Brinyte DIV10 "3000 Lumen" Canister light Review

[scubastingray]

It comes with the handle not assembled, so that was a user error on my end for sure.
I'll work up the courage and get the time to crack open the light in the next few days.

I can do some more standardized hotspot measurements.

 

[the_dragon_no1]

Got mine today. Looks good. Dhl express from hong kong = 2.5 days shipping on my doorstep

Light looks good, good o-rings, the screw setup is crap.. got it working, but will change them out asap! The long ones for the handle itself are to short/smal to get a realy good permanent lock on the lock washers. . Will be swaped for stainless steel ones with nylon lock nuts.. The ones that fix the handle to light head are a tiny bit to long, so i added washers between handle and light houseing, but they will fit without reversing the baseplate, its just very tight for the boltheads to get in there.. will swap them aswell.
The canister i think is good size, smaller than i thought. . Will be a good fit DIR wise on my wing waist belt.

 

[scubastingray]

Cool, let me know how you like it. Someone else with the DIV09 mentioned that the biggest failure point he's noticed in the 25 dives he used it is the cable glands. Apparently they are plastic glands and the housing is obviously aluminum, so loctite is of no use. He replaced them with these:
3 Pcs M12 3 0 6 5MMM Stainless Steel Waterproof Joint Cable Gland | eBay

so I may try that.


Also, I think those split-lock washers are supposed to be used with the screws connect the head of the light to the plate, and you are just supposed to use the bolts and nuts alone to connect the plate to the handle. I agree it isn't what I would choose, so I'll probably get some locking nuts and/or longer bolts for the side if I need them.


Where did you end up ordering yours from?

 

[the_dragon_no1]

Allrigt.. yeah i realy realy wanna take apart the glands, but in fear to break them, I'll wait untill i have spare ones.. just to be shure. . Locktite / or better plumber "locktite" will work fine despite it being plastic/alu
I have used plastic glands on other light projects with success, but the are not "the best".. one thing im seeing is the cable itself being abit hard on the outside, so in the futere i might change that one also.

Changed all bolts and nuts to custom stainless steel ones today, much better, feels much more secure now!

Got mine from brinytes account on Alibaba..
200$ including dhl express shipping.

---------- Post added September 12th, 2014 at 07:23 PM ----------

btw the glands are different size, the one on canister is M12, and on light head m16 !

 

[scubastingray]

Good call on the glands, I guess they are different between the DIV09 vs DIV10 head.

If you end up tearing yours apart before I get to it let us know if this light has the pillbox issues and anything else you notice.

 

[the_dragon_no1]

Shure will post it here then

 

[Bom]

What battery do you use for div10? flat top or button top? Thanks,

 

[the_dragon_no1]

Think you can use both

 

[scubastingray]

What battery do you use for div10? flat top or button top? Thanks,

I've always used button tops, and I don't think flats would work. The contacts in the light itself protrude enough flat tops would work, but you'd still need battery 1's positive terminal to connect to the negative of battery two, and so on. The vast majority of flat-tops don't connect when laid end-to-end in series.

 

[Bom]

thanks, and does this light work with protected batteries?