Calling DS Glue Experts

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Here's a crude drawing (very crude). The red line represent the suit underneath that ridge on the port. You can see on one side there is a slight gap.
Ok, if the rest of the flange is well glued I wouldn’t worry about it so long as the valve screws down properly
 
Not completely, can you just trim a bit of the suit away?

See my picture. The is looking from the outside of the suit. The only piece that you see sticking through the port is that ridge. The suit is actually supposed to go up under this ridge.

Maybe this will help.
 

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See my picture. The is looking from the outside of the suit. The only piece that you see sticking through the port is that ridge. The suit is actually supposed to go up under this ridge.

Maybe this will help.

And now that I look at my own picture I see their instructions call for a 35mm hole in neoprene suit:facepalm:

Mine was 42mm, and the port is 43mm....good grief, lol.
 
See my picture. The is looking from the outside of the suit. The only piece that you see sticking through the port is that ridge. The suit is actually supposed to go up under this ridge.

Maybe this will help.
I used a different port on my black ice suit but one like yours on my Nova, so long as the flange is well sealed on the inside and nothing gets between the valve parts it should be fine, if in doubt remove and start over.
 
I can still make it work, but it would have been WORLDS easier if I just followed the instructions!!!!
 
Aqua seal can cure all sort of drysuit ills.

Would either aquaseal or ds glue dry a solid? Enough I can just fill the gap in?

I'll take pictures when I get home
 
What glue did you use that is heat sensitive? Seal cement?

I don't think heating up aquaseal makes it un-stackable and re-stackable. Aquaseal is what I've used when I screwed up a neck seal and had a little flap sticking up. Little bit in the hole, little bit on the inside, little bit on the outside, and it was waterproof for years.
 
What glue did you use that is heat sensitive? Seal cement?

I don't think heating up aquaseal makes it un-stackable and re-stackable. Aquaseal is what I've used when I screwed up a neck seal and had a little flap sticking up. Little bit in the hole, little bit on the inside, little bit on the outside, and it was waterproof for years.

Whatever DRiS sells (I guess that's seal cement). I believe it's the same as PB-300, and also sold in home depot under another name but I can't remember.

When heated it becomes pliable again to the point it's pretty easy to pull it back apart. I like aquaseal, but that's rather permanent. Heat doesn't do a darn thing to that.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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