I was with a group that visited Chuuk after going to Yap. I am going to break the report into several topics.
Chuuk Report
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OP
We flew into Chuuk from Yap, going through Guam. We spent the first few days at the Blue Lagoon resort, doing no diving. We did a tour of Tonoas Island, the former main base of the Japanese military. We were led by tour guides from the Blue Lagoon who either had no interest in being tour guides or did not know much about the sitesit was hard to tell which. They volunteered almost no informationthey would stop the pickup trucks we were piled in near a site, say a very few words about it, and leave us to explore. If we asked questions that included a suggested answer in the question (like, did these fire hydrants use sea water?), they always said Yes. We tested it by asking contradictory questions in succession, and we got a yes response each time. If we asked a question without suggesting an answer, we got varied responses. Occasionally we got an answer. The guide our group had would usually say, I dont know. The other guide would start to mumble a response and then look away as the sentence trailed off to nothing, apparently hoping no one would notice that she never finished the sentence. We saw that a lot of Japanese military buildings and foundations (we know some were the main hospital) are being used for schools and homes now.
I was not with them once when someone asked what kind of huge tree was at the site of an exploded gas storage tank. The guide shrugged and said, "It's a big tree." When I heard the story, I asked of the listener had misheard it, because even I with my limited knowledge of tropical horticulture knew it was a strangler fig tree. They said, that there was no mistake-he had no idea what it was.
The island had a disaster three years ago in the form of a massive landslide that took out the power generator. Since the island is under U.S. protection, this fell under the jurisdiction of FEMA, who handled this in a fashion that formed a blueprint for their New Orleans response two years later. To this day, the island has no electricity, and there is no indication that it will be restored soon. The most depressing part of the tour was the fact that, after 62 years of U.S. control, the highest quality buildings on the island are the ruins of the Japanese military buildings. The local schools we saw on Tonoas are primarily within old Japanese buildings, with no electricity, no running water, and no real supplies.
I was not with them once when someone asked what kind of huge tree was at the site of an exploded gas storage tank. The guide shrugged and said, "It's a big tree." When I heard the story, I asked of the listener had misheard it, because even I with my limited knowledge of tropical horticulture knew it was a strangler fig tree. They said, that there was no mistake-he had no idea what it was.
The island had a disaster three years ago in the form of a massive landslide that took out the power generator. Since the island is under U.S. protection, this fell under the jurisdiction of FEMA, who handled this in a fashion that formed a blueprint for their New Orleans response two years later. To this day, the island has no electricity, and there is no indication that it will be restored soon. The most depressing part of the tour was the fact that, after 62 years of U.S. control, the highest quality buildings on the island are the ruins of the Japanese military buildings. The local schools we saw on Tonoas are primarily within old Japanese buildings, with no electricity, no running water, and no real supplies.
OP
We were only at the Blue Lagoon resort a few days, a stay necessitated by the inability to match our flight schedules to the schedule of the Odyssey liveaboard. It's a beautiful location, with war relics all around. It was once a sea plane base, and you can see the entrance ramps and old pill boxes and bunkers on the grounds.
According to repeat customers we met, the resort and restaurant have gone downhill considerably after a change of ownership. Whatever the cause, the place is not well run. We wanted to run some videos we had shot earlier in Yap through the TV in our room, but that was not possible because there was no connection on the TV or between the TV and the video machine under it. In fact, there was nothing that could send a video signal of any kind to the TV. The TV had no functionality of any kind, and that was true in all our rooms. We mentioned it at the desk, and they said they would send someone to take care of that, but it never happened.
The restaurant has only a handful of menus, so if too many customers came in at once, we had to wait as much as 20 minutes to see a menu. Service was painfully slow. At one meal ( lunch), it took more than an hour to bring the salad course after we had ordered. Imagine if we had had an afernoon dive scheduled.
There was some problem with our bills at the restaurant at nearly every meal, including items costing more on the bill than on the menu. ("The menu says beer costs $3.50, but you charged $4.00." “That brand cost more.” “But it's listed as one of the brands costing $3.50.” “Cost more.”
