Custom white balance

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Hi guys,
thanks for all the useful advice/tips,very appreciated
i know is good to shooting in RAW format and im aware that there are alot of things can be corrected/edited.
This is my 3rd time shooting underwater photo and 1st time to try CWB,just want to know/learn how diff photo with AWB or CWB:wink:
 
I'd agree about avoiding the use of custom WB, especially if you can shoot in RAW and adjust later! the beauty of RAW is you can adjust to how you remember the scene or how you feel it looks best - both of which can be very differnt to the real WB setting at the scene :)!

If using a strobe or internal flash the WB should be auto or flash mode (or set to the temperature of the flash/strobe).

My big recommendation would be to get an external strobe as soon as (financially) possible, the results you can get with one will make you feel it's one of the best investments you can make after just one dive :)

Karl

Karl,
my next upgrade will be an external strobe(saving money:eyebrow:)
currently aiming at Inon S2000 or YS110A....any feedback/pro&cons on these 2 strobes??
 
I had no #2 because your #2 was fine IMHO.

Learn about RAW, JPEG, and TIFF with the digital photography experts at Photo.net.

My unanswered Q about tiff and raw both being lossless was laziness, hoping someone else would answer. Tiff is lossless although the camera apparently does more processing to a tiff than to a raw (twice the file size), but raw is not unprocessed by the camera. In Program Mode, my camera decides the F-stop, shutter & iso (I think); Auto should mean there is auto white balance, but does the raw file format choice mean the camera makes no WB decision?

When using my strobe I shoot preset manual settings (MyModes) where I chose F-stop, shutter and iso, but I still set WB to Auto. Does the raw format mean that the WB choice is not processing?

My understanding of setting WB underwater is that to be correct the white you use for the setting needs to be the same distance away and the same orientation both with regards to horizontal and the sun angle as the subject. That will not be possible most of the time, so there will be post processing necessary to achieve what your eye saw, and the surroundings/background will not have the correct WB setting, unless they are nearly the same plane as the subject (wall?). Done well, the post processing is easier, but there is still post processing to get the right color.

Cathy, you seem to be saying you set WB underwater for strobe photo's to get better background color, and seem not to say the OP's WB attempts with minimal flash might be part of the problem? Another question is what file format are you using when you set WB for strobe shots?

I am of the opinion that a G11 in Auto modes would have fired the internal flash harder and produced a better/acceptable clownfish image, without setting WB underwater.


thanks for the link halemano!
 
Karl,
my next upgrade will be an external strobe(saving money:eyebrow:)
currently aiming at Inon S2000 or YS110A....any feedback/pro&cons on these 2 strobes??

Personal preference I guess but I'd go for the Inon S2000, I have a pair of Inon Z240s and wouldn't change them for the world :) The S2000 is the more compact optical version, perfect for something like the G11 - it's by far the smallest strobe out there (at a similar performance level) too!!! Great for travel.....

I don't think you'll go wrong with either of these strobes though to be honest!
 
The distance between white slate card from my lens is about 15cm when i do CWB,just enough to fill the frame ( too close?)
Thank you so much ptyx!!

Yes, 15 cm is too close.

Look in your camera manual at what area is used to compute the white balance. I do not know how the G11 work but for example on the 20D it is only a small circle at the center of the picture which is used.

You can also zoom in while you take the WB shot, this won't impact the measurement.

And finally, you can put the card as far away as you like, shoot raw, and - on most software - use a dropper-like tool to select the card and compute WB from there.
 
Personal preference I guess but I'd go for the Inon S2000, I have a pair of Inon Z240s and wouldn't change them for the world :) The S2000 is the more compact optical version, perfect for something like the G11 - it's by far the smallest strobe out there (at a similar performance level) too!!! Great for travel.....

I don't think you'll go wrong with either of these strobes though to be honest!

either one will cost me a bomb...thanks
 
Yes, 15 cm is too close.

Look in your camera manual at what area is used to compute the white balance. I do not know how the G11 work but for example on the 20D it is only a small circle at the center of the picture which is used.

You can also zoom in while you take the WB shot, this won't impact the measurement.

And finally, you can put the card as far away as you like, shoot raw, and - on most software - use a dropper-like tool to select the card and compute WB from there.

the G11 manual quite simple,'make sure the entire screen is filled with a white coloured subject when CWB'.thats why i had to put close enough to make sure the frame filled with the small white plate.
Never thought of zoom in,will give it a try next time.
Thanks!!
 
Strobe/internal flash pops at 5600 degrees unless using a gel. Underwater you should use all the power you can, and compensate using distance, or exposure. Use the temperature control on the camera instead of the auto white balance. This way you can adjust for color loss at depth and know what you are adding or subtracting. 5600 degrees is blue, 3200 degrees is orange/magenta.
Use correction filters if you want to be spot on.
Remember, white balance on a camera is made to be shot through air. All bets are off underwater, even with the high priced SLR's and Medium format cameras.
Getting an external strobe will help your shooting immensely! They are softer and much more adjustable than internal strobe.
Shoot in raw always! This way you can do all the adjustments you want in post.

I like the photo you took as is. If you would like, try some adjustments in post even if you shot in jpeg mode. Go to color corrections and add or subtract a little magenta on the slider. Use the color curves to bring out the contrast and saturation.
Good luck!

Whatever you can do, or dream you can,
begin it. Boldness has power, genius and magic in it.
Begin it now."
--- Goethe
 
Hi stakanak,
Thanks for the tips,i know without a strobe i have to get closer and closer to the object.
Some photos with internal max flash output generates alot of backscatter too,guess add a strobe is the solution?
Newbie here,not sure/understand the temperature control,care to elaborate more?i think my G11 dont have such temperature control function?(u mean choose the preset scene shoot like tungsten,cloudy....etc?)
thanks
 
Newbie here,not sure/understand the temperature control,care to elaborate more?i think my G11 dont have such temperature control function?(u mean choose the preset scene shoot like tungsten,cloudy....etc?)
thanks

Short explanation: same purpose

Longer explanation:

Color temperature is the color (wavelength) distribution emitted by a dark body heated to that temperature. It is a good enough match for most light sources: candles, regular tungsten lights, HIDs, flash bulbs, sun, etc. It's convenient because it allows to work with a single number. For additional confusion, artists refer to low temperature redish lights (candle, tungsten, sunset) as 'warmer' than the 'colder' high temperature blueish lights (HID, full sun).

If there is additional filtering going on, or if the light source doesn't look anything like the mythical 'dark body', color temperature doesn't work so well any more. You need to measure the whole spectrum, or at least the parts which are relevant to you. That happens with natural light underwater (especially in green water) or with fluorescent lights.

Custom white balance will deal with both cases equally well. So will preset scene selections (although they might impact other camera settings as well). Setting a color temperature, if your camera allows, will only work well in the first case.
 
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