Converting SL4 Xenon > LED?

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Yet another solution...

Utilizing the Deal Extreme SKU 32953 with both an SL4 and SL6, after messing around a couple of days with a dremel tool, went to the hardware store today to find something to keep everything centered etc. Ran across some 7/8" x 1 3/8" machine spacers or shims or something to that effect in the bolts & nuts special drawers at Ace, for $0.45 each. 3 placed on the backside of the reflector centers it, pushes the face to the lens and connects the contacts. Works great, no machining or soldering, just lay them on and use !!
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I really liked bbcg59's idea with the spacers. I was doing some home improvement projects - so every-time I went to a new hardware store I'd check for these. No one has them - including my local Ace.

These things are called 'Arbor Shims without keyway' and / or 'Arbor Spacers without keyway'. You can find them online, but by the time you do the minimum order and pay the shipping, you'll start to wonder why you don't just buy a new light.

For those who are considering doing this light, you've already read about the use of a bicycle headset spacer. Generally, you'll need to do a little grinding of the I.D. with a dremel to make these fit.

Another problem is that the spacers that I've seen, and those mentioned above, have an O.D. that causes them to drift around inside the light. As a result, the electrical connection is not reliable.

What I did was to drill three holes around the perimeter of the spacer. I ran a self threading screw in and out of the hole to put a little thread into the smooth hole. I slide the spacer onto a large wood dowel and dripped solder into each of the three holes. It adds just enough material to cause the reflector / spacer to stay centered and maintain electrical contact.

If you can't find Arbor Shims, this might be the way to go.
 

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For the spacer ring, here is another idea I ran across - reuse the outer portion of the zenon module by cutting it off and machining to fit. Since I haven't made 5 posts yet I cannot post the url directly, but here it is, just replace DOT with .
wadiversDOTcomDOTau/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=2829

For those who don't want to fuss with the spacer/contact ring, I noticed someone sells the Cree R5 with the spacer/contact ring already made and installed, although it seems pricey...
Search ebay for: Scuba dive light Bulb LED Mod UK SL4 Cree R5

And if you really want to get carried away here is a mod for the UK 1200 using 6 led drop-in modules - that's gotta be bright!
wwwDOTcandlepowerforumsDOTcom/vb/showthread.php?t=198824
 
And if you really want to get carried away here is a mod for the UK 1200 using 6 led drop-in modules - that's gotta be bright!
wwwDOTcandlepowerforumsDOTcom/vb/showthread.php?t=198824

I'd be careful with stuff that might generate extra heat. I discovered this after ruining my SL4.

Here's what happened:

I decided I wanted to do a bunch of battery tests. That involved running the light over an extended period of time with different batteries. Not in water.

After doing several of these battery tests, I noticed that when I threaded the lens assembly onto the flashlight body, the lens assembly would 'spin' a little - like I had stripped the threads.

I removed the lens assy and examined threads on both the lens and the body - no problem, they were perfect.

What happened? The heat generated by the tests caused the plastic of the body to expand and then contract (permanently) to a diameter smaller than original spec. The diameter of the lens assy did not contract like the body. Thus the two sets of threads were sliding past one-another.
 
Thanks for all the good info posted in the last year.
I ordered my R5 on Nov 22, and it was waiting for me in the mailbox when I got home from work today. That has to be a record for shipping from China, considering that if I'd ordered it here in the States it would've taken just as long with the Thanksgiving holiday weekend :D
 
I came across these in the rope and chain section at Lowes, for less than a buck each. 1" ID rings, about 3/16" thick. They're thick enough that the head won't screw all the way down, but it still places the o-ring on the sealing surface of the cap, so it works fine. There's some variation among the rings so you can pick the ones you want to some extent.
 

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Waking this from the dead. I'm just now getting into the night dive game. Thanks for this, I can hardly wait for my SL6 to get here for this conversion. Those spacers look like the best solution. I'll be doing a buddy's as well!

Utilizing the Deal Extreme SKU 32953 with both an SL4 and SL6, after messing around a couple of days with a dremel tool, went to the hardware store today to find something to keep everything centered etc. Ran across some 7/8" x 1 3/8" machine spacers or shims or something to that effect in the bolts & nuts special drawers at Ace, for $0.45 each. 3 placed on the backside of the reflector centers it, pushes the face to the lens and connects the contacts. Works great, no machining or soldering, just lay them on and use !!
View attachment 77163 View attachment 77164 View attachment 77165
 
I've since found that split rings - like on a keychain - work well also, maybe better than a solid spacer, since the split ring can deform to fit.
 
Just going through my subscriptions. The spacers from ACE worked great. Quite impressive light from a SL6. Deal extreme now has a US warehouse so shipping won't take so long.
 
Deal extreme now has a US warehouse so shipping won't take so long.

Careful... someone is going to get a disappointing surprise.

Most of what is on the Dealextreme web site - including this item - are not in the U.S. warehouse.

According to this page - at this minute, there are less than 200 items in the U.S. warehouse.

You'll know when it's in the U.S. warehouse - it says so in red letters on the individual product page.
 

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