Butterfingers here bounced a tank - shaved off knob on one of my 130's

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Mo2vation

Relocated to South Florida....
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
7,371
Reaction score
169
Location
33472
# of dives
I just don't log dives
I was loading a couple of full singles into my truck, when one slipped on the way in and bounced off the pavement. The knob got shaved off. :11doh:

Hmmmm....

So I have a full tank that I can't turn on. Obviously I need to drain it off so I can replave the valve (or at least the guts of the valve.) What's the procedure for this?

Do I:

1) take it to my LDS, have them do all this and pay the extortion as an idiot tax as I've clearly demonstrated I'm a ham-fisted clown that can't be trusted around large, heavy metal objects


2) loosen up the burst disc slowly, drain the can and then replace the valve


3) don a kevlar vest and try to slowly spin off the valve


Seriously - I can't be the first person to do this. What happens next?

Thanks


Ken
(butterfingered loser)



68331838.wSD1NKwW.jpg
 
My vote is the burst disk. Make sure it's one that has 3 orifces so you know the tank won't start spinning on you. I think it's the only (reasonably) safe way to do it yourself.
 
Sorry to hear about that. Personally, I think #2 might be the best bet. Just make sure that bit you are loosening is pointed in a safe direction. Basically, plan for it to come flying out of the valve like a bullet. Thats probably how the dive shop would handle it.

Just my 2psi.

FD
 
For #2, I'd strap it down first with some ratchet ties. Craftsman makes a bit for electric screw drivers that back out screws/bolts that have the head busted off. You might be able to open the valve a little with it. Just a thought.
 
Can a pair of vise grips get a grip on the remaining part of the valve stem? Hard to tell how flush the shaved off end is in the picture.
 
I think the loosening of the burst disk is the safest way to do this. Don't be too afraid of the tank wildly spinning out of control... I had a 4,000 psi burst disk rupture while the tank was standing up and besides a very loud noise and a little ice buildup nothing else happened. Maybe in the movies the tank would spin wildly out of control but luckily this is reality.
 
I hear Whalerkyle is looking for a tank . . . :D :D
 
scott&sara:
I think the loosening of the burst disk is the safest way to do this. Don't be too afraid of the tank wildly spinning out of control... I had a 4,000 psi burst disk rupture while the tank was standing up and besides a very loud noise and a little ice buildup nothing else happened. Maybe in the movies the tank would spin wildly out of control but luckily this is reality.

Older burst disk assemblies had only one vent hole. Thus the tanks spun wildly out of control. There has been an effort to replace those with new 3 orfice types, which keep the tank from spinning.

I watched two spinners and one new type go off this summer in the Florida sun. Very different results.
 
Another untried suggestion: Drill a shallow hole in what remains of the handle and open it up with an easy-out. Turning that butst disk under pressure may be a bit difficult. Maybe a 1/2 inch drive braker bar will handle it OK.
 
Mo2vation:
1) take it to my LDS, have them do all this and pay the extortion as an idiot tax as I've clearly demonstrated I'm a ham-fisted clown that can't be trusted around large, heavy metal objects
Why would it be extortion? If you don't have the stones to do it don't they deserve whatever they charge for it?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

Back
Top Bottom