Buoyancy Tips...

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

I have a trim question or buoyancy question...I'm not sure the proper term. After reading many of the threads here, it seemed to me that many advise a slightly head down profile or flat, not foot down profile. With a little tweaking and feedback from my buddy I found I could maintain a slightly head down profile, but I'm not clear as to why I should do this. I found this position extremely uncomfortable on my neck (have neck & back problems to begin with) and on one dive my head kept hitting the first stage. Why is this important? What's wrong with being flat or even slighly fin down? I also found that with the head down profile my exhaust would rise up my underside, presumably getting caught in the bc until I shook the bubbles loose. Am I catching enough to change my buoyancy, or is that a non-issue?
 
You don't want to be head down, but you don't want to be feet down, for sure. The major reasons lie in the physics of the kick. If your feet are pointing down, then, when you kick, two things happen: You're propelled upwards, and the water from your fins goes DOWNWARDS into the silt, creating a dust cloud behind you.

Kicking yourself upwards with every fin stroke makes you have to dive negative, so you won't constantly head shallower. Thus, any time you are not kicking, you are sinking, which makes it impossible to hover to look at any thing.

Being horizontal means you can dive neutral, hover when you want to, and keep your fin "exhaust" out of the bottom.

If your head is banging into your first stage, you may have your tank up a little too high.
 
paradicio:
....

I can lie down on the bottom of the pool with my BC completely empty, and add small amounts of air until I begin to float a bit. The problem is, once I begin to float a bit it’s off to the surface I go… I seem to go from negatively buoyant to floaty man in no time flat, I can’t seem to find the happy medium.

So…if any of you vets out there have some buoyancy tips for a newbie I would very much appreciate it!

Thanks!

I'd suggest the following:

When you are on the bottom and adding small amounts of air, don't add enough to get off the bottom. Instead:

-Add a bit of air, breath in deeply and slowly.
-Still not moving, breath out all the way, add another bit of air and breath in deeply and slowly.
- Repeat until a breath gets you off the bottom.
- As soon as you move a bit, breath out to slow you ascent.

Remember that it takes time to see the change due to small volume changes. It may take you a few cycles to get it, but that should help.

If it's good enough to get 2 divers wearing doubles off the bottom of the ocean in a rescue scenario, then it should be useful in the pool ;)

Best of luck.

Bjorn
 
Thanks everyone! Lots of good advice in this thread. :)

Can't wait to get in the water and put some of this to work!

Weather permitting we'll be in the ocean in catalina on the 22 of this month, so I'll get some saltwater experience there as well. I really can't wait (did I say that already?)!
 
TSandM:
Joe Talavera gave me a real good concept for breath/BC buoyancy control. He said, "There's only a small window -- maybe plus or minus two feet or so -- where your breath can stop what's happening. Get beyond that, and you should go directly to venting/adding air, because you simply don't have the volume to do the job with your lungs." For me, that window is VERY small, so I have to stay extremely alert to variations in my depth in order to avoid having to correct with my wing.
You must be referring to the situation where you have to have a lot of air in your BCD because you have a set of doubles full of air, where you have on a thick wetsuit or a drysuit, and you are shallow. The combination of those 3 factors all add up.

In most other circumstances, the 5 or so pounds of buoyancy change (probably still 4 pounds or so for a petite little lady) in the lungs will compensate for quite a bit of change in depth.

You might try some direct experiments to really determine the sort of limits of buoyancy control by lungs --- just simply go to 20', get neutral with lungs at a particular point, and then go down to 30' and see how much more air you need to inhale to get neutral again. Obviously, you don't need to do this all on the same breath.

In practice, control of my buoyancy is an automatic, non-thinking change in my breathing pattern. I add or remove air from my BCD when my breathing pattern gets skewed to one end or the other.

Or to put it another way, I change my breathing pattern to control my depth; and I adjust the BCD to change my breathing pattern.

Charlie Allen
 
Here ye go...

Fine Tuning Buoyancy
© 2002 G.R. Murchison, CDR USN(Ret); SSI DCSI

You recall from open water training that buoyancy is determined by the relationship of the weight of an object to the weight of the water it displaces when it is submerged. If more water is displaced than the object weighs, it will be positively buoyant and will rise or float; if less water is displaced than the object weighs the object will sink. As Scuba Divers we generally seek to achieve that balanced state where we displace the same weight of water as our own weight – neutral buoyancy. This is easy to understand, but not so easy to achieve. Let’s take a little closer look at neutral buoyancy and why it is so elusive.

