Trip Report Caribbean Explorer II, St. Marteen, Saba, St. Kitt

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Jayfarmlaw

Contributor
Divemaster
Messages
1,636
Reaction score
1,696
Location
Tuttle, Ok
# of dives
1000 - 2499
We are back from our trip and I wanted to wait a bit before posting. While there were many wonderful attributes to the trip, this vacation didn't pan out as hoped.

Me, my wife, and 16 other friends all booked the Caribbean Explorer II out of St. Maarten. Our group had the entire boat. I had never done a live aboard and was excited as it was definitely on my bucket list. Eat, Sleep, Dive, Repeat is my idea of an ideal, if not perfect, vacation. We left OKC to Charlotte NC, then on to St. Maarten with no travel drama whatsoever. All of us had to have a negative Covid test within 24 hours before leaving the US, which we all had. We arrived at the airport and Customs took about an hour and a half to clear due to several flights arriving at the same time. I'm slow with a bad knee so it takes me longer. We easily met the two vans that the boat had arranged for us and some how got all 18 of us in the vans with our luggage and made the 25 minute-ish ride to the dock. For our return trip, they brought a flatbed truck for the luggage.

The boat is older and showing some wear but perfectly ship shape as is. The air conditioning was fine mostly and we only felt hot a few times. We got on board and had a brief meeting and welcome aboard and were immediately shown to our rooms. Rooms are small, but that was expected. My wife and I were in Cabin 2 with a full sized bed with a smaller bunk on top. If you have read any live-aboard reports before this, you know that space is a premium. The upper bunk gave us room for clothing, extra gear, backpacks, large save a dive kit, etc. Our large hard suitcases fit under the bed. There was one small drawer All my clothes fit in it and we had toiletries under the sink in the vanity. We had our own bathroom with a toilet and shower with the sink and vanity in the cabin. The mattress was very comfortable and I slept like a baby. If you are the slightest bit claustrophobic, make sure you get one of the rooms with a normal bed and no bunk on top. The distance from the mattress to bottom of the top bunk was less than 2 feet. If you tried to sit up at night...it will remind you that the distance from your butt to your head is greater than two feet. I was concerned about my wife being seasick but she had started taking Bonine and had no problems at all. She has gotten seasick on cruises before so I can say the stuff works!

The food was amazing. Our chef Julian was from Scotland and was truly gifted in the culinary arts. He even made me a version of Haggis upon request, but none of the traditional ingredients. For three full meals a day and snacks he continued to impress. All of it was done with a typical household electric stove like you would see in any home in America, along with a standard microwave. Even something simple like waffles and eggs was better than any I have had before. Meals are served buffet style and I promise you wont go hungry. I'm 6'1, 250 ish and love to eat and there was always plenty of food left for the crew. The bar is well stocked and serve yourself. If you have a preferred brand, you may want to pick up a bottle or two before boarding. They had Corona, Heineken, and eventually a case or so of Carib (the local beer) in a stainless chiller along with coke, diet coke, sprite, ginger ale, club soda, and tonic water, along with juices. There is a wine cooler as well with several varieties, with a perfectly good chardonnay. They did run out of Diet Coke but replenished within 24 hours.....maybe 12....it didn't bother me, I'm fat. Tap water is safe to drink. They provide a plastic cup with your name on it but Id suggest taking a yeti type cup along. The ice melts really fast.

Diving was typically Caribbean. From incredible visibility to maybe 50 foot. They do put a divemaster in the water with you, sometimes 2, but they are not there to babysit like a Cozumel type DM. We had 15 divers and if the visibility went bad, parts of the group would get separated. The DM's sort of lead the dives and if you were close when they saw something, they were happy to show it to you. If you are a newer diver, I would suggest you stay close to the DM (maybe just ride their tank). You can always pop up and shoot a bearing to the boat and swim to it, but there were currents at times that a long swim would not be fun. One person had to have some help a couple of times. There is a dingy for lost pick up if needed.

All the typical reef creatures are there and the Lionfish are MONSTERS. Read that again...MONSTERS. They are protected in the marine park and even the DM's cant shoot them. If Jullian could have make his version of Lionfish Marsala, that alone would be worth the price of the trip. Surprisingly though, the juvenile "pretty fish" population does not seem to be adversely affected.

