Canon G10 - Patima or Ikelite?
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That's a pretty severe mistake on their side.
Can you tell me, did the housing for the G9 have threads on both ports?
Only seen this housing for a brief moment and paid more attention to the craftmanship in general rather than important detail. Go figure.
What's your opinion on my theory of beeing able to do decent macro with the short port on?
Atleast on land I would say the G10 has a very good macrofunction even at the widest.
Can you tell me, did the housing for the G9 have threads on both ports?
Only seen this housing for a brief moment and paid more attention to the craftmanship in general rather than important detail. Go figure.
What's your opinion on my theory of beeing able to do decent macro with the short port on?
Atleast on land I would say the G10 has a very good macrofunction even at the widest.
Just got a reply from Reef, the standard port is most definetly NOT threaded. But there is a press on M67 adapter for the zoom port allowing the attachment of macro lenses.
So for the strobes, I've been looking at the following:
Inon D-2000
Inon Z-240
S&S YS-110a
Are any of these non-compatible with the Patima housing?
Are there any other makes or models that are good and prefferably cheap?
I intend to run them via fiberoptic, atleast for a start.
//Goneaway
So for the strobes, I've been looking at the following:
Inon D-2000
Inon Z-240
S&S YS-110a
Are any of these non-compatible with the Patima housing?
Are there any other makes or models that are good and prefferably cheap?
I intend to run them via fiberoptic, atleast for a start.
//Goneaway
Hi Goneaway,
It must be an aftermarket add on for the screw adapter for the zoom port.
All three of those flash units are compatible.
The short port is more than compatible for macro the only limitation being the fact you can't zoom with this port. There is a small thumb screw comes with the housing that you need to fit before you use the port to prevent the zoom lever from moving to stop the lens from hitting the inside of the port assembly.
Maddog59:mooner:
PNG Diver
Registered
Thankyou SO MUCH Maddog, for taking the time to help us both out. Answers I have spent hours searching for are finally becoming clear. Im not sure that I would need or even want all of these wet mount options. But its good to understand what the options might be before I spend the cash.
I just noticed also that with Ikelites new housing for the G11, they are advertising a new adaptor that you can slide on for mounting 67mm macro lenses.
So if there is a 67mm adaptor for the long/macro port on the Patima, Im still wondering if a 67mm Fantasea Bigeye Dome would work on the long/macro port. If so, then you should be able to zoom wider - (like with the Ilkelite dome). And if you carried it with you on a WA dive with the short port, you would have 3 possible focal lengths, even if you cant zoom: 1) No wetmount lens 2) Bigeye and 3) New lens from Reef . Ill write to Fantasea to find out if this has been done - and Ill post their response here.
Another good option for a macro lens might be the Reefnet Subsee adaptor. You can flip it in and out, rather than detaching it - which might be really convenient. And I think they have started making them for attaching 67mm Wet Mount lenses. Ill write to Reefnet and see if they can make one for the long port of the Patima housing - and Ill post their response here.
In terms of macro work, it might depend on whether you want to photograph still subjects like nudibranchs and slugs - versus small, timid, moving fish. With a still subject, I would have thought you could get as close as you want with a wide-angle setting and take a good picture. My experience is with bird photography, where it doesnt matter how much you spend on longer and more expensive telephoto lenses, you never seem to get close enough before the subject takes off. And now I think I might be interested in small and timid fish! So Im pretty sure that I will want to be able to use the longer end of the zoom.
But what Id really love to know now is whether the 140mm on the G10/G11 versus the 105mm on the S90 will make any practical difference in the real world underwater - with or without a macro wet mount lens.
Rob
I just noticed also that with Ikelites new housing for the G11, they are advertising a new adaptor that you can slide on for mounting 67mm macro lenses.
So if there is a 67mm adaptor for the long/macro port on the Patima, Im still wondering if a 67mm Fantasea Bigeye Dome would work on the long/macro port. If so, then you should be able to zoom wider - (like with the Ilkelite dome). And if you carried it with you on a WA dive with the short port, you would have 3 possible focal lengths, even if you cant zoom: 1) No wetmount lens 2) Bigeye and 3) New lens from Reef . Ill write to Fantasea to find out if this has been done - and Ill post their response here.
Another good option for a macro lens might be the Reefnet Subsee adaptor. You can flip it in and out, rather than detaching it - which might be really convenient. And I think they have started making them for attaching 67mm Wet Mount lenses. Ill write to Reefnet and see if they can make one for the long port of the Patima housing - and Ill post their response here.
In terms of macro work, it might depend on whether you want to photograph still subjects like nudibranchs and slugs - versus small, timid, moving fish. With a still subject, I would have thought you could get as close as you want with a wide-angle setting and take a good picture. My experience is with bird photography, where it doesnt matter how much you spend on longer and more expensive telephoto lenses, you never seem to get close enough before the subject takes off. And now I think I might be interested in small and timid fish! So Im pretty sure that I will want to be able to use the longer end of the zoom.
But what Id really love to know now is whether the 140mm on the G10/G11 versus the 105mm on the S90 will make any practical difference in the real world underwater - with or without a macro wet mount lens.
Rob
I have never used the G10 with the zoom at its full extent. I tend to try to get as close as I can and then use a little bit of zoom (maybe 10 or 20% max). You need to get as close as you can to keep as little of the water column between you and you subject. And get as much light as you can underwater on to the subject.
