Canoe outrigger project

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2airishuman

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Messages
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Location
Greater Minnesota
# of dives
200 - 499
The only boat I have is a 17 Wenonah. It's a midweight kevlar layup weighing about 55 pounds, light enough that I can get it on and off the car myself, big enough to carry two people with gear, or maybe three people with no gear if they're not all my size and I put in the jump seat. I like it.

This summer I'm thinking of using it to dive some river locations that don't have shore access. These are locations where you put in, run the river for a mile, dive in a deep pool, and run the river for another mile or two and take out. Not a fun swim but a peaceful canoe trip in the wilderness. They'll more or less be mud puddle dives, shallow, poor vis, nothing to see but the carp and debris. Still, something local. The banks can be steep and rocky so I can't count on beaching the boat.

I can reboard the little craft in deep water even without a wetsuit or fins, but it's not easy or graceful, and not something that my available dive buddies are likely to want to try. I'm thinking of making an outrigger. There are a few commercial ones for sale out there but they are geared towards use while moving, more emphasis on streamlining than on sufficient flotation to maintain stability for reboarding.

I think that with a stirrup, a single outrigger, and a very moderate amount of balance and athleticism, it should be possible to board it from the water. Similarly it should be easy to get a scuba kit in or out of the water without tipping.

I think I can make a prototype by cutting the curves out of a piece of 1x12. If I like it I might remake it in a wood strip layup to make it lighter.

I'm currently leaning towards using a snowmobile trailer inner tube for flotation, rather than foam, for ease of storage. The intent is to remove the outrigger and keep it in the canoe while running, and deploy it when needed. My drawing isn't to scale but shows the idea. The braces interlock with the gunwale on the boarding side, and would be held in place with a clamp on the nonboarding side where there isn't as much stress.

upload_2016-2-10_17-7-59.png


I know that to the extent that people dive from paddle craft at all, they use kayaks. They're more in vogue than canoes overall in the outdoor recreation scene, for one thing, and unmodified are easier to reboard. Any serious canoeist will tell you their limitations. Chief among them is that they are awkward on land. I can carry my canoe down a flight of stairs or a steep unimproved trail, balancing it with one hand leaving the other free for holding the handrail if necessary, and still see where I am going. It is lighter than a kayak large enough to carry even one diver and gear as those average around 70 pounds.
 
You might look into using a piece of capped pvc pipe in lieu of the wood. You would get a better float to weight ratio.
 
Cut your amas out of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood, rather than 1x12, and then just seal it with some marine epoxy (or get some kevlar that matches your boat and wrap it). Then there's no need to remake them (unless it's just for aesthetics). As for the actual outrigger itself, I'd take a 2 or 3 inch piece of pvc and heat it then mold it to the shape of the gunwhale of the boat. Then make a cradle that holds it on the outside of the gunwhale when not being used. No interference with seating area or other gear that way.

Then the only question is where do you stow the amas when the outrigger is stowed.

An innertube, unless very heavy weight, isn't going to be stable enough when you're trying to get in and out of the boat. Especially if you don't leave it as an intact ring. Think of how a pool noodle bends in the middle when you put weight on it and you'll start to envision the problem with an innertube. A PVC piece will have the rigidity you need to use it as an extra step when getting back in from the water and will be more than sufficient with flotation. You could make it even a 4 inch piece of PVC but that would start to interfere with paddle clearance when not deployed, I think. (This all assumes you mean to get into the boat from the outrigger side- using it like a ladder- rather than using the stirrup on the opposite side. If that's your intent then an innertube may be sufficient. I'd still opt for the PVC, personally, but at that point I don't know that it would be necessary.)

I will also recommend posting this in the DIY area here and looking at www.kayakforum.com That's a kayak building bulletin board that I've been reading for years where you can get a lot of great feedback and some building insights.
 
I considered a project like this, before, but I never got around to actually doing it. Looking forward to the results.
 
I would suggest making the outrigger long enough and wide enough to re board the canoe from the inside. That will give you the greatest stability for reboarding. More Length and width give the greatest stability and flotation per lbs.
Just some thoughts
 
Thanks, Rich. I've thought of that, too. I want to be able to carry the outrigger in the canoe when they are not in use, and deploy them only at anchor. That limits the size. To make the outrigger wide enough to accommodate reboarding between the rails, I think I would have to make it possible to disassemble the outrigger for stowage (to the point where the fore and aft rails could be stored separately). That adds complexity and weight.

At present I'm planning to make the outrigger in two pieces. The float will be removable from the arm assembly.
 
I know that to the extent that people dive from paddle craft at all, they use kayaks. They're more in vogue than canoes overall in the outdoor recreation scene, for one thing, and unmodified are easier to reboard. Any serious canoeist will tell you their limitations. Chief among them is that they are awkward on land. I can carry my canoe down a flight of stairs or a steep unimproved trail, balancing it with one hand leaving the other free for holding the handrail if necessary, and still see where I am going. It is lighter than a kayak large enough to carry even one diver and gear as those average around 70 pounds.

Kayaks are not just in vogue without reason, they are far superior in most uses (for diving and fishing) to a canoe except perhaps in flat water. The SOT kayak is more seaworthy and self bailing and is to some degree, unsinkable (yes and no, it depends). And the rotomolded one piece construction, while somewhat heavy, takes the beating of heavy (dive) equipment and abusive use and shrugs it off.

N
 
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Would it make sense to buy a really cheap little kayak and just tow it and keep the gear in it? My kid had a kayak for like $200 when he was like 8 yrs old.
 
I looked at something like this a while ago but never got around to doing anything. You could use pontoons from a small catamaran like a Hobie Cat. Run something across the canoe that will connect all three and can be taken apart for roof top transport.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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