Colour Plug-in for Photoshop

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ninjamuzo

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Does anyoneknow of a color plug-in for Photoshop that adjusts for underwater colors?

This would ideally be something where you plug in a depth and it works out the color loss at that depth and adjusts accordingly (I guess you would also need some kind of brightness slider as well)

Thanks.
 
ninjamuzo:
Does anyoneknow of a color plug-in for Photoshop that adjusts for underwater colors?

This would ideally be something where you plug in a depth and it works out the color loss at that depth and adjusts accordingly (I guess you would also need some kind of brightness slider as well)

Thanks.


Use color adjust under Image

If the colors were not there when you took the photo, such as a deep shot without strobes then the computer cannot make them up. So the answer would be NO.

Use the brightness / contrast slider also under adjust also under image
 
ninjamuzo:
Does anyoneknow of a color plug-in for Photoshop that adjusts for underwater colors?

This would ideally be something where you plug in a depth and it works out the color loss at that depth and adjusts accordingly (I guess you would also need some kind of brightness slider as well)

Thanks.

Not heard of one...there would be too many variables, I think. Depth, ambient light, water colour etc.

Check out the Levels and Curves controls. If you have PSCS check out the shadow/highlights controls...I check these out and then go to saturation then to levels for many images...it seems to help me get "true" colours without fluffing things up too badly...of course, you can also experiment!
 
Actually
I don't think it is a bad idea. I have readin posts that people have demoed software that takes the excessive blue out of photos. That being teh case (and assuming the results were as nice as the posters said they were) I don't see why it would not be possible to have a similar filter for Photoshop.

After all the "adjust levels" is essentially the same kind of thing for land pictures. Granted, results can be hit and miss, but more often than not, I judge the result to be better than the original in terms of brightness and color quality.

JAG
 
Try taking a white balance on your next dive. Have a buddy hold a white slate in front of him. Spot it, and take a manuel white balance. Save the setting in "My mode". This should help your color cast. Note, I use an Oly 5050z. I hope this applies to your camera.
 
I often use the Color Cast tool. Hunt for the lightest or darkest spot in the picture. I click around until I either get that old yellowish/brown or a jeans blue hue. From there I click auto levels and/or auto color correction....if needed I adjust the Saturation...works for a lot of pictures.
Aloha,
Lisa
 
unfortuantely there are no general actions that will work on all photos. what i have built for my self are a set of filters (layer masks) that replicate what a photo processing lab has (adding or taking away one of the CMY colors, but in RGB values).

i also as a general action(mandrake) for photos without the aid of a strobe i have the action that a scuba boarder posted that is really good for getting the blue level down, but im working on a better action for various water colors and conditions to suit my taste (auto color doesnt get it right alot time).

normal photo processing is a art form in its self, underwater editting is a totally different animal

tooth
 
lego

thats the one i have been using for general work.

Lego changing WB settings is a matter of life for me. for some events where im shooting i might end up changing the WB setting on the camera (Digital) or filtering my flash (film) depending on the angle im at or what lights are in the area of the subject.

for example in my last shoot which was a event for the restraunt i work for i changed WB settings (custom ones, and my cam can store 5 of them (fuji one, not my c5050) around a dozen times in under 5 minutes because of the lighting changes in the room ( lighting was a mix of halogen, florescent, tungsten, HID, sodium vapour) it was a pain in the butt but i didnt loose a shot (also if you can shoot in raw if you have a DSLR because it makes editting alot easier, as most of the raw formats from non dslrs are not all that good), it only takes about 15 seconds and it cuts down on the editting

FWIW

Tooth
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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