posts about this topic in the archives. I would suggest doing a search.

And about your two burning questions: The evidence is cut and dry in favour of DIN. For any kind of technical or overhead diving you would be insane to use yoke fittings. For puddlestomping it's not a big deal but if you dive a lot you *will* have a problem at some point.

Converting most regs to DIN is a simple questino of unscrewing the yoke clamp and replacing it with a DIN fitting. Costs vary but the part you need may run around $50 depending on your reg. The conversion takes 2 min. and don't forget to keep the old A clamp for travelling.

R..
 
Here in Egypt the most used is the yoke, But I prefer using DIN it is safer in the high pressure, If you have DIN reg and you come to dive in the Red Sea. I recommend that you keep with you the adaptor that convert from DIN to yoke, because there are some diving centers don't have DIN tanks.

They fill both Yoke and DIN with the same charge.
 
DIN is arguably better, but the "sky is falling" reaction often presented in regard to the hazards of yoke valves is a massive overstatement of risk, at least in terms of diving in environments that do not include a hard overhead.

I have approx 1700 total dives, the majority of which were done with 1 or 2 yoke valves on board and I have yet to have a serious problem. The only issues are the ocassional (maybe once every 100-130 dives) occurrence of a very small leak from a bad o-ring that I should have checked and changed anyway. None of these occurences posed any threat to the safe and normal conmpletion of a dive.

I am slowly converting all 24 tanks that I own to DIN/K valves as DIN does make more sense and in hard overhead environments is arguably a neccessity due to the potential of valves/first stages getting banged around. DIN valves are generally a cleaner and less snag prone configuration in normal open water and soft overhead environments as well. Once all my tanks are converted, all the regs will be converted, but until then I am not worried about using yoke valves in soft overhead environments and am obviously not real concerned with getting the conversion process done tomorrow and will continue upgrading a few tanks every now and then.

Convertible DIN/K valves are about the only convenient option in some places due to the abscence in some shops of whips dedicated to DIN fills. It's an easy matter to install the insert and have your 2250 to 3300 psi tank filled as a regular yoke valved tank.

As for converting a reg to DIN, and then traveling to points where you need a yoke equipped reg, you have three options.

1) Convert it to DIN and then use a yoke adapter. The upside is convenience the downside is that it adds some lenght to the reg whihc can make it easier to hit it with your head.

2) Re-convert it back to a yoke configuration using the old parts. Simple and quick to do if you have access to a yoke nut socket and torque wrench, and to convert it back to DIN, a suitable sized allen socket. A bad idea however if you lack the proper tools but still do it yourself. I see people who have done this conversion with a large cresent wrench which creates the potential to undertorqe the retainer nut, potentially causing the nut to loosen and leak. Alternatively and sometimes subsequently, they crank on the retainer nut with the big cresent wrench and over torque it. These are also the folks that end up complaining about cracks in the first stage bodies and who then like to blame and bash the reg manufacturer for it.

3) buy another reg for traveling.
 
DA Aquamaster:
. I see people who have done this conversion with a large cresent wrench which creates the potential to undertorqe the retainer nut, potentially causing the nut to loosen and leak. Alternatively and sometimes subsequently, they crank on the retainer nut with the big cresent wrench and over torque it. These are also the folks that end up complaining about cracks in the first stage bodies and who then like to blame and bash the reg manufacturer for it.

3) buy another reg for traveling.

you forgot the part where the wrench slips and takes a gouge out of the yoke facing so it no longer seals on the O-ring.
:11:

I've never heard of a higher price for a DIN fill. Possible rationales (someone else can defend them):

1. More labor to set up the whip for DIN.
2. Its really a charge for HP fills - you are getting more gas or stressing the compressor more.

Why don't you ask them why?
 
My local shop charges more for DIN fills than yoke, and that's because of the HP assumption. They don't charge me more for my LP cylinders with DIN valves.

Though they're marginally better at sealing, where DIN valves really shine is the lack of an entanglement hazard sticking out behind you in the form of a big yoke knob.

Roak
 
Din is a better system, no questions about it.. If you dive a few times a year or on vacation, its better to have a yoke as most places I know of do not offer rental tanks with din fittings. I do alot of local diving with my own tanks so I have din setup. So it really depends where and how frequent you dive. If you have HP steel tanks I really recommend a din because of the higher working pressure..
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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