Burst disc nut screwed in enough?

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JahJahwarrior

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I'm just curious, on this Scubapro manifold I just picked up to double up some aluminum 100s, the left post burst disc nut looks like it's screwed in all the way. The right one is perhaps a mm less screwed in? I can just barely make out 1 thread, whereas on the other one, no thread is visible.

The tanks currently have about 2100 psi in them. Can I just grab a wrench and tighten the right post burst disc nut thing in some more? It's not leaking that I know of (didn't observe any bubbles in the water and don't hear hissing...) but it's bothering the OCD side of me that it might could be tighter. Should I just not worry about it?
 
The burst disk should be properly torqued. Look in your maintenance manual for the particular valve you have and find out how many inch pounds that it should be torqued.

That is the reason that proper training acccompanies proper maintenance.
 
I'm just curious, on this Scubapro manifold I just picked up to double up some aluminum 100s, the left post burst disc nut looks like it's screwed in all the way. The right one is perhaps a mm less screwed in? I can just barely make out 1 thread, whereas on the other one, no thread is visible.

The tanks currently have about 2100 psi in them. Can I just grab a wrench and tighten the right post burst disc nut thing in some more? It's not leaking that I know of (didn't observe any bubbles in the water and don't hear hissing...) but it's bothering the OCD side of me that it might could be tighter. Should I just not worry about it?


If you over tighten it as you are suggesting, you can easily damage the disk and perhaps even the screw. If it is not leaking you should leave it alone.

If it needs service you could learn how to properly service it or take to someone who know how to service it. Service on a burst disk is not normally done with 2100 psi in the tank.
 
I agree. If it were not tight enough it would be leaking so I would not worry about it.

In the event you decide you just have to worry about it and feel the need to retorque things, you need to just go ahead and replace the burst discs. (drain the tanks first). Bust disc assemblies tend to get very comfortable where they are at and more often than not changing the orientation of anything in the system just makes them more likely to fail.

So leave them alone or replace them completely but do not screw around with them while the tanks are full or doing anything half way in between.
 
It would probabaly be worthwhile to pull it out and make sure that someone didn't put something in there other than a burst disk. When properly installed, the nut head should be almost flush...you should not see any threads. If it is sticking out (you can see threads) AND it is sealed, someone has put a slug or something else in there.

Phil Ellis
 
Alright, I won't touch it :) When I take them in for a fill, I might just buy two new discs and replace them fast after draining the tanks.

Thanks!
 
Do you have a torque wrench?
 
Alright, I won't touch it :) When I take them in for a fill, I might just buy two new discs and replace them fast after draining the tanks.

Thanks!


I'm guessing from your original post you bought a used manifold?

Replacing the burst disks yourself should be really simple, but since you'll need to take the tanks in for a fill anyway and need to purchace 2 new burst disks, why not simply have the dive shop install the 2 new ones when you have the tanks filled? That way if there is anything unusual going on they can diagnose it right it on the spot. You may spend a few bucks to have them do it, but it would seem to be worth the peace of mind.

Just my 2 cents. Good luck!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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