cleaning a flooded light

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phishphood

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So I managed to flood my 1k full-size light yesterday @ about 30-40 FSW. I'm not really sure how, probably my fault but I don't remember unscrewing it all the way or anything. Anyways, noticed a small amount of water in the front head assembly between the bulb and the front lens (makes the light patterns on the reef look pretty cool btw). The amount of water grew to about double what it was and the light started flickering. Turned it off at that point. After the dive (30min?) I unscrewed the cap to find one of the batteries had more or less burst. At this point is there any way to salvage the light? Batteries were removed and recycled right away but there is still water between the bulb and the lens and potentially battery acid inside the barrel.
 
So I managed to flood my 1k full-size light yesterday @ about 30-40 FSW. I'm not really sure how, probably my fault but I don't remember unscrewing it all the way or anything. Anyways, noticed a small amount of water in the front head assembly between the bulb and the front lens (makes the light patterns on the reef look pretty cool btw). The amount of water grew to about double what it was and the light started flickering. Turned it off at that point. After the dive (30min?) I unscrewed the cap to find one of the batteries had more or less burst. At this point is there any way to salvage the light? Batteries were removed and recycled right away but there is still water between the bulb and the lens and potentially battery acid inside the barrel.


Best thing to do is scrap the light :wink: and by scrap, I mean send it to us and we will replace it for you
 
Assuming that you haven't got a nice helpful manufacturer like above:

I made the same comment recently in a camera thread. What does the damage is the energy from the batteries causing electrolysis.
If you see your light flooding at depth, open it immediately and get the batteries out.
When you get back on the boat rinse the light with fresh water and then keep it immersed in a container or plastic bag of fresh water until you get home or to a workshop. (I'm sure everyone remembers the science experiment from school that leaving a piece of iron in air or in water doesn't cause rusting, but leaving it wet in air does. :wink:)
Rinse and soak with distilled water - then dry with a blow dryer or hair dryer (without excessively heating any electronic components or modules). Then leave for some time in a bowl of rice or something else that will absorb any moisture coming out of circuit boards.
The distilled water won't leave any residues that could alter circuit performance.
You may then have to clean up some contacts but they should not have corroded away completely.

I've saved more than one light by following this procedure. (And even the same LED light that repeatedly flooded until I got the required o-ring size exactly right).

There is also another advantage to this procedure - the risk of the light exploding is diminished. My son had a well known brand of light flood at 40m. He simply stuck it in his BC pocket and pulled out his spare. While he was on the deco stop there was an enormous "thump" and he felt like he was being struck hard (it left a bruise on his rib-cage). It was the dive light exploding in the BC pocket due to the pressure build up from electrolysis combined with the external pressure reduction.
 
Mike et al.- you guys are so awesome! It'll be mailed on Monday.

miketsp- I think 24hrs with battery acid/saltwater in it kind of ruins any chance of recovery. But also- I've seen plenty of things rust while underwater, without further exposure to air. Just an fyi...
 
Now that's customer service! I like it!
 
..snip..

miketsp- I think 24hrs with battery acid/saltwater in it kind of ruins any chance of recovery. But also- I've seen plenty of things rust while underwater, without further exposure to air. Just an fyi...

Did you read my post? I was giving advice to other readers to open the light immediately if it happens to them - while still at depth. Obviously your case was a lost cause.
You won't see things rust UW in just a few minutes.
 
DRIS- Sent a PM and have mailed the light. Any response on this? Thanks Mike P.
 
Best thing to do is scrap the light :wink: and by scrap, I mean send it to us and we will replace it for you

Things like this is why DRIS get most of my purchases these days!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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