Neutral Buoyancy isn’t!

Theoretically, all we need do to achieve neutral buoyancy is to get our weight equal to the water we displace – simple… and impossible!

(1) We cannot get our weight exactly right because the amount of water we displace is always changing, because we’re breathing. As we inhale we increase our volume, displacing more water. Since our weight remains the same we become more buoyant; likewise we become less buoyant when we exhale.
(2) Neutral buoyancy is an unstable state. Even if we were to stop breathing (don’t!), neutral buoyancy would be fleeting. Let’s assume we could actually get perfectly neutral for a moment. So long as we and the water are perfectly still and static we’re fine, but any displacement will upset the balance. If we are displaced upwards, the air in our BC and in our body cavities will expand, and we will become positively buoyant, thus tending to continue upwards. And as we continue upwards those gases will continue to expand and we will get ever more positively buoyant, until we reach the surface or something ruptures. Likewise if we are displaced downward the gasses in the BC and body will be compressed; we will become less buoyant and we will sink at an ever increasing rate until we reach the bottom.


Controlling instability

Much like balancing a stick vertically on a finger, maintaining neutral buoyancy requires constant adjustments.
First, let’s consider the options of the closed circuit rebreather (CCR) diver. Since the CCR diver inhales and exhales into a counterlung, there is no net change in volume – and so no change in buoyancy – due to simply breathing. Therefore the CCR diver must counter any vertical displacement with fin action rather than breathing. This is both a blessing and a curse, for while breathing doesn’t start the CCR diver on an ascent or descent, neither can it be used to start or stop one when desired.
In open circuit (OC) Scuba we have the additional change in buoyancy as we breathe to deal with as well as the natural instability of neutral buoyancy itself. However, the fact that breathing changes our buoyancy can work to our advantage, because if we pay attention to the timing of our breathing it can actually provide most if not all the corrective force to keep us at constant depth in the water. Let’s examine the dynamics of a displacement from neutral to see how to use breathing for fine tuning buoyancy control. As a starting point, let’s assume we have achieved perfect neutral buoyancy with half a breath in our lungs. If we are displaced upwards, we will rise until we provide a counterforce to stop the rise. So, we begin to exhale as we start upward, and continue to exhale until our upward movement has stopped. Remembering that an object in motion will remain in motion until a force in the opposite direction is applied, we must have exhaled enough to have applied a downward force – we have become negatively buoyant - to get our ascent to stop, and so if we do nothing at this point we will begin to sink. And as we sink gasses in our body and BC will compress and we’ll continue to sink unless we do something to counter it – inhale. But this “exhale while rising, inhale while sinking” doesn’t keep us stationary does it? To achieve near stability, we must get back to neutral as soon as we stop at a desired depth, so it goes something like this… As we are descending we inhale to stop the descent; as we come to a stop, we must immediately exhale to get neutral, because in order to stop the descent we had to get positive. Continuing to exhale, we will eventually become negative again, and need to inhale before a descent can start, then exhale before an ascent can start, and so forth. With a great deal of practice, we will find that we can breathe slowly and deeply without ever making any noticeable vertical excursions at all! Now we are fish!


Using the Buoyancy Compensator

Aside from flotation on the surface, the BC should be used only to compensate for the changes in buoyancy experienced due to exposure suit compression with depth change and gas consumption during the dive. From our discussion of buoyancy above, adding air to a BC to initiate an ascent or removing air to initiate a descent when we are already neutral is totally unnecessary, as any displacement upwards or downwards will continue unless corrected. During ascent it may be necessary to vent some gas from the BC to maintain the rate of ascent we want, and to vent a bit more when reaching a new shallower depth to re-establish neutral. Likewise, during descent we may need to add some gas to maintain the desired rate of descent, and add a bit more when we reach our desired depth to re-establish neutral there.


