Camera Arm Float Material?

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That's pretty good foam. A block is about 1/8 of a cubic foot, but weighs just 4.6 ounces instead of the 8 pounds a block of seawater that would weigh. Much better than syntactic, and much cheaper. The big question is how much pressure they can take, and is any deformation permanent.
 
I've 3d printed some custom fit nauticam port floats that work great. The one in the picture provides about 13oz/350 grams of buoyancy. I've used them on many dives now, below 100 feet a few times as well. The materials cost to print one of these is about $4.00 plus some epoxy sealant and a couple of m3 bolts I already have in stock. My labor is cheap!

I also made some floats for ULCS camera arms that worked, but they were heavier than Stix Jumbo floats and didn't provide much better buoyancy. Stix was just better from a weight / buoyancy comparison.

IMG20240408100430 (Small).jpg


IMG20240408100719 (Small).jpg
 
That's pretty good foam. A block is about 1/8 of a cubic foot, but weighs just 4.6 ounces instead of the 8 pounds a block of seawater that would weigh. Much better than syntactic, and much cheaper. The big question is how much pressure they can take, and is any deformation permanent.
They don’t deform much at all, at least not at rec depths. On a good day, the kit is very slightly positive on the surface and slightly negative at depth. The biggest problem I’ve had is that the ones with two laminated colors can split on the join; I’ve used cable ties to stabilize them, to good effect. But Amazon now has single-piece ones, and I just ordered a couple of pair (@$12/per) as my existing set is a few years old (and they have good colors). I halve them lengthwise on the radial saw, then press a 1.25”x12” spade bit through lengthwise to fit over 1” Nauticam float arms (or ULCS “girder” arms). I’m going to make the drilling a lot easier this time by cutting the two sections in half before drilling the holes; last time, I drilled the whole length, kind of a pain, and eventually cut them in half after figuring out that I have more control over the lift by choosing between two or four sections for different ports/lenses.
 
They don’t deform much at all, at least not at rec depths. On a good day, the kit is very slightly positive on the surface and slightly negative at depth. The biggest problem I’ve had is that the ones with two laminated colors can split on the join; I’ve used cable ties to stabilize them, to good effect. But Amazon now has single-piece ones, and I just ordered a couple of pair (@$12/per) as my existing set is a few years old (and they have good colors). I halve them lengthwise on the radial saw, then press a 1.25”x12” spade bit through lengthwise to fit over 1” Nauticam float arms (or ULCS “girder” arms). I’m going to make the drilling a lot easier this time by cutting the two sections in half before drilling the holes; last time, I drilled the whole length, kind of a pain, and eventually cut them in half after figuring out that I have more control over the lift by choosing between two or four sections for different ports/lenses.
Five Below has yoga blocks for $5 each. I might try one.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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