At check out, just about every one of us had a mistake on our bill that had to be corrected.
Maybe they had some off days, but this was not the highlight of the trip.
According to repeat customers we met, the resort and restaurant have gone downhill considerably after a change of ownership. Whatever the cause, the place is not well run. We wanted to run some videos we had shot earlier in Yap through the TV in our room, but that was not possible because there was no connection on the TV or between the TV and the video machine under it. In fact, there was nothing that could send a video signal of any kind to the TV. The TV had no functionality of any kind, and that was true in all our rooms. We mentioned it at the desk, and they said they would send someone to take care of that, but it never happened.
The restaurant has only a handful of menus, so if too many customers came in at once, we had to wait as much as 20 minutes to see a menu. Service was painfully slow. At one meal ( lunch), it took more than an hour to bring the salad course after we had ordered. Imagine if we had had an afernoon dive scheduled.
There was some problem with our bills at the restaurant at nearly every meal, including items costing more on the bill than on the menu. ("The menu says beer costs $3.50, but you charged $4.00." “That brand cost more.” “But it's listed as one of the brands costing $3.50.” “Cost more.”
At check out, just about every one of us had a mistake on our bill that had to be corrected.
Maybe they had some off days, but this was not the highlight of the trip.
OP
The Odyssey Liveaboard is an excellent contrast to the Blue Lagoon Resort. The accommodations are the best any of us had ever seen, and our group had some very experienced liveaboard veterans. The dive staff is very high quality, and they have a variety of tank choices, with a compressor that can refill the boat in very quick order. The food was only average, though, and we had problems with a persistent foul odor in our room (it wasn't us)--those were the only flaws in the experience.
As for the diving, it is as advertised and more. If you like wreck dives, you will love these wrecks. Take one of the DM’s to guide you on most of them, and they will show you through places you never would have found yourself. More importantly, they will show you the way out of these places as well. Be prepared to dive deep early and often. If you don’t know how to deal with decompression stops, it would be good to get that learning before you go there. If not, though, the DM’s will help you.
In my opinion, the star of the show is the dive on the San Francisco Maru, but it is a special request dive. My depth was 181 feet on that dive, but it is possible to go deeper. Obviously, you will need to be prepared for decompression if you choose this option.
I won't go through each wreck individually--let me just say that this experience exceeded my expectations, and I was expecting a lot.
Sadly, the wrecks are showing the predictable deterioration associated with, well, being a salt water wreck. I imagine they were even more spectacular a generation ago. In another generation, rust will claim much more of the structures. Unfortunately, previous divers have claimed some of the artifacts as well. One hold has thousands of bullets lying around, but apparently there were once many, many more that have disappeared one at a time into BCD pockets. The Odyssey strongly emphasized that nothing was to be taken, but the advice was not needed for our group. We are all confirmed believers in preserving the wrecks.
This was simply an outstanding diving experience, and I believe everyone who has any liking for wreck dives should strongly consider making plans as soon as possible. You have to book well in advance, and these wrecks are not getting any younger.
As for the diving, it is as advertised and more. If you like wreck dives, you will love these wrecks. Take one of the DM’s to guide you on most of them, and they will show you through places you never would have found yourself. More importantly, they will show you the way out of these places as well. Be prepared to dive deep early and often. If you don’t know how to deal with decompression stops, it would be good to get that learning before you go there. If not, though, the DM’s will help you.
In my opinion, the star of the show is the dive on the San Francisco Maru, but it is a special request dive. My depth was 181 feet on that dive, but it is possible to go deeper. Obviously, you will need to be prepared for decompression if you choose this option.
I won't go through each wreck individually--let me just say that this experience exceeded my expectations, and I was expecting a lot.
