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The only 2 divers on the entire planet who have their cameras configured in such a way so as to watermark their photos with their identification have posted on this thread.

What are the odds
It's different than watermarking. A watermark puts an overlay on the visible image and is done during post processing. This is done in the meta data, known as EXIF, which is non-visible data that is stored with the file at the time of creation. There are several user editable fields that you can set up in all DSLR and advanced point and shoot cameras. On my T1i, you have to connect it to a computer to edit them, but on my 70D you can edit them with in-camera menu options. For every single true professional photographer or serious enthusiast on the planet, changing these settings will be one of the first things you do after turning on the camera. EXIF data can be difficult to edit, so it is one option as a way to provide evidence to prove you took a photo.

I doubt there are many people willing to drop at least $1,500 on a DSLR and lens, another $2,000 on a housing, and $1,000 for lights who aren't serious about this as a hobby. Even a small, decent point and shoot package with a housing and one strobe will cost you $1,500.
 
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Ok I'll stick with my relatively cheap unbrandable GoPro and make sure I have it on a really good clip.
I've shared this pic before on a different thread.
Venn Diagram.JPG
 
Ok I'll stick with my relatively cheap unbrandable GoPro and make sure I have it on a really good clip.
@kmarks uses a faux-pro too. It's the still camera that keeps getting upgraded. (And his is relatively "inexpensive" since he doesn't dive with a DSLR, just a regular camera that will shoot in raw. The housings for DSLRs made me put my foot down.)
 
Not counting the methods of adding your name or email address into the camera's built in fields for author / copyright info the best way to do it in my opinion is by photographing a list of contact info. You can create a test file with your name. address, email address or whatever you feel will be helpful PLUS when traveling the name of where you will stay & if you know it the phone number for the hotel or whatever it is. Print it in large text & photograph it as the first photo on any & all of the memory cards you will take with you. You can also add it to the memory card using a card reader & computer BUT that text file won't be available to anyone going through your photos trying to find you. The camera will only display photos or videos on it's LCD. If however the memory card is inserted into a card reader the text file will show up. IF you format your cards after downloading you will need to photograph the text file again.
As for using your email address as a volume label it's easily done with a card reader & computer BUT you are limited to 11 characters so it needs to be a simple email address. Insert card into card reader & use file explorer to view the card & contents, Right click on the cards drive letter & click on "rename" to change the volume label.
 
Formatting has a few good things going for it & I often format with my card reader & then again in camera. Formatting can clean up strange files that some how appear on cards & which can corrupt the card causing in lost photos & videos but it also removes file numbers from the last shoot. This is not necessarily bad in most cases but if you have multiple cameras like I do swapping cards between camera can change the file count in the second camera. This can happen when the second camera should have assigned it's next file number (lets say the last photo was img 5643 so the next one should be img 5644 BUT the cards last file number was img 8744, so the next file will be img 8745 in some cases). This also causes a false shutter count that may be much higher than it really is.
 
It may but not in all cases due to the software built into the camera used. When my cameras format a card they create 2 folders, one for the images & one that stores other info & I can only presume part of that other info may be the last file number used. Formatting removes all the old info so you get a fresh start.
 
Deleting all folders likely gets the same result but formatting guarantees a clean start. Even then formatting in camera seems to be the best & most often recommended method with no downside. (that is unless you did it accidentaly before downloading but good recovery software can fix that in most cases).
 
The newest camera I own is the Canon 7D mark 2 and this is the info it's manual has. It's also a topic that gets talked about on my photography forums when someone has files that are corrupt of when a camera refuses to save the photo as it's being shot

7d-mk2 manual.pdf (SECURED) - Adobe Acrobat Reader DC 6202018 75535 PM.jpg
 

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