Camera-Strobe Problem

[Puffer Fish]

Thanks Puffer Fish.

i tried it using an ISO of 80, but the photos are 9/10 blurry with such a low ISO. Is there any way to offset that?

Thank you again!

Need to see an image...there is motion blur and focus blur.. need to know which one...

Here is an picture taken this weekend on a night dive.. on dark brown rocks...... so the light required was pretty high:

As you can see, pretty bleak environment.

I was using only one strobe (needed a hand free)...

 

[Puffer Fish]

Thanks Puffer Fish.

i tried it using an ISO of 80, but the photos are 9/10 blurry with such a low ISO. Is there any way to offset that?

Thank you again!

Shutter speed is (unless you change it) fixed at 1/60 with a strobe...low iso would result in dark images, not blurry ones.

That, as brewski pointed out, either motion blur or focus blur.. need to know which one to fix.

 

[Puffer Fish]

Actually, I tend to get the "frozen fish" look a lot, from a really short flash...does not look real sometimes.

 

[texasaubiefan]

So if your strobe is connected via fiber, that means it's firing when it sees a flash. The camera maybe doing TTL, but the strobe is not. A couple of suggestions. Use your diffuser. Turn the light away from the focus area a bit. Allow the edge of your light to hit your subject not focus directly on it. Most P&Ss use auto ISO. Turn it off and set it as low as it'll go. Lastly, turn down the power on the 110's. I use them and you can definitely decrease the power.

 

[Titanite]

Hello!! Well after a lot of playing around and a BIG THANK YOU TO everyone especially PUFFER FISH for looking at some of the photos and diagnosing the problem. After testing the settings that Gert7to3 and Pufferfish gave me originally, I was experiencing blurry images. After Pufferfish took a look at the photo, for some reason my camera had a shutter speed of 1sec rather than 1/60th. Problem was that when I installed the CHDK Canon hack, it has an override setting when shooting raw that was set at 1 sec. I cant believe it took that long to sort out.

I am having good success shooting in both underwater mode with macro and also manual mode with macro and spot metering, both at ISO 80.

Thanks you guys! Now hopefully something interesting swims along to test on rather than the stuff in my basement!

Cheers!
T

 

[Puffer Fish]

So if your strobe is connected via fiber, that means it's firing when it sees a flash. The camera maybe doing TTL, but the strobe is not. A couple of suggestions. Use your diffuser. Turn the light away from the focus area a bit. Allow the edge of your light to hit your subject not focus directly on it. Most P&Ss use auto ISO. Turn it off and set it as low as it'll go. Lastly, turn down the power on the 110's. I use them and you can definitely decrease the power.

The strobe is capable of a very neat form of TTL... it mimics the pattern of the camera... turning the preflash on when the camera's is on.. turning it off when the camera's is turned off, and then setting itself to those settings...can work amazingly well.. or not at all depending on the camera....seems to work great with canon's..

 

[Puffer Fish]

Hello!! Well after a lot of playing around and a BIG THANK YOU TO everyone especially PUFFER FISH for looking at some of the photos and diagnosing the problem. After testing the settings that Gert7to3 and Pufferfish gave me originally, I was experiencing blurry images. After Pufferfish took a look at the photo, for some reason my camera had a shutter speed of 1sec rather than 1/60th. Problem was that when I installed the CHDK Canon hack, it has an override setting when shooting raw that was set at 1 sec. I cant believe it took that long to sort out.

I am having good success shooting in both underwater mode with macro and also manual mode with macro and spot metering, both at ISO 80.

Thanks you guys! Now hopefully something interesting swims along to test on rather than the stuff in my basement!

Cheers!
T

Glad we could help....it was a very unusual issue.. and not one that could have been identified without seeing one of your pictures, and looking at the image information...

 

[Titanite]

Now that I have this working, anyone have any suggestions in terms of shooting DNG with the CHDK hack, or shooting raw? My experience trying both so far is that the raw is a cleaner image to my eyes. Now if I shoot raw and convert it with powershot DNG converter it looks worse than shooting it in DNG format within the CHDK software on the camera. Any comments? Im using mac also (some converters not available for mac).