Sadly, the wrecks are showing the predictable deterioration associated with, well, being a salt water wreck. I imagine they were even more spectacular a generation ago. In another generation, rust will claim much more of the structures. Unfortunately, previous divers have claimed some of the artifacts as well. One hold has thousands of bullets lying around, but apparently there were once many, many more that have disappeared one at a time into BCD pockets. The Odyssey strongly emphasized that nothing was to be taken, but the advice was not needed for our group. We are all confirmed believers in preserving the wrecks.
This was simply an outstanding diving experience, and I believe everyone who has any liking for wreck dives should strongly consider making plans as soon as possible. You have to book well in advance, and these wrecks are not getting any younger.
OP
In retrospect, I overstated the need to dive deep or do decompression. You can have an excellent experience without going too deep although you will miss a lot if you are not willing to go below 100 feet/30 meters. Your need for decompression depends, we learned, a lot on your choice of computer. See my next post for more.
OP
Reaching deco limits and having to do deco stops had a fairly significant effect on people's experiences, and it was clearly dependent upon the brand.
People using Suunto Cobras were all flirting with or exceeding decompression limits throughout the week. Their buddies on different computers would be OK, but the Cobra divers would be in deco.
I myself used a Cobra with an Aladin Prime as a backup. The difference was huge, even though the two computers were at the same depths on the same dives every time. If I had only had the Aladin, I would have had a very different experience. My buddy, who was with me on every dive, rarely came close to deco limits, except for dives like the San Francisco. His Oceanic was more liberal than my Aladin.
People using Suunto Cobras were all flirting with or exceeding decompression limits throughout the week. Their buddies on different computers would be OK, but the Cobra divers would be in deco.
I myself used a Cobra with an Aladin Prime as a backup. The difference was huge, even though the two computers were at the same depths on the same dives every time. If I had only had the Aladin, I would have had a very different experience. My buddy, who was with me on every dive, rarely came close to deco limits, except for dives like the San Francisco. His Oceanic was more liberal than my Aladin.
Boulderjohn,
Nice report. I'd like to make a few comments about the Blue Lagoon. I was actually quite impressed when I stayed there. There are some cultural differences with the Chuukese that may make them appear surly, and this has to be kept in mind.
I had heard the opposite, that it has improved since changing management. Other than the TV issue (totally true) the facilities were good for FSM standards.
They do have a special room for viewing documentaries which can be reserved.
Also, a correction, FSM is an independent country and is not "controlled" by the US any more, and this has been the case for about two decades or more since the Federated States of Micronesia elected independance. It is protected by the US military.
The diving through Blue Lagoon was excellent and you can do pretty much whatever you want after the guides have checked you out. It was the first dive shop on Chuuk and its founder located many of the wrecks. All of the major wrecks are within 15 mins.
Just my take on it.
Nice report. I'd like to make a few comments about the Blue Lagoon. I was actually quite impressed when I stayed there. There are some cultural differences with the Chuukese that may make them appear surly, and this has to be kept in mind.
I had heard the opposite, that it has improved since changing management. Other than the TV issue (totally true) the facilities were good for FSM standards.
They do have a special room for viewing documentaries which can be reserved.
Also, a correction, FSM is an independent country and is not "controlled" by the US any more, and this has been the case for about two decades or more since the Federated States of Micronesia elected independance. It is protected by the US military.
The diving through Blue Lagoon was excellent and you can do pretty much whatever you want after the guides have checked you out. It was the first dive shop on Chuuk and its founder located many of the wrecks. All of the major wrecks are within 15 mins.
Just my take on it.
its FSM independence day today actually....
OP
mthirsc:
Hmmmm.
Since you live in FSM, you are certainly in a position to know, but that is not what we were told by the people there or on Yap. They did not clearly define the relationship, but they decribed it as much more involved than you do. For example, the main road on the main island of Chuuk is being improved significantly, and we were told that the money for this came from the U.S. as a part of its role with the FSM government. We were told that when a typhoon hit Yap hard a few years ago, the money to rebuild the homes came from FEMA. We were told that FEMA is responsible for the repairs on Tonoas as well.
FSM has a free association with the US. THe US does give money, but FSM is no longer a territory of the US like it was years ago.
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