Difficulty Reaching Loop Bungee???

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OK, so stupid question.... do you leave the boltsnap attached whilst in the water, at the same time as the loop bungee is attached or do you unclip from the shoulder D ring and let it "hang" from the cylinder during the dive?

Yes, the boltsnaps are attached to a chest D-ring throughout the dive, once they are attached I don't even notice them. The Loop Bungees are then stretched over the valves, bringing them tight against the body. The boltsnap/leash provides an extra measure of security in case a bungee ever failed and allows a cylinder to be attached to my rig before the bungees are stretched.

The image below depicts my setup using the Armadillo with cave-filled Faber 85s/95s, but everything is routed the same way in my Manta or Stealth. Actually, I'm using the Stealth for everything now...

Dave
 

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OK, so stupid question.... do you leave the boltsnap attached whilst in the water, at the same time as the loop bungee is attached or do you unclip from the shoulder D ring and let it "hang" from the cylinder during the dive?

If i'm walking on the surface, i use a loop of chord around the neck, and connect it with a double ender to the D ring, leaving the loop bungee un-attached..... once in the water, i unclip the double ender, remove it from the loop and stow on my butt D ring, then attach the loop bungee...... at the end of the dive, reverse the process.... detach loop bungee, re-clip chord around cylinder neck to shoulder D ring with double ender.

This way i have the security of a solid connection on the surface, no dangly bits in the water and benefits of loop bungee not being hindered by a solid connection point, during the dive phase.....


That's how it should be done imho... The less staying there, the better.
 
That's how it should be done imho... The less staying there, the better.

My suspicion is you dive al80s mostly. In al80s there's really no need to have neck chokers. If a bungee breaks its easy to deal with. With heavy steels the chances of a broken bungee are there and in a cave it could be a silty mess if a steel drops free. The chokers that are being described really aren't any sort of entanglement hazard and I think are smart when diving steels. I still use them with al80s just for consistency, but they're absolutely unnecessary.
 
I've been using steel tanks for a few days (6 dives), still found it best without the clip.

I don't believe it's entanlement hasard, simply put:
- when tanks are holding through such big loops, they'll be hanging terribly when walking
- if it breaks underwater, it can't fall further away than 15-30cm anyway (length of hoses), so even though it would give a nice pull on my reg, it'd still be manageable.
- 8mm bungee doesn't simply break without giving a call imho. Very little force applies on them.
- tanks underwater are quite easy to manage, dunno what kind of stuff americans seem to be using, but faber 12.2l @230bar aren't that heavy (I still didn't like them that much, but haven't had the chance to try a fix, and they've been reported to work perfectly and easy to handle)
- When clipped, I can't pull the tank away to check my regs, which, again is my opinion, are more likely to have issues than a piece of bungee. Or I'd have to use massive loops, see point 1

So I believe I, and most people, don't need them, and that isn't tank related. Then again, I'll be honest, I haven't tried to put that kind of loops, maybe someone would be able to convince me, but not with the bungee breaking thing.



I still don't get the difference between the "fancy" triglides having a metal loop and a simple piece of bungee put under a normal triglide (heck, cave line would probably work as well), except that they're harder to source (but maybe slightly more durable). Yet people still seem to show them as the only solution.:confused:
 
I've been using steel tanks for a few days (6 dives), still found it best without the clip.

I don't believe it's entanlement hasard, simply put:
- when tanks are holding through such big loops, they'll be hanging terribly when walking
- if it breaks underwater, it can't fall further away than 15-30cm anyway (length of hoses), so even though it would give a nice pull on my reg, it'd still be manageable.
- 8mm bungee doesn't simply break without giving a call imho. Very little force applies on them.
- tanks underwater are quite easy to manage, dunno what kind of stuff americans seem to be using, but faber 12.2l @230bar aren't that heavy (I still didn't like them that much, but haven't had the chance to try a fix, and they've been reported to work perfectly and easy to handle)
- When clipped, I can't pull the tank away to check my regs, which, again is my opinion, are more likely to have issues than a piece of bungee. Or I'd have to use massive loops, see point 1

So I believe I, and most people, don't need them, and that isn't tank related. Then again, I'll be honest, I haven't tried to put that kind of loops, maybe someone would be able to convince me, but not with the bungee breaking thing.



I still don't get the difference between the "fancy" triglides having a metal loop and a simple piece of bungee put under a normal triglide (heck, cave line would probably work as well), except that they're harder to source (but maybe slightly more durable). Yet people still seem to show them as the only solution.:confused:

I've dove 12 liter tanks. They are much much lighter and easier to manage than many of the tanks florida cave divers use. There's different ideas that work for different places/diving. In cave diving we're minimizing the chances that a minor problem (broken bungee) doesn't become a major problem (silt out too)
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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