Converting SL4 Xenon > LED?
- Thread starter ChimChim75
- Start date
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jjblomquist
Contributor
I to just ordered 2 R2s. My ? is can you use any thing for a spacer Plastic Alum. or does it have to be steel. And does the metal help with heat. Thanks
puppet27
Registered
i cant say enough for this mod, am so impressed with it im sellin the C4eled. it is like a laser beam underwater and thats during the day, cant wait to try it at night.
instead of the metal sleave i used o'rings to space the module without any temperature issues running for over an hour.
by far the best value dive light ive seen at around 14cents a lumen.
instead of the metal sleave i used o'rings to space the module without any temperature issues running for over an hour.
by far the best value dive light ive seen at around 14cents a lumen.
The spacer does not need to be metal. However, you will then need some way to conduct the metal connector on the light to the side of the lens.
My modules just showed up today from Hong Kong... to my delight I discovered they also work as a drop in upgrade for the Surefire G2. It's an extremely impressive difference, and I use that light all the time at work, so woohoo!
Working on my SL4 next, I'll post step by step pics of the mod as long as I'm successful =)
-B
Working on my SL4 next, I'll post step by step pics of the mod as long as I'm successful =)
-B
Okay, so I received all of the parts today and finished both of my lights, and took pictures of the last one to share. I also wrote up a little guide using the method we've been discussing in this thread, which will hopefully make things easier for anyone else who wants to mod their SL4!
Here's what you need:
Got it all? Good, let's get started.
First, take the spring off the Q5 module, you won't need it. Then sand off the anodizing from your spacers to ensure good electrical conductivity (mine came off really easy). If you have bare metal spacers, great! If they are plastic, go back and read the instructions. You = fail.
I had to use two 3mm spacers to get the 6mm height I was looking for, but they weren't quite as wide as I wanted. I added some additional electrical tape until the ring dropped nicely into the light head. I put some cave line on the outside to help bulk it up, and cut my strips of electrical tape in half, putting those over the line. Be careful and don't cover up that nice conductive surface you just made and stick to the outside of the rings only. If you had some big o-rings kicking around, you could probably use those instead and just place them ahead of the spacers.
Alrighty, with that done, add your ghetto fabulous enwidended rings to the Q5.
Disassemble the SL4 and remove the old lamp assembly and reverse the batteries. You know the picture sticker inside of the light? Do the opposite of that. Negative terminal against the switch, positive coming out of the light. Drop the new LED module in, put things back together, sacrifice a lamb to the great God Ohm, and flick the switch.
Oooooh, perdy... 1.21 gigawatts of LED goodness!
Me likey.
Total cost for the upgrade: $15. Add a SL4 from Scubatoys for $20 and I dare you to show me a dive light under $35 that will beat this one!
I need to do a burn test still, but other estimates I've found say about 2-3 hours. I'm going to go o-ring shopping later in the week as I have a feeling that puppet27's o-ring idea will make the spacing cleaner, but this works darn well for low-tech and cheap.
-B
Here's what you need:
- 1 Cree Q5 Module ($9.59 at DealExtreme w/ free shipping)
- 1" diameter conductive metal headset spacers, 6mm tall. I used 2x 3mm aluminum spacers because that's what I found on eBay. (These were about $2.50 each with shipping)
- Sandpaper to remove anodizing from spacers, if anodized.
- Electrical Tape
- Donor SL4
Got it all? Good, let's get started.
First, take the spring off the Q5 module, you won't need it. Then sand off the anodizing from your spacers to ensure good electrical conductivity (mine came off really easy). If you have bare metal spacers, great! If they are plastic, go back and read the instructions. You = fail.
I had to use two 3mm spacers to get the 6mm height I was looking for, but they weren't quite as wide as I wanted. I added some additional electrical tape until the ring dropped nicely into the light head. I put some cave line on the outside to help bulk it up, and cut my strips of electrical tape in half, putting those over the line. Be careful and don't cover up that nice conductive surface you just made and stick to the outside of the rings only. If you had some big o-rings kicking around, you could probably use those instead and just place them ahead of the spacers.
Alrighty, with that done, add your ghetto fabulous enwidended rings to the Q5.
Disassemble the SL4 and remove the old lamp assembly and reverse the batteries. You know the picture sticker inside of the light? Do the opposite of that. Negative terminal against the switch, positive coming out of the light. Drop the new LED module in, put things back together, sacrifice a lamb to the great God Ohm, and flick the switch.
Oooooh, perdy... 1.21 gigawatts of LED goodness!
Me likey.
Total cost for the upgrade: $15. Add a SL4 from Scubatoys for $20 and I dare you to show me a dive light under $35 that will beat this one!
I need to do a burn test still, but other estimates I've found say about 2-3 hours. I'm going to go o-ring shopping later in the week as I have a feeling that puppet27's o-ring idea will make the spacing cleaner, but this works darn well for low-tech and cheap.
-B
mts0628
Contributor
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Hey Brandon:
That's pretty neat! I like the write-up as well, but I am upgrading three Halcyon Scouts (well two and one clone). From the start of this thread and with the friendly advice from Packhorse and all of the other LED guru's, I am getting ready to do some stuff with LED's as well. I ordered the CREE R2 drop in modules and I am gonna see how they go. I hope I have as good luck as you did!
Again, good job!
Kind regards from North Carolina,
Thomas
That's pretty neat! I like the write-up as well, but I am upgrading three Halcyon Scouts (well two and one clone). From the start of this thread and with the friendly advice from Packhorse and all of the other LED guru's, I am getting ready to do some stuff with LED's as well. I ordered the CREE R2 drop in modules and I am gonna see how they go. I hope I have as good luck as you did!
Again, good job!
Kind regards from North Carolina,
Thomas
OP
ChimChim75
Contributor
Burn time is much more than 2 or 3 hours. I'm on 10 plus hours, but light is getting dimmer. I need to go find some spacers this week. I've only used it as a crevice/shallow cave light, but will take it as my backup on a night dive this weekend if plans don't fall through. It is much much better of a spotting light than any of my buddies'...
Oooh, awesome, I tried to find specs that said what the current draw was at 6v, but wasn't able to. I imagine the 2-3 hour times I saw were for a pair of AA or CR123 batteries.
-B
-B
I documented my SL4 to LED conversion as well.
In between making spacers, I simply wound the included copper wire around the opening of the LED lamp. I made sure that the wire's diameter was large enough to make contact with the SL4's connection point. And that was it. It's centered and secure.
In between making spacers, I simply wound the included copper wire around the opening of the LED lamp. I made sure that the wire's diameter was large enough to make contact with the SL4's connection point. And that was it. It's centered and secure.
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