Proper Weighting

Weighting should take into account the gas to be used during the dive. Since we want to be able to make very precisely controlled ascents, and safety and decompression stops in open water without the aid of any down-line or anchor line at the end of the dive, we must carry the weight of the gas we’re going to use at the beginning of the dive to assure we can achieve neutral buoyancy at the end of the dive. Nitrox or air weighs, on average, about .08 pounds per cubic foot. With an Aluminum 80, for example, starting a dive at 3000 psi and ending it at 500 psi, we use 64.5 CF, or about 5 pounds of gas during the dive, and we’ll need to carry that five pounds in extra lead along from the beginning of the dive.
Remember that salt water weighs about 102.5% what fresh water does, so we displace about 2.5% more water by weight in salt water what we displace in fresh water. We must therefore compensate at the rate of about 2½ pounds per 100 pounds total weight (our body and all our gear) when we move from one to another. For example, if I am correctly weighted carrying 14 pounds of lead in salt water, and I weigh 240 pounds with all my gear on, for fresh water I would need to remove about 6 pounds, and my proper weighting would be carrying 8 pounds of lead.

Rick
 
On a similar note regarding buoyancy issues ...

I'm enjoying my drysuit experience so far (3 dives) but the buoyancy issue seems more complicated. I carried 32 lbs. of weight (I am 185 lbs at 6 ft.) last week in salt with my 7 mil drysuit, etc., and initially had some trouble descending. Part of my problem is the adjustment of my exhaust valve on the suit. I can spin the valve one and a half full turns from open to closed. It's a shoulder valve so it's harder to tell how much air is escaping at a given depth. I have been keeping it nearly fully open so far and tap air in as I descend.

Last dive at 90 ft. I had some buoyancy trouble at the end of the dive - I was too heavy and adding air to the suit didn't seem to help. Perhaps the exhaust valve needed to be closed down more? For all I know the air I was adding on my chest valve was running out the exhaust valve at depth? I ended up using my BCD to add buoyancy to complete the dive. I'm diving Saturday and will try closing down the exhaust valve further but can drysuit divers comment on changing the exhaust valve during the dive and whether I should need to do that?

Thanks.
 
Rick, beautiful essay on buoyancy control. And when are we going to see the matching piece on situational awareness? :D

Charlie, I totally agree with you that I control my buoyancy with my breathing, and use my wing to adjust my breathing. But when you are doing ascents, or other skills, and begin to lose your position, there is only so much deviation that you can compensate for with lungs (and for me, it's not much) before you have to adjust the air in other buoyancy compensating devices. This may WELL be related to diving doubles and doing much of the dive quite negative with significant compensation. I just know that, when Joe told us that, it made immediate intuitive sense, and has been part of the key for me to manage crisp and prompt ascents with accurate stops.
 
Oregon Duck:
On a similar note regarding buoyancy issues ...

I'm enjoying my drysuit experience so far (3 dives) but the buoyancy issue seems more complicated. I carried 32 lbs. of weight (I am 185 lbs at 6 ft.) last week in salt with my 7 mil drysuit, etc., and initially had some trouble descending. Part of my problem is the adjustment of my exhaust valve on the suit. I can spin the valve one and a half full turns from open to closed. It's a shoulder valve so it's harder to tell how much air is escaping at a given depth. I have been keeping it nearly fully open so far and tap air in as I descend.

Last dive at 90 ft. I had some buoyancy trouble at the end of the dive - I was too heavy and adding air to the suit didn't seem to help. Perhaps the exhaust valve needed to be closed down more? For all I know the air I was adding on my chest valve was running out the exhaust valve at depth? I ended up using my BCD to add buoyancy to complete the dive. I'm diving Saturday and will try closing down the exhaust valve further but can drysuit divers comment on changing the exhaust valve during the dive and whether I should need to do that?

Thanks.
The drysuit can be used as a redundant, but should not be used as a primary buoyancy compensator. Add or remove gas to the drysuit to prevent squeeze and to retain loft in your underwear; use the BC for buoyancy compensation. In other words, drysuit inflation is a comfort issue, and the BC is used to compensate for buoyancy changes due to suit compression and/or drysuit inflation. If you'll think of their relationship that way, life will be easier.
Buy a steel tank and jettison some of that weight :)
Rick
(P.S. As a matter of technique I generally leave the shoulder valve pretty much in the full open position except when on the surface and specifically wanting the drysuit to hold extra gas and act as additional flotation)
 
TSandM:
... And when are we going to see the matching piece on situational awareness? :D
Got me! I forgot! Grumble, grumble... ok... I'll get on it... really...
Rick
 

Back
Top Bottom