canon g16

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I am sorry to say but I have looked into hard wired connections that are indeed available for my camera as I have a bulkhead and for compacts there are no benefits. The strobe recycle time of the few models that have an hot shoe is so fast that a wired connection is not worth it. For what concerns the battery drain that is also overrated as those same cameras above are all rated to 300+ shots and my personal experience is that with the right settings and strobe you can get much more than that before you open the housing. An accessory port can be out to much better use to install a vacuum leak detector and them opening an housing between dives is not an issue anymore as you know for a fact your housing is watertight. When I have been looking into the hard wired option I have actually had a chance to speak with some pro here and they all shoot fibre optic now. The fact you can repair the cable on the field and you can make your own with pennies is very appealing and even photographers in their 60s have abandoned wired connections. In my last 5 trips I have met only one person with wired strobes and I do meet a lot of people. For what concerns then buying an aluminium housing like nauticam vs getting a plastic ikelite with a TTL converter or just a plastic housing my informed guess knowing a few shop owners that stock all of those is that pretty much nobody buys a plastic housing with a TTL converter for a compact. If this was such a superior technology with added benefits i would not understand why those housing are always special orders whilst the others are on stock considering some of the other models cost even more. Anyway as I said if the op believes there is a benefit going in that direction so be it at least I can ignore the dozens of Pms is sending me!
 
Hi interceptor. I have gained 1 benefit from wired over optical for my P&S. And that is flash recycle time. You mention up to 3 second cycle time for optical based systems. I used to be able to run around 2 second cycle time on optical. That was way too slow. This was limited by my camera flash recycle time, not my strobes. I now run 4 frames per second wired. Same camera, same strobes. That is a significant improvement. It all makes sense since my strobes have more battery power than my camera. They can recycle much faster than my camera.

Optical is simpler. But it is not always better. For me, wired outperforms optical for a P&S. For me, there is a meaningful benefit for wired compact cameras.

One size does not fit all. Different people need different solutions.

P.S. Have you tried wired with your camera? I think you will be amazed with the results. Give it a try, come over to the dark side!
 
Hi interceptor. I have gained 1 benefit from wired over optical for my P&S. And that is flash recycle time. You mention up to 3 second cycle time for optical based systems. I used to be able to run around 2 second cycle time on optical. That was way too slow. This was limited by my camera flash recycle time, not my strobes. I now run 4 frames per second wired. Same camera, same strobes. That is a significant improvement. It all makes sense since my strobes have more battery power than my camera. They can recycle much faster than my camera.

Optical is simpler. But it is not always better. For me, wired outperforms optical for a P&S. For me, there is a meaningful benefit for wired compact cameras.

One size does not fit all. Different people need different solutions.

P.S. Have you tried wired with your camera? I think you will be amazed with the results. Give it a try, come over to the dark side!

3 second is the worst case usually the strobe takes longer. I have tried wiring the camera and it is a failure (for other reasons though as the camera has liveview I can't see a thing on the LCD). I use the M16 port of my housing for a vacuum leak detector so I can change batteries of my camera half hour before the dive and be safe. If I have to choose again between using the bulkhead for a leak detector or to put a nikonos cable and introduce other two points of flooding I think my choice remains the same.
I am really not interested resurrecting any discussions on wired strobe as a matter of fact they are on the way to extinction new TTL converter with optical capability will definitely kill the whole wired strobe legacy. It is just a matter of time
 
I agree with all of the above ... the less holes through your housing the safer it will be ... fact.
When I used a strobe triggered by fibre, I never found me waiting for camera flash to recycle ... it was set on minimum power and was always much faster than the strobe.
With improvement in battery technology things will improve for strobe .. and camera .. delta is likely to remain.
 
To all (again) :)

First, Tafflad...........YES, less holes might be better but I still hear people clamoring for a control drilled for every button on their camera despite the fact 90% never get pushed as most divers can't figure out how to shoot their camera above water.......So we really should obsess over a flash connection to a camera that has a hot shoe?