As for the comparrison between the G10 and the S90 one is a serious attempt by the manufacturer to bridge the gap between the P&S style cameras and DSLR's the other is a P&S camera for people who want to take high end snapshots. (my opinion!)
Also PNG Diver you need to remember that taking a camera system underwater is a compromise from the begining no matter what lens you have on, the opposite need will arrive during a dive, so you need to be able to adjust to each situation. So if a 6 meter Tiger shark swims in on you while your camera is set up for Macro don't curse about it just take a photo of its eye or a tooth!!!!
What I'm trying to say is, that no setup will be all things for all dives and you have to set up for one thing and go with that on one dive and then if you feel in the mood or the dive site dictates, change for your next dive! If you have to many options you won't use any of them to their fullest extent.
If you continue to read these forum sites you will hear people talking of how they took 250 or more photo's on a dive and if you do the maths and devide the time it takes to shoot 250 photos against the length of time underwater you begin to see that you can't possibly enjoy the moment other then to say I took 250 photo's. Before this camera system I was shooting with a Hasseblad 500EL and housing and that would only allow me to take 12 shots on a roll of film and sometime I could make that last for two or three dives and still get a couple of good keepers.
I've been doing this for a long time and I forget the number of times that I have had conversations with other divers after a fabulous dive who have said "that was a boring dive I didn't see anything worth looking at!" Take your time and look for subjects that fit your setup and when you find one take a number of shots from a number of positions with a number of different settings and try to get one or two good shots of the subject. If I had one photo for every dive I have done I would still have over 5500 high quality images to catalogue, and beleive me I have a lot more than that to work with. But I also have a huge amount of mental images of things I have seen underwater and around diving to last me forever.
Maddog59
As for the comparrison between the G10 and the S90 one is a serious attempt by the manufacturer to bridge the gap between the P&S style cameras and DSLR's the other is a P&S camera for people who want to take high end snapshots. (my opinion!)
Also PNG Diver you need to remember that taking a camera system underwater is a compromise from the begining no matter what lens you have on, the opposite need will arrive during a dive, so you need to be able to adjust to each situation. So if a 6 meter Tiger shark swims in on you while your camera is set up for Macro don't curse about it just take a photo of its eye or a tooth!!!!
What I'm trying to say is, that no setup will be all things for all dives and you have to set up for one thing and go with that on one dive and then if you feel in the mood or the dive site dictates, change for your next dive! If you have to many options you won't use any of them to their fullest extent.
If you continue to read these forum sites you will hear people talking of how they took 250 or more photo's on a dive and if you do the maths and devide the time it takes to shoot 250 photos against the length of time underwater you begin to see that you can't possibly enjoy the moment other then to say I took 250 photo's. Before this camera system I was shooting with a Hasseblad 500EL and housing and that would only allow me to take 12 shots on a roll of film and sometime I could make that last for two or three dives and still get a couple of good keepers.
I've been doing this for a long time and I forget the number of times that I have had conversations with other divers after a fabulous dive who have said "that was a boring dive I didn't see anything worth looking at!" Take your time and look for subjects that fit your setup and when you find one take a number of shots from a number of positions with a number of different settings and try to get one or two good shots of the subject. If I had one photo for every dive I have done I would still have over 5500 high quality images to catalogue, and beleive me I have a lot more than that to work with. But I also have a huge amount of mental images of things I have seen underwater and around diving to last me forever.
Maddog59
Last edited:
CheddarChick
Contributor
Thanks guys for all the info on these new Canons...I played with G11 friday at Best Buy and it is sweet.. Can you use the ISO selection dial in the patima housing? Are all the functions accessible???? In shooting in RAW how fast can you fire off shots??? Wow...soooooo many questions, Thanks!
Hi Guys,
If I had to make my choice of flashes again I would still go with the2 x Z240/4's and as my second I would go with the D2000's if dollars were the issue. (Maybe even one of each) But they are just my choices and different people have different expectations from their flashes.
As for the G9 housing I have no idea what its particular properties are as I have only seen the G10 and Yes CheddarChick the ISO dial is accessible with the Patima housing as are all the buttons and dials on the camera.
As for the question about RAW photo's it will depend a little on the speed of your memory card but I have just started to play around with some sequence shooting and at 1.7sec cycles I'm not having any problems. But still no hard data as yet. I shoot exclusively in RAW on all manual settings and turn off the JPeg copy from in the menu. I want the best image quality I can get.
Maddog59
If I had to make my choice of flashes again I would still go with the2 x Z240/4's and as my second I would go with the D2000's if dollars were the issue. (Maybe even one of each) But they are just my choices and different people have different expectations from their flashes.
As for the G9 housing I have no idea what its particular properties are as I have only seen the G10 and Yes CheddarChick the ISO dial is accessible with the Patima housing as are all the buttons and dials on the camera.
As for the question about RAW photo's it will depend a little on the speed of your memory card but I have just started to play around with some sequence shooting and at 1.7sec cycles I'm not having any problems. But still no hard data as yet. I shoot exclusively in RAW on all manual settings and turn off the JPeg copy from in the menu. I want the best image quality I can get.
Maddog59
CheddarChick
Contributor
Thanks Maddog
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