Brinyte DIV10 "3000 Lumen" Canister light Review
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I suspect the batteties still made contact even if the body was partially unscrewed. No batteries did not leak and tgey were still charged 80%. I suspect some electrolisys happened there because of the residual currents. So always remove batteries at the end of day and wash away all the seawater.
Here is the light at -40 on a Russian Maliutka submarine. This is Black Sea with less than 2 m visibility with 6 degree water. Light lasted all dive (65 mis) at full power. Batteries were 70 % full after dive.
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That looks like a lot more than 2m viz. Maybe it was just a really wide angle camera?
My div10 (wide) just hit 1000hrs.
Observations:
Quite bright on full, mixed brightness use fine for 4hr dives, didn't try burn time tests recently.
Design weaknesses: (early revision)
Wire too stiff. Broke internally twice and showing stress.
Magnetic switch intermittently useless after 400 hrs.
Long canisters is prone to being the way.
Goodman style handle bolts needed replaced with flush mounting smaller washers.
Orings due for replacing(spare set included in the kit)
Threads still ok but seem prone to wear
Stock batteries reducing burn time now.
Cold water (suspected) triggers low voltage lipo cutoff circuitry if batteries not warmed predive.
I had it fail me during a dive 5 times with the various issues mentioned.
At 17 cents per hour it's good value. (Not counting solder, lube and bench time) and has been used as a cave primary, video light and fill light for photography (becomes useful as a flash replacement at 30ft depth in sunny Caribbean clarity water)
Due for a nicer light.
Cameron
Observations:
Quite bright on full, mixed brightness use fine for 4hr dives, didn't try burn time tests recently.
Design weaknesses: (early revision)
Wire too stiff. Broke internally twice and showing stress.
Magnetic switch intermittently useless after 400 hrs.
Long canisters is prone to being the way.
Goodman style handle bolts needed replaced with flush mounting smaller washers.
Orings due for replacing(spare set included in the kit)
Threads still ok but seem prone to wear
Stock batteries reducing burn time now.
Cold water (suspected) triggers low voltage lipo cutoff circuitry if batteries not warmed predive.
I had it fail me during a dive 5 times with the various issues mentioned.
At 17 cents per hour it's good value. (Not counting solder, lube and bench time) and has been used as a cave primary, video light and fill light for photography (becomes useful as a flash replacement at 30ft depth in sunny Caribbean clarity water)
Due for a nicer light.
Cameron
vitaly
Contributor
I need to replace a circuit board. Does anybody have any experience with brinyte customer service?
TheCoolBeans
Contributor
I've used my Div10 Brinyte torch for over 50hrs mainly in cold freshwater and up until yesterday it performed faultlessly...
Sadly though I've had to effect a repair today to mend a break inside the cable.
The break was right inside/against the gland on the head and caused an intermittent fault where unless the cable was held at an angle it would cut out.
It was a fairly easy fault to diagnose and actually pretty straightforward to fix...
A big 40-45mm Adjustable spanner was needed to open the back of the head.
A Dremel tool with burring bit was needed to dig out a huge 'bung' of resin used to make the back of the head waterproof.
Cable was easily snipped and then drilled out to ensure a clean entry for the now slightly shorter cable.
I mixed a small pot of Epoxy Resin and poured it into the back of the head.
Re-soldered the two cables to the LED, tested and checked ok.
Just letting the whole thing dry off overnight and will test it underwater tomorrow but I expect it to perform just fine.
Having the cable slightly shorter is probably going to be a good thing as they are a bit too long anyway in my opinion.
If the cable needed re terminating at the battery end I'm not quite sure it would be as simple.(?)
Sadly though I've had to effect a repair today to mend a break inside the cable.
The break was right inside/against the gland on the head and caused an intermittent fault where unless the cable was held at an angle it would cut out.
It was a fairly easy fault to diagnose and actually pretty straightforward to fix...
A big 40-45mm Adjustable spanner was needed to open the back of the head.
A Dremel tool with burring bit was needed to dig out a huge 'bung' of resin used to make the back of the head waterproof.
Cable was easily snipped and then drilled out to ensure a clean entry for the now slightly shorter cable.
I mixed a small pot of Epoxy Resin and poured it into the back of the head.
Re-soldered the two cables to the LED, tested and checked ok.
Just letting the whole thing dry off overnight and will test it underwater tomorrow but I expect it to perform just fine.
Having the cable slightly shorter is probably going to be a good thing as they are a bit too long anyway in my opinion.
If the cable needed re terminating at the battery end I'm not quite sure it would be as simple.(?)
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vitaly
Contributor
Nice job, SammyW. I probably need to do the same. My cable is OK but it's too long and I need to make it shorter. You are right the battery top has much less room inside and removing resin there might be tricky.
Yes I've witnessed this with my div10
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