D420! How about that?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Or this:

This design is very far removed from the common regulators we are so used to and can tune in our sleep that I don’t think a standard mindset works, tuning can only go so far and once things like the lever are set, as rob suggested, with some play between the diaphragm and the lever and you don’t have a damaged seat, there is only so much that can be done, it’s performance is in the design not in how it’s manipulated with tuning.
 
On a more positive note, it is very simple to disassemble and reassemble. It's also quite possible once the manual comes out there'll be some tips and tricks to tuning it and it will perhaps answer some questions. It could all work out in the end.
 
nah, give up and pass it on to me.... :happywave:
 
It's also possible (likely?) that the behavior I'm seeing is all part of the D and in fact it's behaving exactly as it should. As Rob pointed out, this is the potential outcome when you're playing blind with a "new" design. It's not acting as I expect it to but perhaps the problem is with my expectations not the reg. I'm willing to accept that as a distinct possibility.
 
I'm wondering if they've made a mid production change to the orifice, just trying to figure out why my hex is so far in as compared to Robs. Looking at my orifices (2) neither look particularly sharp and are not translucent, they certainly are not as sharp as a SP plastic 156/G250 orifice.
 
I think Lex hit the nail on the head in his post I quoted above. Once lever height is correctly set and you've wound in hex key to the point of no leaks with stability, the cracking effort you get is what you get. I believe it's specd 1.3-1.6".

Conshelfs and G250s for example are similar in that you only have one point of adjustment and the minimum cracking you can achieve can vary unit to unit based on individual machined parts.

I have two Conshelfs, one I can get down to 1-1.1" but the other will not go below 1.2-1.3". I've had the same experiences with G250/V/156.

As Lex said it's performance is not necessarily in obtaining a low cracking effort but in its design, CFG and valve.

I'm a little embarrassed to say my angst may well have been much ado about nothing exacerbated by a nicked seat and cracked spring pad....maybe.
 
This will be de ja vous for you @lexvil

PT1:

Well, it didn't leak, wasn't blown away but the fact it wasn't leaking gives me some hope. I mean it was nice but from memory no better than a G260. By the end of the dive there was a tiny micro leak but I'm putting that down to the new seat.

I'll put it on a gauge tomorrow just to see where it's at. I guess it did "feel" natural ? It's earned itself a few more dives at least.

The bubbles do still bother me a bit, certainly more noticeable than a G260. It seems the head orientation range to avoid bubbles is way smaller than a G.

Guess I'm just happy it didn't leak and was stable at all depths. Took it out of my mouth a few times, in mouthpiece down position it didn't leak at all, that's a first for me with this reg.

PT2:

Put it on my gauge today just to see what happened after a dive with new seat and orifice. Was cracking at around 1.8- 1.9". No idea why as I set it to 1.2-1.3". Quite a jump.

As I didn't have a new spring pad I installed the old cracked one, I guess that could be an issue but no matter how hard to tried to get it to flex or twist I couldn't so don't think that's an issue. Prior to assembly I tried to get the pad to bind/catch on both spring and hex but could not.

I've re set it to 1.3" breathed off it in my room for a bit, hit purge numerous times etc and seems stable.

I'll take out Sunday for round 4. The fact that cracking jumped so high after one dive doesn't fill me with glee and has done nothing to move me away from my usage of the word finicky.

Could be the spring pad, could just be me but it's not a complex piece of equipment and this isn't my first rodeo so if I'm doing something wrong I'm at a loss as to what it is.

Lever dead inline with rim of case, very tiny amount of play between lever and diaphragm, if I shake it I can hear it rattle. Cracking set (?) to @ 1.3"

Round 4 here we come. I'm hoping like all good relationships we just need to spend more time together for the love to grow.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom