Review DGX 1000-6 The best light you’ve probably never heard of…

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Manatee Diver

Stop throwing lettuce at me!
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Earlier this year another one of my Dive Rite CX1s died, being that it was continued years ago I started a search to find new back up lights to replace it. I loved the CX1, it has a decent 1000 lumens output with a narrow 6-degree beam with a 3.5 hours runtime. The rear tail cap was easy to turn on while on the harness but was shielded so it rarely ever came on across the hundreds of dives I have with it. For a cave diver I felt it was a perfect back up light.

Realizing that the end of my time with the CX1s was near, I checked the market and ordered three lights that I felt would meets my needs similarly to the CX1. I chose the Dive Rite CX2, Orcatorch DC710, and the DGX 1000-6. For various reasons that I will outline below I eliminated the Dive Rite and the Orcatorch. That just left the DGX 1000-6. When I say that this is the best light you’ve never heard of, I mean sure most people know that DGX has their own lights. And their lights are recommended as values lights, but they were nothing to write home about. Though this light stands out as one of the best back up lights on the market, and most divers have probably never heard of it. As DGX doesn’t send out free samples to anyone and everyone or pay for reviews like some brands. Instead, they just released it out to the world with little fanfare.

The DGX 1000-6 is priced as a value light at only $89 at the time of this review, half the price of many of the competitors. You can go read the specs on the site but for me the reason I picked this light was for the tight beam with a reasonable output on medium for over 2.5 hours. My first test of this light I took it into the cave to see how well I liked the beam. The beam is like a laser, very bright with a reasonable amount of spill. Unlike the Orcatorch DC710 which might have a 6-degree spot, but the spill to spot ratio is nearly equal, so there is hardly any contrast between the two. This is important for a back up light as you can still signal reasonably well against primary cave lights that often output over 4,000lumens. The Dive Rite is between the two, it isn’t as much of a laser beam as the DGX but it still has a very distinctive spot. In testing was able to exit the cave on my scooter at normal speeds using both the Dive Rite CX2 and the DGX 1000-6

All three lights are push buttons with a fuel gauge, but the DGX and the Orcatorch lock feature. By holding down the button in the DGX for three seconds it flashes three times and will either lock or unlock. The lock seems to work, the DGX 1000-6 hasn’t turned on accidentally once in the last six months. Unlike the CX2 which accidently turned on twice in the couple of months I had it on my harness. I didn’t trust it at all, so I would always remove it from my harness and hang it, so it didn’t accidently turn on in my box. The Orcatorch has a lock as well that involves double clicking the light, I didn’t test how well it works in practice, as I couldn’t stand the beam.

Now the negative because it is a value light, they minimize the amount of machine time by just having a smooth tube as the body of the light. Unlike the CX2 which has a slightly enlarged tube with well machined knurling. The CX2 feels great in your hand, just the right diameter and bite. The DGX 1000-6 still works but simply not as good. The DGX 1000-6 physical design is better than the CX2 in one regard, the length of the DGX is fairly normal, while the CX2 is so long that is barely fits in most harnesses. The Orcatoch is somewhere in the middle between the two other lights, it is longer and larger in diameter than the DGX but smaller than the Dive Rite, it felt better in the hand, but not significantly as the exterior is still pretty smooth.

Battery wise all three lights use a replaceable 21700 battery. The Dive Rite CX2 has a built-in charging port under the tail cap, so it is fairly easy to charge but requires the usage of a USB A to C cable, it will not work on any USB C charger I have. The easiest to charge is the Orcatorch DC710 as it has a charging port that you can revealed by simply unscrewing a cover and plugging in any USB C cable. I personally don’t trust this charging method, there is no information on if the port is naturally waterproof. And the seal on the cover seems at best to be a single o-ring on the bottom, and perhaps one on top but there is no way I can see to check or change the top o-ring.

The DGX 1000-6 is the hardest to charge, it doesn’t require any special chargers as it has a USB C port built into the battery that works with any USB C cable, but you need to remove the battery from the light to charge. This battery is also more expensive, as of time of writing a high drain 21700 with a built in charging port is over $20 on Battery Junction, while a Samsung protected high drain version is $8. None of the lights use USB PD and instead charge using the standard 5v 1amp charging, taking several hours to charge from empty.

Overall, after six months of diving it I’ve found that the DGX 1000-6 is the best back up light for me. I will be keeping my existing DGX on my harness as a long-term test of it. But I am comfortable enough to removing the spare CX1 that I’ve been keeping in my pocket. As my CX1s die, I will be replacing them with DGX 1000-6s.

On another note, I can’t believe I write an over thousand-word review on back up lights. It is such a minor thing that few people think of. I honestly didn’t even think of them until I was on the market again.

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Left to right: Dive Rite CX1, DGX 1000-6, Orcatorch DC710, and Dive Rite CX2
 
A few points of note:

If you buy a new battery for the 1000-6, you do not have to buy a 21700 with a built-in charging port. You can buy the same battery that you would put in a CX2 - and use a normal charger. You can even use a "normal" charger that will charge the 21700 much more quickly than any of the built-in chargers.

I love the beam on my 1000-6. It really is awesome.

But, I rarely use the light. I take a DGX700 on every dive. Sometimes, it's just along for "just in case". Sometimes, it is a backup to whatever primary I am carrying. I take it because it is more compact than the 1000-6 or a CX2 - and the difference it noticeable to me, when it's clipped to my harness. And, even though it's tapering output, the 3 hours overall burn time is long enough for what I use it for. I have never yet been further from a cave exit than a 1.5 hour swim, so it's even adequate as a backup for cave diving. And the twist on/off is preferable to me (vs a side button) on a backup light. I KNOW it will not get turned on by accident. And while it is not as bright as a 1000-6 on High, it is still pretty darn bright!

