Differences: W-20 v. UWL-100 v. DCL-20 wide angle conversion lenses?

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Gombessa

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I'm sure this subject must have been asked before, but my searching capabilities are poor today.

Is there any difference between the W-20, UWL-100 type 2 or DCL-20? They all look similar on paper, and other than the dome accessory available on the UWL-100, I was wondering if there's anything you want to take into account while deciding between the three.

Thanks!
 
The Inon lenses seem to have a little better build quality but I certainly have nothing but cursory observations to support that. The Inon lenses will accept the dome conversion which alone significantly advances it beyond the other offerings restoring the full 130 to 160 degree FOV underwater. Depending upon the camera and the particular housing geometry (the lens must be very close to the rear element of the wet lens), the Inon lens with the dome port can produce a very nice image with some noticeable loss of focus in the corners (softening) occurring the farther the camera's lens is behind the rear element of the Inon wet lens until eventually vignetting becomes apparent.

N
 
Thanks a lot Nem. The dome port sounds intriguing, though for now I'd be pleased as punch just to restore a bit of wide-angle while submerged.
 
From my experience, I have found Inon lenses to be superior to Epoque lenses. I am not sure if we have been unfortunate, but the coating on Epoque lenses seems to deteriorate very quickly, affecting the image quite a lot, despite taking good care of the lens. So far, I have had my Inon UWL-100 lens 3 years without any problems occuring. To be fair though, I've not come accross other people with this problem.
 
The Inon lenses will accept the dome conversion which alone significantly advances it beyond the other offerings restoring the full 130 to 160 degree FOV underwater.

Can you give me some details on the dome conversion that you are referring to. I have a UWL-100 and use it wet on an Ike P&S housing (Nikon P5100). I assume the dome conversion is wet as well.
 
Can you give me some details on the dome conversion that you are referring to. I have a UWL-100 and use it wet on an Ike P&S housing (Nikon P5100). I assume the dome conversion is wet as well.

Yes and no, the dome conversion attaches via an adapter to the lens. It become a one piece unit. You cannot remove the dome underwater. It is semi-permanent once installed. It greatly improves the capability of the lens and a much wider field of view.

Inon Dome Lens Unit for UWL-100 [ino.165] - $389.00 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

N
 
Yes and no, the dome conversion attaches via an adapter to the lens. It become a one piece unit. You cannot remove the dome underwater. It is semi-permanent once installed. It greatly improves the capability of the lens and a much wider field of view.

Inon Dome Lens Unit for UWL-100 [ino.165] - $389.00 : Reef Photo & Video!, The Underwater Photo Pros

N

Nemrod: Thanks for the info. I was aware of that device, but was hoping that you had a less expensive option. Guess that before I dive with the whalesharks, I'll have to spring for the $$$.
 
Yeah, sorry, depending on what camera you have there could be those bubble lenses available from Fantasea though they are not nearly as wide.

I agree it is expensive, it is also nice quality, glass optically coated dome, anodized aluminum etc. For most it is overkill, the 100WAL without the dome is fun by itself and expensive enough.

N
 
Yes and no, the dome conversion attaches via an adapter to the lens. It become a one piece unit. You cannot remove the dome underwater. It is semi-permanent once installed. It greatly improves the capability of the lens and a much wider field of view.

Nemrod: Since it's a one piece unit with the lens, I assume that I can remove the lens from the housing UW along with the dome. Is that correct?? The lens is a 67 mm screw.

I have lens caddies on my strobe arms for my WA and marco lens. If this is correct, I may have to move my caddy to give me more space for the dome.

TIA.
 
My understanding is that there's a seal between the dome and the wide lens. As such, you treat them as a single underwater-mountable lens, so you can take the whole assembly off underwater, but you can't separate the dome from the wide lens until you're out of the water.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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