Please.............This is the same argument for DIN tanks versus plain old o-ring yoke valves used by 10's of thousands for sport to maybe 50M all over the world every day? It's meaningless.......

Rob, yes please excuse the fact 1/50 of my frame after cropping and spending what, 90 seconds adjusting my shot of a Queen Triggerfish is on sand and not "picture perfect".......I'll still choose TTL and a hot shoe especially for moving animals if it's available on my chosen camera............

I also freely confess to being the laziest underwater photographer who only works a bit on shots that are to my liking in my old age.....LOL.......

My prime reason for the previous long post and continued disagreement with Interceptor and a few others is they tout and pontificate that THEIR way is THE only choice quoting specs, imaginary problems, statements such as "I know ONLY optical shooters who use METAL housings" and more......Big deal...........I can mention "big names" and all propping up my point too.............

The endless droning of how THEIR way is the only way for people to have fun recording images underwater......What a depressing point of view.......

For his camera choices and others he's happy. Good for him..........

giffenk and rks presented their opinions so the OP (seaworm) can hear from other shooters........It's up to him to choose and I've lost track of what camera he has, sold, bought another, etc. Hell, picking something and going diving after some pool practice would serve better than hand wringing about the gear...........

If we were all together sharing some diving, UW shooting and a post dive drink I'm sure we'd get along..........Maybe disagreeing but having fun..........I HAVE been told I am approachable, even likable and juvenile enough to fool people about my chronological age :)

I only throw out the time age details when all the measurbating becomes too much to bear......Not trying to change anyone's made up mind but sharing another opinion.........

After all, on this site and any web site today everyone's an expert!

Safe Diving,

David Haas
www.haasimages.com

PS - Rob, is this one OK or still have a sliver of not perfect exposure and sunball? LOL.....Just kidding and no offense intended :)
 

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I have tried wiring the camera and it is a failure (for other reasons though as the camera has liveview I can't see a thing on the LCD).
It's unfortunate that your dabble on the dark side of wired strobes was unsuccessful. Can you create a separate thread on this? (Or did you already?). It would be useful to have additional facts so we can understand if the issue was camera, setup or strobe related. Having all the facts at hand will help all of us understand the various options available and make better decisions.
Cheers...
 
I have posted on my blog and on the Sony section the case is closed there would have been a little advantage using sync cord speed wise but I got around it and considering the cost of the cables and how easy they break plus the fact I like the leak detector much better I am really not bothered. The op here has been sending me messages and getting some level of advice people usually pay me for and still felt he ended to post it in the public eye fine but am done with it
 
I have posted on my blog and on the Sony section the case is closed there would have been a little advantage using sync cord speed wise but I got around it and considering the cost of the cables and how easy they break plus the fact I like the leak detector much better I am really not bothered. The op here has been sending me messages and getting some level of advice people usually pay me for and still felt he ended to post it in the public eye fine but am done with it
i could not find the thread using the search function. Can you provide a link to it.
Thanks
 
Sony RX100 Mark II Bulkhead Connection Flop | Interceptor121 Underwater Photo & Video Blog
https://interceptor121.wordpress.com/2014/02/16/sony-rx100-mark-ii-bulkhead-connection-flop/

That's an excellent write up on why the design of that particular connector fails. IkeLite housings for instance have all the pins for Canon flashes and with a G16 (Which I assume we're still discussing because that's the thread) you'll have full TTL with the advantages I mentioned about not burning the on-board battery, not having to open the housings. We've done this all before, I'm stating some facts, and you're stating opinions if you can be clear about which is which it helps people understand what you're saying. It's a fact that using a wired strobe will reduce battery draw on the camera. It's an opinion that this is better and that I like to not open the case. It's a fact that an optical connection will reduce the number of holes in the housing by one, but it's an opinion if this is important or not, given the number of holes in the housing.

You're blog as I said is an illustration of one product having a flaw, and a great thing to point out as something to look for before investing in that or any other product if what you wish is to run wired strobes.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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