All that said, the new Dive Rite CX3 is out now and I think it upsets all of this analysis. It is not constant output, like the 1000-6, but that also means it offers much longer burn times for comparable brightness (tapering, obviously), with the same battery.

I'm definitely on the fence and feel like I waffle back and forth in my mind. But, right now I'm inclined to feel like I'd prefer a backup light to be tapering output. It will burn longer (brightness and battery being the same). And, if I'm using it, that means my primary has died and I'm no longer sight-seeing. I'm just trying to get out and to the surface. Plus, if it's tapering and has long enough burn time then that means it is probably still plenty bright when you get out - because you planned your dive so you wouldn't need more than 50% of your backup light's burn time in order to get out, right?

And if you DO end up using more than 50% of your backup's battery, then that means your constant output backup would have died, right? But your tapering backup was still going when it got you out - just not as bright.

I think where I'm going to end up is my UWLD can light for primary, when needed, a CX3 as my go-to light that I carry on every dive and is first backup to the can light, and a DGX700 as my second or third light. The DGX700 will always be the backup behind the CX3. Because that twist on/off is more reliable than a side button (in MY mind, anyway).
 
I have had two of these on my harness for the last decade. Outside of testing them before every dive, they just sit there and go diving. The beam isn't the best thing in the world, but the 6 hour burn time is impressive and they seem to last forever. Just another option for those that don't want to ever do anything to their backup besides clipping it to their harness.
It takes 3 C cell batteries and I change them every year just for good measure.

DRIS1000 from Dive Right in Scuba

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I have had two of these on my harness for the last decade. Outside of testing them before every dive, they just sit there and go diving. The beam isn't the best thing in the world, but the 6 hour burn time is impressive and they seem to last forever. Just another option for those that don't want to ever do anything to their backup besides clipping it to their harness.
It takes 3 C cell batteries and I change them every year just for good measure.

DRIS1000 from Dive Right in Scuba

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i agree with you, this light has a long burn time, i have both 500 & 1000 lumens, but had the same problem on both lights. The C cell batteries, mostly the last one at the bottom,wich is very deep inside ((Duracell) expanded a little bit and got stuck. I had to buy a very extra long nose plier to remove the batterie. Next step was getting off the plastic wrap around the cells, so they have more room inside the light and does not get stuck over the years.
 
If you buy a new battery for the 1000-6, you do not have to buy a 21700 with a built-in charging port. You can buy the same battery that you would put in a CX2 - and use a normal charger. You can even use a "normal" charger that will charge the 21700 much more quickly than any of the built-in chargers.

I understand that, I was reviewing the light as it was sold without a charger.

All that said, the new Dive Rite CX3 is out now and I think it upsets all of this analysis. It is not constant output, like the 1000-6, but that also means it offers much longer burn times for comparable brightness (tapering, obviously), with the same battery.

It tapers after the voltage drops below the constant draw point. I did the bucket test and after 2 hours on high it was still going.

Just another option for those that don't want to ever do anything to their backup besides clipping it to their harness.

That is how I treat my back up lights. I just test them, as long as the battery status is still green during the test I don't touch them until my battery replacement/recharge cycle twice a year.
 
To add to this review, yesterday I did my end of the year BURNEX. Is there where I use all my back up lights to make sure that I am happy with them, that way I get to use them before I recharge them or replace the batteries. It was my first once since I started scootering.

For my Dive Rite CX1 and my DGX I scootered up to Sweet Surprise, clipped off my primary, deployed a back up light and scootered back to stage bottle rock, about 300 ft or so, stored the light and went back. It wasn't a true test as I left the primary light on.

Both worked fine but more surprising was my little AA Orcatorch D560s they only do like 150 lumens, I didn't go up to Sweet Surprise but instead scootered back down to Double Domes from Stage Bottle Rock approximately 400ft, I was surprised that I could still scooter with them. I had to really stick close to the line and slow down a tad, but in a pinch I could get out on them. Also when I was bored on deco using the bolt snaps I was able to twirl them around like disco lights. Occupied a solid five minutes of my 25 minutes of deco (yes I am easily amused).
 
It tapers after the voltage drops below the constant draw point. I did the bucket test and after 2 hours on high it was still going.

Just for crystal clarity, which one are you saying tapers? The CX3 or the 1000-6? Both lights were mentioned in the quote you were responding to.
 
I have had two of these on my harness for the last decade. Outside of testing them before every dive, they just sit there and go diving. The beam isn't the best thing in the world, but the 6 hour burn time is impressive and they seem to last forever. Just another option for those that don't want to ever do anything to their backup besides clipping it to their harness.
It takes 3 C cell batteries and I change them every year just for good measure.

DRIS1000 from Dive Right in Scuba

Are you using alkaline C cells in those?

DRiS website doesn't give the dimensions on those. But with 3 x C cells, I suspect they are way longer than I would like. The DR CX2 was already too long for my taste.
 
Just for crystal clarity, which one are you saying tapers? The CX3 or the 1000-6? Both lights were mentioned in the quote you were responding to.

DGX 1000-6. Unless Dive Rite wants to give me a light, since they haven't changed the button to add a lock, I don't see the need to buy one. Also not a big fan of a non-standard cable that appears to be proprietary.
 
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