More in Part 2-

Jay
 
Part 2-

Entry is done by giant stride with a 4-5 foot drop then grab a line and pull yourself to the front of the boat to the mooring or anchor line. Then the group descends together...more or less. You are free to do your own thing as well during the dive. Dives are limited to 45 minutes-ish, I could usually stretch mine to an hour by being the last on board. The boat has a large swim platform at the back with two very stable, very large, ladders that go plenty deep to make getting back on board more or less easy. There is a tag line that they prefer you to surface and pull your fins off on, pull yourself to the ladder, hand up your fins, then climb up the ladder. There are two weighted lines that hang down to 20ish feet (22 and 15 maybe?) and a drop reg if you need to complete a safety stop. I usually hung out on the line waiting for dropped masks, cameras, or fins until it was just me and the DM then I would just come up and grab the ladder. The seas were always calm enough that grabbing the ladder to remove my fins wasn't an issue. It is one of the best set up dive boats I have been on. Dive staff was competent, friendly, knowledgeable of the area, and Leo and Mackenzie were a joy to be around. Despite being DM's, they worked other jobs on the boat and were always busy running around doing things. Water temp was 83, I dove in a rashguard and swimsuit and was fine. There are stingy-bitey things in the water, but not bad. Something got me once. No idea what. There is a spray bottle of vinegar on the dive deck that handles that issue fine.

The dive deck has typical gear storage and your tank is bungeed to your tank rack. It stays there for the week. After a dive, you bungee your tank, pull your regs, and walk away. They have fill lines to fill your tank at your spot. There are two nitrox testers on the large camera table to use. Nitrox was always within 1% and filled with a membrane system. A clip board is on the camera table for you to fill in your pressure and mix and sign. After a dive, a DM will ask you for your ending pressure and max depth.

Safety- No charging of lithium batteries is allowed unattended in the rooms and the staff will unplug it if they see it. There is a charging station on the dive deck on a shelf with a marine grade vinyl cover flap rigged up with a fire suppression system. There are multiple exits. Muster Station is on the second level above the dive deck where meals are served. No formal evacuation drill was ever given so when you arrive, you might make it a point to find the exits.

Our Saba Trip was canceled due to a possibly, maybe, kind of hurricane, but we did tour St. Kitt and the Fort Brimstone which was interesting. If you are a Caribbean History buff, its a must see. There was an opportunity for a little shopping and we had lunch at a local restaurant. (Get the chicken wrap thing)

I enjoyed the boat, the diving, and the food was always incredible, but Thursday, our 5th day of diving, things just went sideways.

After our first dive on Thursday, Captain Sarah said that her sources in the US had informed her that Hurricane Earl could become a problem. We were South of the lateral movement of the storm, still a long way away, and the storm was moving North-East. We would do the second dive and our diving was done. The boat packed up and motored 3 hours ish North back to St. Maarten. The weather was beautiful. They did not have space at the dock so we spent the evening and next morning anchored in the harbor. We were allowed to swim for a bit. We asked about diving around St. Maarten and were told its just not very good. No effort was made to make up the lost dives. They did arrange for a land tour Friday, some shopping opportunities, and a chance to see the airport where if a jet is taking off in the right direction the jet blast will blow tourists across the road. Interesting...but not for me. Again the weather was either beautiful, slightly cloudy, or typical Carribbean rain. Nothing remotely tropical storm worthy. Also nothing I had not dove in before.

When it came time to pay our additional fees (Port Fees, Marine Park Fees, and Fuel surcharge), the fuel surcharge went from $125 to $215 per person from when we booked. Our total fees were $960. They tried to charge 2 of our 3 snorkelers $150 each for Nitrox, and they expected a $400 tip per person. Direct tipping in cash was not allowed and the crewmember you wished to reward would have to turn it over to the Capitan.

I also had a Nitrox Issue that I planned to dive air for the first few days and then if I was feeling tired, I would switch to Nitrox for the remainder of the week. I'm one of the ones that I feel less tried after a dive on Nitrox...placebo or not. I was told they were not set up to do that and I either had to dive air or nitrox for the whole week. 2 or 3 tanks away was a couple diving air only. Across the boat was a guy diving air only. They were doing both air and Nitrox fills at every fill so it was never explained to me why "They were not set up that way." I feel like they gigged me for $150 right off the bat. Sure I dove Nitrox, but I didn't really want it.

