Canister for PLB

[scuba2you]

Agree 100%.... turn your lid tight and then back it off a smidge, the O-ring does the sealing on these canisters. They're very hard to open if they have been tightened firmly. I generally only check mine about once a year and if the lid is on tight its difficult to open on the surface.

You might try the Wicked PLB canister, its for the ACR units among others, I've had it about a year with no problems. I did just check its sold out on

I have a HDVSeaTek it leaks, I emailed the seller, I was told to use more silicon on seal, did that, it still leaks. Forget it.

After extensive research I have just last week ordered one of these:
ffsystems.co.uk - PLB Canisters

Looks the goods to me. Its on its way from the UK to Australia at the moment. I will take some photos when it arrives.

Here is a photo from there website:
View attachment 602471

It is an obvious question, but the answer is not so obvious.
The short answer is NO, the PLB cannot withstand 5 ATM.
The pressure outside the container might be 5 ATM, but the pressure inside is anything between 1 ATM and 5 ATM, depending on the ratio of water and air inside. A little bit of air takes up a lot of the pressure, and compresses. No air -- all water -- means the canister is essentially fully open to the outside ambient pressure, and it is 5 ATM inside///NOT good for the PLB! UNLESS the water is in the canister before it is closed...and the canister is working as it should and preventing any pressure from outside getting inside; now the pressure inside is still 1 ATM, as it was when it was closed up. A wet 1 ATM, to be sure, but the PLB will survive. The situation we are considering is the canister being closed while dry, so it is 1 ATM inside. At depth, we suppose the canister leaks a little and some water gets inside......the pressure only goes up a little, and the air compresses until the inside pressure matches the small increase caused by a small leak. We know the pressure inside is not the full (say) 5 ATM ambient pressure outside, because that would mean the canister is full of water.

So, yes, a small amount of water inside might be OK, but I don't know how to estimate how much water is OK. I'd prefer none...i.e., a canister that stays dry inside as it should.

Spot on, there is no leak in a PLB canister that is acceptable for a variety of reasons, I don't touch my canister once sealed for 6 months or even a year, I need to know its dry. I also use a model that has a bit more kit in a compact size for the ACR models. Exposure protection and night signaling being two of them.

 

[seeker242]

So my ResQLink+ is waterproof to 5ATM of pressure?

A small leak is not at 5ATM of pressure. And the OP made no mention of ever going that deep to begin with. Like it says in his profile “just an average recreational diver”

 

[seeker242]

Some cars only have a FOB. I'd rather my $1000 camera get stolen out of my car than have my significantly more expensive car get stolen because I hid my fob in the car.

Accepting a "Leak proof" container as ok if it leaks is not acceptable in my book.

Sharing the information that your leak proof canister leaks even after following the makers suggestions is helpful to those of us who have IQs lower than 50....

Did the OP mention anything about wanting to keep a key fob in there? No he did not. If the PLB needs to be dry, then you shouldn’t be bringing that PLB into a marine environment to begin with. An Aqualink PLB does not need to be dry, that’s why it’s called an “aqua” link. Aqua means water. Water is wet. Obviously.

 

[scuba2you]

I think "purpose of use" matters here. If you close your canister and don't want to check it for water every dive, its best to have a canister that doesn't leak at all, as we all know leaks are cumulative and leaks can get worse etc.

There are canisters for the ASCR that don't leak, it would seem to me that would be a better solution than arguing over a leaking canister being good enough or not.

 

[RogueClimber]

Did the OP mention anything about wanting to keep a key fob in there? No he did not. If the PLB needs to be dry, then you shouldn’t be bringing that PLB into a marine environment to begin with. An Aqualink PLB does not need to be dry, that’s why it’s called an “aqua” link. Aqua means water. Water is wet. Obviously.

Well I feel fully scolded by our expert here.

I NEVER knew aqua meant water. WOW!

Sorry I was just trying to add a consideration that many divers need to keep in mind if they are buying a leaky canister. Though they may have the aqualink PLB they may not want to add a keyfob to said canister....

I'm glad to see you serving as such a goodwill ambassador for your company.

 

[seeker242]

Well I feel fully scolded by our expert here.

I NEVER knew aqua meant water. WOW!

Sorry I was just trying to add a consideration that many divers need to keep in mind if they are buying a leaky canister. Though they may have the aqualink PLB they may not want to add a keyfob to said canister....

I NEVER knew that water is wet, and I'm sure others did not either, WOW! Thanks for pointing that out!

 

[chillyinCanada]

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[Bonaireboy]

I got square profile O-rings to get three larger mating surfaces:

O-ring on lid
View attachment 602888

I've thought about making a lid for a PVC pipe canister, but was thinking of doing one or two o-rings on the smaller portion that extends into the canister. I know it would be more work to make the cap that way, but my though is that combining axial and radial sealing would ensure better performance if the axial seal has a leak. Any input feedback on that design?

 

[aviator8]

I've thought about making a lid for a PVC pipe canister, but was thinking of doing one or two o-rings on the smaller portion that extends into the canister. I know it would be more work to make the cap that way, but my though is that combining axial and radial sealing would ensure better performance if the axial seal has a leak. Any input feedback on that design?

I haven't tried to build one so, If I understand what you are saying you would be trying to get 4 mating surfaces vs 3 by additional lip for the o'ring into the canister. It offers one more line of defense but requires more precise fitment when building.

 

[Bonaireboy]

I haven't tried to build one so, If I understand what you are saying you would be trying to get 4 mating surfaces vs 3 by additional lip for the o'ring into the canister. It offers one more line of defense but requires more precise fitment when building.

I’d keep the axial o-ring like you already have, then add one on the smaller part similar to compression and scraper rings on an engine’s piston if that makes sense.