Dc1000! SeaLife's New Camera!

[Nemrod]

You guys need to chill, I feel your pain but at the same time, if you always wait for the best and newest you will never get to live the day.

Consumer electronics including cameras and computers run on about a 6 month cycle. The stuff is obsolete by the time it hits the magazines and store shelves the manufactuers have the next generation in testing.

The VW, cars are a waste of money, get a Toyota and put the difference in the bank or gold or something that will not grace a land fill in a couple of years.

N

 

[Underwater Ogre]

The VW, cars are a waste of money, get a Toyota and put the difference in the bank or gold or something that will not grace a land fill in a couple of years.
N

That's a matter of opinion...been there done that and didn't work out anywhere near what you are saying. It was very much the other way around.

But I got off topic.
I own a DC500...it does everything I need it to do and more. I want to take pictures and get a bit of video. The DC1000 will have to do a heck of alot more then that.

If you chase the latest greatest...you will never get used to your equipment and get the most out of it.

Have fun...dont stress, save the money for exotic dive trips, and take tons of shots,

U/O

 

[TN Traveler]

The DC-800 uses a Minox DC-8011 camera - 8mp

The Minox DC-1033 is the new 10mp version of the camera - all the dimensions and buttons are in the same place - it is listed by Minox as the successor to the DC-8011.

Unfortunately, these cameras are hard to find in the USA.

The other problem is getting the firmware for them, so they have the underwater modes. Since SeaLife has posted an upgrade to the DC-800 firmware, it can be used to upgrade the DC-8011 (I did this with the Vivitar camera that was used in the DC-500), but upgrading the Minox DC-1033 might be a problem, for awhile.

Eventually, you can upgrade a DC-800 to a DC-1000, which will be nice, since you won't have to buy a new housing.

 

[Nemrod]

That's a matter of opinion...been there done that and didn't work out anywhere near what you are saying. It was very much the other way around.

But I got off topic.
I own a DC500...it does everything I need it to do and more. I want to take pictures and get a bit of video. The DC1000 will have to do a heck of alot more then that.

If you chase the latest greatest...you will never get used to your equipment and get the most out of it.

Have fun...dont stress, save the money for exotic dive trips, and take tons of shots,

U/O

Looks like you should be able to purchase the camera and upgrade and then be able to use the lens accessories also.

http://www.minox.com/index.php?id=1598&L=1

http://www.minox.com/index.php?id=2278&L=1

As to the other, no, sorry, it is not an opinion, it is based on statistical evidence for repairs and problems in ownership and as well, an auto is ALWAYS a depreciating asset (with exception of certain collector types) and will always wind up in a scrap yard and melted down as will consumer electronics including digi snap shooter cameras, planned obsolescence is part of the game. On the other hand, I just sold a Nikon mechanical camera for much more than I paid for it, those days are gone, digital cameras become as worthless as a 10 year old computer, except even faster devaluation. It is a shame, I agree.

N

 

[deeper thoughts]

Looks like you should be able to purchase the camera and upgrade and then be able to use the lens accessories also.

MINOX Germany: Description DC 1022

MINOX Germany: Description DC 1033

As to the other, no, sorry, it is not an opinion, it is based on statistical evidence for repairs and problems in ownership and as well, an auto is ALWAYS a depreciating asset (with exception of certain collector types) and will always wind up in a scrap yard and melted down as will consumer electronics including digi snap shooter cameras, planned obsolescence is part of the game. On the other hand, I just sold a Nikon mechanical camera for much more than I paid for it, those days are gone, digital cameras become as worthless as a 10 year old computer, except even faster devaluation. It is a shame, I agree.

N

That does sound encouraging, I would definitely upgrade to the 1000 and wide angle lens if I could still use the housing and strobes.
Thnx

 

[FrankPro1]

I guess my estimates were right on. The MSRP for the Dc1000 will be 549.95
Taken from this article: GET THE FEED

Leisurepro already has it listed on their site for 499.95 with free-shipping. Also if your out of state you don't have to pay tax on the item! http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/SLFDC1.html?Search=op%3ddtSearch%26Term%3ddc1000%26SearchFlag%3dall%26AdvSrchSortField%3dRelevance%26DescSort%3d0%26Description%3don%26Hit%3d1

 

[deeper thoughts]

I guess my estimates were right on. The MSRP for the Dc1000 will be 549.95
Taken from this article: GET THE FEED

Leisurepro already has it listed on their site for 499.95 with free-shipping. Also if your out of state you don't have to pay tax on the item! SeaLife DC1000 Reefmaster 10.1MP Underwater Digital Camera