I appreciate a Captain that wants to err on the side of caution, but I feel that the trigger was pulled to cancel the trip far too early and we certainly could have finished Thursdays dives.

The trip back was uneventful. Miami Airport is always a shitshow and the line to clear customs was probably 300 yards long BEFORE you made it to the zig-zag taped lanes. That took over an hour and half to clear. We stayed the night in Miami and came back to OKC via Dallas on Sunday

For the right deal, I'd probably do it again....maybe...

Safe Travels Everyone,
Jay
 
Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like you had a good liveaboard trip other than leaving early. Nothing beats nothing to do but dive, enjoy the view, then dive again. I do like erring on the side of not testing a hurricane but could imagine it sucked sitting in port in good weather.

To really evaluate some of the costs, we'd need to see them as %. Tip per person vs total trip per person (minus fees). Separately, the "$960 total fees" was for 2 people (port and park fees = $265) (otherwise $960/18 = ~$50)?

BTW, I think they don't hunt lionfish there because they are native and have predators, while they get out of control elsewhere because they have no local predators.
 
To really evaluate some of the costs, we'd need to see them as %. Tip per person vs total trip per person (minus fees). Separately, the "$960 total fees" was for 2 people (port and park fees = $265) (otherwise $960/18 = ~$50)?
I think the base cost per person was around $2200 each. The breakdown for both of us was Port and Marine Park $230, Fuel Surcharge $430, and Nitrox Fills $300. The additional $90 each on the fuel charge was a surprise. It apparently changed in August but I didn't get the memo. Total out of pocket for the trip for both was around $5400, not including airfare or tip.

The trip was booked as a package that included air, so the 2200 is a rough estimate. Still a good trip, just too short.

Jay
 
Appreciate your report. I’m interested in this boat. Would be loathe to miss Saba if I went on it.

We asked about diving around St. Maarten and were told its just not very good.
Some trip reports on ScubaBoard differ from that opinion. And it’d be better than missing dives, I would think.
BTW, I think they don't hunt lionfish there because they are native
They’re not native in the Caribbean.
 
Thanks for the trip report. Sounds like you had a good liveaboard trip other than leaving early. Nothing beats nothing to do but dive, enjoy the view, then dive again. I do like erring on the side of not testing a hurricane but could imagine it sucked sitting in port in good weather.

To really evaluate some of the costs, we'd need to see them as %. Tip per person vs total trip per person (minus fees). Separately, the "$960 total fees" was for 2 people (port and park fees = $265) (otherwise $960/18 = ~$50)?

BTW, I think they don't hunt lionfish there because they are native and have predators, while they get out of control elsewhere because they have no local predators.
Lionfish are absolutely not native to Saba - the DMs are not permitted to kill them due to Saba marine park regulations. The park staff sometimes go out and attempt to cull the lionfish population (or at least they did a few years back). The local reef sharks will eat lionfish once they have been speared / shot.
 
When we did that trip we stayed on St Martin for a few days after and dove. While undoubtedly a fluke, it was the best diving of the trip. Seems silly for them not to try, unless it's a matter of permits they don't have. (They used to do Statia which was reputed to be very good, but I heard they dropped it when permits got too expensive there.)
 
I’ve been diving with Explorer Ventures quite a few times and the captain has always bent over backwards to accommodate our diving requests. Hard to believe that even if the diving was crappy that she wouldn’t let you dive somewhere near St Martin. That would irritate me also.
I also find it odd that they didn't even attempt to dive SXM if it was calm there...in my experience, the diving is not the best, but as you say it's better than sitting on the boat.

@Jayfarmlaw was there a purser on board? I would highly recommend bringing your concerns to the person in that role ie the issue with switching to nitrox. That also seems odd to me - if someone is not nitrox certified and completes a course while onboard, they dive part of the week on air & part on nitrox, so why couldn't you? Sounds to me like maybe just an issue of inexperienced crew.

Sorry to hear that you had a less than ideal trip. For the record, I'm a former crew member and can see a lot of ways that some of your issues could have been handled in a better way. I think overall EV is a good company with caring and dedicated staff - I hope you give them another try and that they show you a better time next go-round if you do. You might consider writing a letter & sharing the experiences you've mentioned here with the home office. For one, it helps them to improve service and on top of that they might offer you a break on a return trip - you never know.
 
Next time skip the liveaboard and go to Statia.

 

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