Cave Diving Backup Lights / Rechargeable Batteries

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it's been touched on above, but like the vast majority of things in diving, this recommendation is out-dated and not founded in current state of the art and understanding. Continued fear mongering and ignorance keep rules like that in place.
So why did it come about in the first place and why is it no longer valid?
Alkaline has a predictable discharge curve meaning that the voltage is relatively linear to state of charge. This means that with a multimeter you can quickly check the batteries and know their state of charge and that is one of the main arguments for it. When was the last time you saw someone at a dive site with a multimeter?
Old chemistries that are no longer used were much less stable and more importantly they historically suffered from memory effect where their duration was no longer predictable. New alkalines that exhibit negligible self discharge and are consistent in capacity obviously are superior for that.

Once NiMh from Sanyo/Eneloop came out that helped to solve the self-discharge and memory issues. They still have a flat discharge curve, but with the smart chargers that can cycle the batteries, I cycle before a big trip and then I know definitively what the capacity of the batteries are and know that they are fully charged. The cycle function fully charges, discharges to the "safe" level, then fully charges again.

The single 18650's have two HUGE advantages to all of the other chemistries though and they are the energy density that allows them to stay small, but more importantly they can handle big discharge loads. A Cree XML-U2 that puts out 700ish lumen *all of the single 18650 lights with that emitter put out about that much, but they usually claim 1000-1200 lumen* is comparable to a 10w HID in terms of light output. That type of drain is not able to be handled by most alkaline cells without a significant amount of them, and certainly not for an hour long burn.

With backmount, the traditional light location never really pushed for backup lights to be smaller. With sidemount and essentially losing the "traditional" light location, there is a push to smaller lights, but it is also taking advantage of the new technology in terms of LED efficiency, battery chemistry, etc. The argument for "simple" lights because of "less failure" is gone since all LED's have control boards in them so there is no getting away from that anymore, some of the push buttons that are magnetic still have no thru-holes, etc.

This type of issue applies to CCR's where people argue that analog electronics are more robust than digital *pre DiveCAN vs. current*, anyone who still uses tables/ratio deco instead of computers, trimix pretty much everything, dive shop sales models, teaching curricula, many other aspects of our sport. The lack of understanding of how and why the technology works leads people to get defensive when questioned and they fail to research and learn how and why things work. It's easier to stay ignorant, and our industry is really good at it, and I applaud you for having the balls to ask the question because the vast majority do not.
 
The non-rechargable lithiums like the CR123s will support high power draws and good output comparable to a 18/21 HID which is pretty good.

I'm less concerned about batteries being dead than I am about lights turning on when they arent supposed to. The older twist heads were the best at this and not all the modern backups are as secure.
 
I've found NiMH Eneloop rechargeables to be incredibly dependable. I always slow charge them whenever possible and I have many approaching ten years old with no noticeable degradation in capacity. A quality charger is worth the few extra bucks - you want one with voltage settings and typically the better quality ones have circuitry that allows you to recharge cells individually (instead of requiring you to pair them up).
 
The non-rechargable lithiums like the CR123s will support high power draws and good output comparable to a 18/21 HID which is pretty good.

I'm less concerned about batteries being dead than I am about lights turning on when they arent supposed to. The older twist heads were the best at this and not all the modern backups are as secure.

none of the modern backups are as secure as the old twist tops since they all have electronic boards that are very sensitive to water and heat, but they're all more than good enough. They're also cheap enough that grabbing a third one if you're worried is not bad.
 
none of the modern backups are as secure as the old twist tops since they all have electronic boards that are very sensitive to water and heat, but they're all more than good enough. They're also cheap enough that grabbing a third one if you're worried is not bad.
magnetic slide and push button switches are both a step backwards in reliability above and beyond the internal boards to drive leds
 
I currently have two older back up lights with alkalines and 1 newer with an 18650. That one is MUCH brighter and actually not a huge step down from a primary light. But the burn time is only a little over an hour, while the alkaline battery lights go for close to 8 hours with enough light to signal and see what you need to. When I buy new back lights I'm sure they will be rechargeable. I just hate throwing away batteries. I get the old arguments about using alkalines, but with basic care and newer rechargeables, plus the fact that a 2 person team has at least 6 lights between them, I'm not too worried.
 
I appreciate all the input, Especially @tbone1004 @kensuf @rjack321 -- I have decided to get myself a backup light with an 18650 rechargeable battery, Made In USA type and carry it as a 3rd backup light in the caves.

So with that being said I am asking for recommendations for such a light with an LED emitter. I have a smart charger.

Anyone?
 
I appreciate all the input, Especially @tbone1004 @kensuf @rjack321 -- I have decided to get myself a backup light with an 18650 rechargeable battery, Made In USA type and carry it as a 3rd backup light in the caves.

So with that being said I am asking for recommendations for such a light with an LED emitter. I have a smart charger.

Anyone?
What kind of turn on/off mechanism do you prefer?
 
What kind of turn on/off mechanism do you prefer?

Good question...preferably no thru hull fitting. Either magnetic or twist on/off.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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