I sent a pm to sealifejoe on its compatibility with the dc800 housing set up.
It looks like lp will be selling the pkg and not just the camera at this time

 

[FrankPro1]

It looks like lp will be selling the pkg and not just the camera at this time

SeaLife Parts Direct sells the Dc800 camera by itself, so I'm sure once they start shipping the 1000's out to the dealers they will update their parts for it as well.
SeaLife Parts Direct

 

[SeaLife Joe]

OK here goes:
1) Although they look very similar the two housings are not the same so you could not just replace the inner cameras for an upgrade. The DC1000 has a 5x lens which extends further and would contact your lens port and just shut the camera down.
2) The wide angle did not work on the DC800 as it has a 28mm lens which is too wide for the lens and cause a great deal of vignetting - black corners.
3) along with hte obvious differences 8-10mp and a different lens package, we have tweaked out the Color correction some more and added an Easy Set-up screen as you won't believe how many times I have been on a dive or at an event and people have had their camera set-up incorrectly and were saying the camera was not working correctly and viola with the change in settings "this takes great pictures"

 

[sabbath999]

I've been doing some resarch on this on what is available on Sealife's website, and there appears to be an error or two in the site so I am taking my best guess here on a couple things.

Let's compare directly some of the differences, according to the spec pages (the DC1000 is listed first). My comments are added after each line, and keep in mind two things... I am a complete NOOB at underwater photography but have been a land shooter for 30 years. Check out my website listed below to see if I am all stuffed or what.

Differences:

10 megapixel instead of 8 (who cares... two megapixels don't make any practical difference in the real world, and stuffing more resolution on a tiny chip generally means higher noise).

5x zoom but longer focal length 6.3mm-31 vs 4x zoom 4.6-18.4mm (I assume this is correct, the website has an error on the DC1000 page calling it 4X in one spot and 5X in another... but the math shows 5X... personally, I see this as a good thing, because you can now use a wide angle adapter to increase your field of view)

Focus modes normal, Macro, landscape (infinity) vs auto, macro, landscape (infinity) and face detection in the 800 (did they remove face detection on the DC1000 or did they just not list it? Either way, I couldn't care less... face detection on an underwater camera, expecially one that is locked on infinity focus, is meaningless)

More narrow field of view on land (56 degrees vs 64.3 degrees) but almost identical in water 42 degrees vs 43 degrees. (I am guessing that's because of the case? I have no idea, would love to hear Joe tell us why on that one).

Flash... Auto, Force ON, OFF, Red-Eye reduction, Slow Sync, Pre Flash vs. Auto, Fill, Off, Red-Eye reduction (this is all good, especially slow sync).

Picture modes listed: Sea mode, Snorkle mode, Ext Flash Auto and Ext Flash manual vs. ext flash auto, external flash manual and sea mode. (The snorkle mode is apparently a different preset white balance... choice is good, this is a good improvement).

Land modes divver as well: Auto, Sports, Panorama, Anti-shake (land), Splash-water, Flow-water, Night Scene, Landscape, Aperture priority (Av), Shutter Speed Priority (Tv), Fireworks. vs. Auto[Program AE], Sports, Anti-shake, Sunset, Sunrise, Splash-water, Flow-water, Night Scene, Portrait, Landscape, Panorama, Snow, Beach, Pets, Av, Tv, User Setting, Candlelight, Text, Fireworks, Backlight. (I don't care a bit about the land modes, would gladly trade the extra snorkle mode for most land mode presets).

Shooting modes: SPY mode, Single shot, Continuous (3pics), AEB (bracketing), Continuous Flash, Burst, Pre-Shot, Couple Shot, Album Shot LCD 2.7" color LTPS TFT LCD vs. Single, Continuous(3pics), SPY mode(unlimited), AEB (bracketing) (This is all good as well, nice upgrade here).

Pictbridge not mentioned on DC1000 and yes on DC800 (who cares? I can't imagine why anybody would use that anyway with an underwater camera)

Software doesn't mention anything on DC1000 vs. Media One Gallery and Cool 360 SE International (again, who cares... first off, I am a Mac guy and none of that stuff works on my mac, and secondly the software was complete junk anyway.... free Picasa is MUCH better than Media One Gallery and Cool 360... well, guys, 1992 is calling and they want their software back).

To me, the biggest change is the lens... a longer lens is both good and bad, since it backs you up a bit (less light hitting the subject from the flash) and it gives a much narrower field of focus (at least out of water... I am still curious how that one degree difference on the FOV between these to lenses work in water). The WA lens is a nice addition though.

Love to hear your comments Sealife Joe.